Maverick_997

the past few days the car has been running pretty good with a little miss around 3k rpms and it was getting worse throughout the RPM range the longer the car ran. Now the past few days it would run and just shut off after about 30 seconds-5 min of running.

Today it wont start at all so i read through the opti sticky and through shoeboxs' site. So far I have tested the coil and am getting 7.89k ohms at all 4 terminals. I just got done testing the white wire that runs into the ICM connector and I got a constant 1.64 VAC for about 5 seconds before my battery died and could not crank the car anymore. oh yeah i also tested ternimals A and D on the ICM connector and got 11.78 VDC on both.

from what i understand this says to me I have a bad ICM right?

help me understand if I am incorrect please.

Happy Holidays

The Untouchable

i had the exact to the T symptoms as you and replaced my opti and mine are gone, i had the miss at and around 3k and got worse as i drove it , replaced my opti no more misses nothing ,runs like a top now

Maverick_997

with 145k on the stock opti i guess its about time i changed it, i was hoping icm, much less work than the opti.

crazypurgatory

Just make sure you put some lock tight on the rotor button.

Maverick_997

will do, any other tips as far as installation goes? btw just ordered from thepartsladi on ebay im sure it will take a while to get here with the holidays and all

Guest47904

Here's a stupid question.....

Since the car doesn't run anyway. Why wouldn't you at least take off the cap and rotor to look inside before you placed the order? Wouldn't mind having a dollar for everyone on this board that replaced the opti and it didn't fix their problem.

For all I know my car had the original opti on it from 94. But I simply replaced the cap and rotor cause I know the problems associated with replacing the whole thing. Miss alignment (beauty pageant contestant) leaky seal the list goes on and on. When the whole unit grenades, then I'll replace it.

I will tell you this. Don't be surprised when you see half the ***** gone from the bearing inside the back of the water pump and. The drive collar stuck(corroded) on drive shaft going to the pump. The pump you can get from cheap auto parts stores but not the collar.

Injuneer

And another "have you scanned it" response.

Appears you're all set to start throwing parts at it, and you've done nothing in the way of diagnosis.

Maverick_997

huh? my first post is about diagnosis..

my scanner [ethos] does not communicate with the car, the car has great fuel pressure upon prime and holds steady around 35-40psi IIRC and I can smell fuel while cranking. When it was running before it crapped out I was getting intermittent misfires when I connected a timing gun to my coil wire. Wires and plugs have about 5k on them, opti, icm, and coil are stock.

Injuneer

You "diagnosis" led you to your ICM. But you're going to replace your Opti?

I'll leave you alone... you apparently have all the info you need.

Good luck.

Maverick_997

thanks I'll update when it runs (knock on wood)

moparman

If your scan tool is not communicating with the port, check the cig lighter fuse.

Maverick_997

runs again, borrowed a icm from a friend and it started.

new problem now, the car will start if i crank it for around 15-20 seconds. fuel pressure is fine sticking at 40psi while cranking. I hooked up a timing light to the coil wire and i get no spark up until 1 second before the car starts. If i turn the car off and immmediately start it again the car will fire right up, but if it sits for any longer that 30 seconds it will repeat the 15-20 second long cranking. car runs great after started with an occasional miss during idle but no missing at all during acceleration like before. sometimes during after a long start up it will idle high at 2200 rpm and will come down to 800 rpm after about 30 seconds. going to check for voltage at the white wire at the icm connector again this time with a charged battery.

Maverick_997

Just tested white wire while cranking. It doesnt start receiving a signal for about 10 seconds from when you start cranking. does it make sense the opti would do something like this? what other tests should i do from here?

Maverick_997

This came as kind of a surprise but now I can connect my scan tool to my pcm after I installed the tuned pcm I got from Ion at madz28.com. I got the following codes

27 egr electrical fault
26 quad driver module 1 fault
16 low resolution pulse failure
41 EST open
36 High resoluter pulse failure
32 EGR system problem

Injuneer

Use Shoebox's code list. 93 was the last year with the quad driver modules. Your 94 doesn't have them.

http://shbox.com/1/Dtcs.htm