Any 396 stroker people in here??
#1
Any 396 stroker people in here??
Thinkin of going the stroker route with the Eagle 396 kit. Anybody else out there with one? If so what all stuff did you use(heads,cam,etc.)and what kinda hp did your combo make?
The following is what I've got planed so far:
PT#12113
Stroke 3.875 Rod 6.00
SRP Forged aluminum Flat top Pistons w/-7cc
11.2 compression Ration w/64cc heads
File fit rings(Plasma ductile iron top rings,reverse twist 2nd ring,standard oil rings)
"ESP" Forged 4340 Steel Crankshaft,Pin Fit 4340 H-Beam 3-dconnecting rods
Clevite 77 race rod and main bearings
Buddy that owns the local speed shop is getting this for me for $1550 then going to "Jungle"Jims machine shop dropping $600 there to get the machine work to the block done and some assy
I guess the LT4 intake is the only upgrade we have for our motors as far as intakes go??
So I guess I'd have to get some LT4 styled heads,AFR's maybe
The following is what I've got planed so far:
PT#12113
Stroke 3.875 Rod 6.00
SRP Forged aluminum Flat top Pistons w/-7cc
11.2 compression Ration w/64cc heads
File fit rings(Plasma ductile iron top rings,reverse twist 2nd ring,standard oil rings)
"ESP" Forged 4340 Steel Crankshaft,Pin Fit 4340 H-Beam 3-dconnecting rods
Clevite 77 race rod and main bearings
Buddy that owns the local speed shop is getting this for me for $1550 then going to "Jungle"Jims machine shop dropping $600 there to get the machine work to the block done and some assy
I guess the LT4 intake is the only upgrade we have for our motors as far as intakes go??
So I guess I'd have to get some LT4 styled heads,AFR's maybe
#2
Plan wisely.
You have a 64cc head figured into your build (static compression). Is that what you plan to use?
Need to base your calcs around dynamic compression vs static. Do a search in Advanced Tech for more on dynamic compression. Static is still important... but you'll see where I'm coming from once you understand dynamic.
The combination looks ok, good components and hopefully the machine work will be top notch. The Eagle rods are a little on the heavy side but for a lower revving 396 they aren't a bad choice at all.
I don't have any problems with any of that. My primary concern is in heads and induction.... bottom end parts are just parts. As long as the tolerances are good, the engine will live a happy life.
The question here is, what are your goals? If 420-450rwhp is where you're going, then that's easy enough to do without anything out of the ordinary. If you want to go closer to 500 or better, then you are going to need a good deal of cylinder head and induction work to get there.
The 396 can make for a nice dependable motor at 420-450rwhp. Not too tough to get there either.
-Mindgame
You have a 64cc head figured into your build (static compression). Is that what you plan to use?
Need to base your calcs around dynamic compression vs static. Do a search in Advanced Tech for more on dynamic compression. Static is still important... but you'll see where I'm coming from once you understand dynamic.
The combination looks ok, good components and hopefully the machine work will be top notch. The Eagle rods are a little on the heavy side but for a lower revving 396 they aren't a bad choice at all.
I don't have any problems with any of that. My primary concern is in heads and induction.... bottom end parts are just parts. As long as the tolerances are good, the engine will live a happy life.
The question here is, what are your goals? If 420-450rwhp is where you're going, then that's easy enough to do without anything out of the ordinary. If you want to go closer to 500 or better, then you are going to need a good deal of cylinder head and induction work to get there.
The 396 can make for a nice dependable motor at 420-450rwhp. Not too tough to get there either.
-Mindgame
#3
I'm machining a 396 for a customer right now. He is using the Eagle crank/rods and some custom JE pistons. He started out with some KB hypereutectic pistons but in figuring out compression he used 64cc instead of the 53cc he has in his LT1 heads and that brings up the compression considerably. If you get the AFR heads you can have them make the chambers whatever size you want so using a shelf stock flat top/valve relief piston is still possible for you. But if you run a stock LT1 head then you will nee a pretty good size dish to stay under 11:1.
Also be careful if you are clearancing the block yourself. LOTS of material to remove for this setup and there IS water by the pan rail where you grind.
Also be careful if you are clearancing the block yourself. LOTS of material to remove for this setup and there IS water by the pan rail where you grind.
#5
Thanx for the replies and keep them coming
As far as a goal goes,I want to runmid to low 7's in the 1/8th(that's the only tracks available) on motor and 6.something on a 150 shot of gas. And still be as reliable as it is now.
I will have'ta read up on the static vs dynamic compression. I looked thru some the recent post but didn't find anything yet. Guess I'll have to search from the archives.
I'll be buying some type of aftermarket or all ready ported heads since my motor is going to be removed and saved just in case the car ever does became a collecters item.lol
As far as a goal goes,I want to runmid to low 7's in the 1/8th(that's the only tracks available) on motor and 6.something on a 150 shot of gas. And still be as reliable as it is now.
I will have'ta read up on the static vs dynamic compression. I looked thru some the recent post but didn't find anything yet. Guess I'll have to search from the archives.
I'll be buying some type of aftermarket or all ready ported heads since my motor is going to be removed and saved just in case the car ever does became a collecters item.lol
#7
Originally posted by Revolutionary
. . .Also be careful if you are clearancing the block yourself. LOTS of material to remove for this setup and there IS water by the pan rail where you grind.
. . .Also be careful if you are clearancing the block yourself. LOTS of material to remove for this setup and there IS water by the pan rail where you grind.
Lunati Pro Mod and Oliver rods have alot more clearance in that area.
Mike
#9
The I beam rods are not too bad on the clearancing but the H beams end up needing more than .100 extra material removed because of the bolt's size and location. I have a fixture that I made on a lathe and ran a bolt into the side to simulate where the clearancing needs to be. I believe you can actually buy something like that now from Powerhouse or Proform.
#11
FACT: I have a 3.75 stroke Eagle crank, Eagle 5.7 H-beams with ARP2000 bolts, '95 LT1 block and oil pan.
FACT: I had to remove ALOT of material from the block and dent the pan for clearance. The rod bolt physically hit the oil pan and the engine would not rotate.
Mike
FACT: I had to remove ALOT of material from the block and dent the pan for clearance. The rod bolt physically hit the oil pan and the engine would not rotate.
Mike
#12
I also have a 383 with an egale crank & h beam rods with the L19 bolt upgrade. The block had to have a lot of clearance for the bolts. And the pan also. You can somewhat see how much had to be done. If you go to my car domain site in the sig and the pic are on page 2
I dont think you will be able to run the L19 bolts if you go with a 396
I dont think you will be able to run the L19 bolts if you go with a 396
#13
Originally posted by amean94ta
No i do have the H beams. I am sean from krs if you ever heard of me. As in krs from erie pa
No i do have the H beams. I am sean from krs if you ever heard of me. As in krs from erie pa
oo u think u r so famus ha . i can beat u with my 94 lt1 convertable but wait till i finish putting it together.
#14
[QUOTE]Originally posted by engineermike
FACT: I have a 3.75 stroke Eagle crank, Eagle 5.7 H-beams with ARP2000 bolts, '95 LT1 block and oil pan.
FACT: I had to remove ALOT of material from the block and dent the pan for clearance. The rod bolt physically hit the oil pan and the engine would not rotate.
Mike [/QUOTE
FACT:Well if you had of used the Oliver rod cap screws in your rods and resized them,you would not have had to touch the pan rails or pan!!!!!!
(FACT)There is more than one way to do a stroker.
FACT: I have a 3.75 stroke Eagle crank, Eagle 5.7 H-beams with ARP2000 bolts, '95 LT1 block and oil pan.
FACT: I had to remove ALOT of material from the block and dent the pan for clearance. The rod bolt physically hit the oil pan and the engine would not rotate.
Mike [/QUOTE
FACT:Well if you had of used the Oliver rod cap screws in your rods and resized them,you would not have had to touch the pan rails or pan!!!!!!
(FACT)There is more than one way to do a stroker.
#15
Well if you had of used the Oliver rod cap screws in your rods and resized them,you would not have had to touch the pan rails or pan!!!!!!