LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Any 396 stroker people in here??

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Old 07-14-2004, 02:37 PM
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Any 396 stroker people in here??

Thinkin of going the stroker route with the Eagle 396 kit. Anybody else out there with one? If so what all stuff did you use(heads,cam,etc.)and what kinda hp did your combo make?
The following is what I've got planed so far:
PT#12113
Stroke 3.875 Rod 6.00
SRP Forged aluminum Flat top Pistons w/-7cc
11.2 compression Ration w/64cc heads
File fit rings(Plasma ductile iron top rings,reverse twist 2nd ring,standard oil rings)
"ESP" Forged 4340 Steel Crankshaft,Pin Fit 4340 H-Beam 3-dconnecting rods
Clevite 77 race rod and main bearings
Buddy that owns the local speed shop is getting this for me for $1550 then going to "Jungle"Jims machine shop dropping $600 there to get the machine work to the block done and some assy
I guess the LT4 intake is the only upgrade we have for our motors as far as intakes go??
So I guess I'd have to get some LT4 styled heads,AFR's maybe
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Old 07-14-2004, 03:26 PM
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Plan wisely.

You have a 64cc head figured into your build (static compression). Is that what you plan to use?
Need to base your calcs around dynamic compression vs static. Do a search in Advanced Tech for more on dynamic compression. Static is still important... but you'll see where I'm coming from once you understand dynamic.

The combination looks ok, good components and hopefully the machine work will be top notch. The Eagle rods are a little on the heavy side but for a lower revving 396 they aren't a bad choice at all.
I don't have any problems with any of that. My primary concern is in heads and induction.... bottom end parts are just parts. As long as the tolerances are good, the engine will live a happy life.

The question here is, what are your goals? If 420-450rwhp is where you're going, then that's easy enough to do without anything out of the ordinary. If you want to go closer to 500 or better, then you are going to need a good deal of cylinder head and induction work to get there.

The 396 can make for a nice dependable motor at 420-450rwhp. Not too tough to get there either.

-Mindgame
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Old 07-14-2004, 05:24 PM
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I'm machining a 396 for a customer right now. He is using the Eagle crank/rods and some custom JE pistons. He started out with some KB hypereutectic pistons but in figuring out compression he used 64cc instead of the 53cc he has in his LT1 heads and that brings up the compression considerably. If you get the AFR heads you can have them make the chambers whatever size you want so using a shelf stock flat top/valve relief piston is still possible for you. But if you run a stock LT1 head then you will nee a pretty good size dish to stay under 11:1.

Also be careful if you are clearancing the block yourself. LOTS of material to remove for this setup and there IS water by the pan rail where you grind.
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Old 07-14-2004, 05:46 PM
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yeah just got mine running btw i only paid $1350 for the same forged kit but have fun
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Old 07-14-2004, 07:22 PM
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Thanx for the replies and keep them coming
As far as a goal goes,I want to runmid to low 7's in the 1/8th(that's the only tracks available) on motor and 6.something on a 150 shot of gas. And still be as reliable as it is now.

I will have'ta read up on the static vs dynamic compression. I looked thru some the recent post but didn't find anything yet. Guess I'll have to search from the archives.

I'll be buying some type of aftermarket or all ready ported heads since my motor is going to be removed and saved just in case the car ever does became a collecters item.lol
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Old 07-14-2004, 08:24 PM
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amean94ta,
I am going to get Eagles Forged 355 blower assembly. Where did you get that good price at.

Last edited by n2oblkz; 07-14-2004 at 08:50 PM.
 
Old 07-14-2004, 10:53 PM
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Originally posted by Revolutionary
. . .Also be careful if you are clearancing the block yourself. LOTS of material to remove for this setup and there IS water by the pan rail where you grind.
I second that. The Eagle rod bolts hang down below the crank pin more than most others. I had to remove ALOT of material in my 383 so your 396 will be worse. Also, if you use the highly recommended L19 rod bolts, the problem gets worse since the bolt heads are bigger than the crappy stock 8740's. Mine even hit the oil pan. With your increased stroke and L19 bolts, I'd be surprised if it doesn't break through to water and it will certainly hit the oil pan.

Lunati Pro Mod and Oliver rods have alot more clearance in that area.

Mike
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Old 07-15-2004, 04:52 PM
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thats not very true. Atleast not with mine. Yes i had to clearence but no more than any old school 383 stroker. and i had alot of meat left. Next spring i will build one with a 4.00 inch stroke
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Old 07-15-2004, 05:00 PM
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The I beam rods are not too bad on the clearancing but the H beams end up needing more than .100 extra material removed because of the bolt's size and location. I have a fixture that I made on a lathe and ran a bolt into the side to simulate where the clearancing needs to be. I believe you can actually buy something like that now from Powerhouse or Proform.
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Old 07-15-2004, 05:02 PM
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No i do have the H beams. I am sean from krs if you ever heard of me. As in krs from erie pa
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Old 07-15-2004, 06:03 PM
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FACT: I have a 3.75 stroke Eagle crank, Eagle 5.7 H-beams with ARP2000 bolts, '95 LT1 block and oil pan.

FACT: I had to remove ALOT of material from the block and dent the pan for clearance. The rod bolt physically hit the oil pan and the engine would not rotate.

Mike
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Old 07-15-2004, 07:56 PM
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I also have a 383 with an egale crank & h beam rods with the L19 bolt upgrade. The block had to have a lot of clearance for the bolts. And the pan also. You can somewhat see how much had to be done. If you go to my car domain site in the sig and the pic are on page 2
I dont think you will be able to run the L19 bolts if you go with a 396
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Old 07-15-2004, 08:33 PM
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Originally posted by amean94ta
No i do have the H beams. I am sean from krs if you ever heard of me. As in krs from erie pa

oo u think u r so famus ha . i can beat u with my 94 lt1 convertable but wait till i finish putting it together.
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Old 07-15-2004, 10:15 PM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by engineermike
FACT: I have a 3.75 stroke Eagle crank, Eagle 5.7 H-beams with ARP2000 bolts, '95 LT1 block and oil pan.

FACT: I had to remove ALOT of material from the block and dent the pan for clearance. The rod bolt physically hit the oil pan and the engine would not rotate.

Mike
[/QUOTE

FACT:Well if you had of used the Oliver rod cap screws in your rods and resized them,you would not have had to touch the pan rails or pan!!!!!!
(FACT)There is more than one way to do a stroker.
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Old 07-15-2004, 10:21 PM
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Well if you had of used the Oliver rod cap screws in your rods and resized them,you would not have had to touch the pan rails or pan!!!!!!
Where do you get these and how much for them? Also, how do you resize them?
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