Any 396 stroker people in here??
07-15-2004, 10:33 PM
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Baton Rouge, LA, USA
Posts: 2,743
Dude, I said:
Then, you said to me:
Hmmm. . .
Also, I really doubt a different bolt alone would totally fix the stroker clearance issues. I've built three 383's, one with stock rods, one with Oliver Pro Mod I-beams, and one with Eagle H-beams. Every one needed some clearancing to the pan rails in the block, but the Eagles needed the most by far.
Mike
Originally posted by engineermike
Lunati Pro Mod and Oliver rods have alot more clearance in that area.
Lunati Pro Mod and Oliver rods have alot more clearance in that area.
Originally posted by smokindastangs
FACT:Well if you had of used the Oliver rod cap screws in your rods and resized them,you would not have had to touch the pan rails or pan!!!!!!
(FACT)There is more than one way to do a stroker.
FACT:Well if you had of used the Oliver rod cap screws in your rods and resized them,you would not have had to touch the pan rails or pan!!!!!!
(FACT)There is more than one way to do a stroker.
Also, I really doubt a different bolt alone would totally fix the stroker clearance issues. I've built three 383's, one with stock rods, one with Oliver Pro Mod I-beams, and one with Eagle H-beams. Every one needed some clearancing to the pan rails in the block, but the Eagles needed the most by far.
Mike
Last edited by engineermike; 07-15-2004 at 10:36 PM.
07-15-2004, 10:40 PM
#17
Banned
Join Date: May 2003
Location: LA (lower Alabama)
Posts: 6,661
If you have doweled caps with capscrews,you can call Oliver rod Co. and get them.
To resize them take them to your machine shop along with Oliver's torque spects and let them resize them.You will also have less grinding on the bottom of the cyl's.(less chance of hitting water and more strength)
To resize them take them to your machine shop along with Oliver's torque spects and let them resize them.You will also have less grinding on the bottom of the cyl's.(less chance of hitting water and more strength)
07-15-2004, 10:46 PM
#18
Banned
Join Date: May 2003
Location: LA (lower Alabama)
Posts: 6,661
Originally posted by engineermike
Dude, I said:
Then, you said to me:
Hmmm. . .
Also, I really doubt a different bolt alone would totally fix the stroker clearance issues. I've built three 383's, one with stock rods, one with Oliver Pro Mod I-beams, and one with Eagle H-beams. Every one needed some clearancing to the pan rails in the block, but the Eagles needed the most by far.
Mike
Dude, I said:
Then, you said to me:
Hmmm. . .
Also, I really doubt a different bolt alone would totally fix the stroker clearance issues. I've built three 383's, one with stock rods, one with Oliver Pro Mod I-beams, and one with Eagle H-beams. Every one needed some clearancing to the pan rails in the block, but the Eagles needed the most by far.
Mike
Didn't say there was no grinding on the bottom of the cyl's,but is much less than normal,And you can take that to the bank.
I've built a few engines since the '50's also.
07-15-2004, 10:57 PM
#20
Banned
Join Date: May 2003
Location: LA (lower Alabama)
Posts: 6,661
Enough so that it should be done by someone that has done it. If you grind to much or in the wrong place you are subject to hit water.
If a pro does it and he makes a mistake then he owes you a new block.
If a pro does it and he makes a mistake then he owes you a new block.
07-16-2004, 05:12 PM
#25
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Nashville
Posts: 255
I average 3-4 383 builds per month along with the normal stuff and have yet to find an oem block that did not need clearancing. Most (not all) late model blocks do need some clearancing on the pan rails. Some only need it on one side due to core shift so it is tough to just eyeball it without either actually mocking it up or using a fixture to simulate the rod. With my fixture I can have the block done in about 45 minutes and know it will clear a 383 with H beams and I just need to go a little more for the 396 cranks. It's not really hard to do but I would probably suggest taking to a good shop that build a lot of strokers and they should not charge an arm an a leg.
btw i only paid $1350 for the same forged kit but have fun
Sooo where did you get yours??
07-17-2004, 04:16 PM
#28
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: Montville, NJ, U.S.A.
Posts: 661
396 stroker here, just fired it up yesterday for the first time, drove it a little today, LOTS of torque, way more than my previous stock bottom end cam/head setup. Parts used in the buildup in the sig.
Nick
Nick
07-18-2004, 02:17 PM
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Hickory,NC 28601
Posts: 387
Kewl,so the your 396 rolls than. So the AFR215's is a good choice for the 396's? What CC did you go with? What intake did you use? Ported?
Juat trying to get some info since I'm going into this buildup blind.
Juat trying to get some info since I'm going into this buildup blind.
07-18-2004, 03:30 PM
#30
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: Montville, NJ, U.S.A.
Posts: 661
AFR 215 RR would work great, but you will need a raised runner intake to match the heads. AFR 210's would work great, as thats what I am using. I have a welded and ported LT4 intake to match the heads. Yes, at the minimum the intake needs to be ported. I have mine welded up by the injector bungs so that when the intake was ported, the roof and the runners could be straightened out. Without the welding there will be a nice "pinch" left in the roof, and the metal is thin in that area as is.
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