dwayneellis2003

The exhaust leak that I'm talking about is the metal tube that comes out of the passenger side exhaust manifold.....It's the metal tube that comes up out of the exhaust manifold, and it has what looks like an EGR valve in the center of it, from the valve, it curls down and has a rubber hose connecting the two metal tubes together.....it's the second of the two metal tubes that I'm talking about, and it looks like it connect to something or the block itself, behind and slightly above the AC compressor. I can wiggle it around and tell that it moves enough to definitely disconnected or broken off completely from something down there. Even when I had the alternator off, I couldn't see where it went, even from under the car. I'll go Take a Pic and come back and post it.

dwayneellis2003

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/...10129-1304.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/...10129-1303.jpg

It's the line that I'm pointing to in both pictures. See where it goes down towards the AC compressor? I can't tell what the line actually connects to down there, but I know it's either broken or just disconnected. Also, I'm pretty sure I need another one of these valves anyways, because it's crimped kinda badly but not severely, at the bend by the nut that connects it into the top center of the passenger side exhaust manifold, or rather, another line and not the valve itself.

dwayneellis2003

Could my ECM possibly need to be calibrated now, because of all the changes?

Injuneer

That is the AIR supply piping. The conical piece is a check valve. There should not be any exhaust leaking out of there. If there is, the check valve is faulty, and could be causing major problems. Under some conditions, the exhaust gas passing the opening in the manifold primary can pull a vacuum, and that pulls air into the check valve. That air fools the O2 sensor into thinking the engine is running lean, and the PCM starts adding fuel the engine doesn't need.

You really need to have someone working along with you who knows the LT1 engine. I admire your efforts to learn and solve the problem yourself, but someone who knows the engine well could simplify a lot of your issues. Doing it over the 'net isn't always real effective, as can be seen by the confusion over what part you were even asking about.

dwayneellis2003

lol I know right. The problem is, I have to do this. I'm moving on monday, and so it's a rushed thing. I've got access to all the tools I could possibly need.

The exhaust isn't leaking from the check valve, I was pointing to the line itself that comes out of the check valve and goes downward. At the very bottom of that line is where the exhaust is coming out, because it's coming through the check valve and being pushed out of a line that is no longer connected to anything. I know I'm confusing lol But my question was, what does this line connect to, after it comes out of the check valve, and where, if possible, could I buy another line, or is it all one assembly with the check valve?

Injuneer

The AIR pump, on the lower part of the front of the block, driver's side pumps air into the exhaust. There is a line to the driver's exhaust manifold and a line to the passenger exhaust manifold. That is the complete system.

When I asked if there was exhaust coming out of the check valve, I guess it would have been clearer if I asked if there was exhaust coming THROUGH the check valve.

Shoebox:

http://shbox.com/1/diverters.jpg

dwayneellis2003

OK I just went and traced everything again and all I need to replace is the metal line that comes out of the exhaust manifold and connects to the check valve, and the nut is in pretty bad shape too As for all the codes, the car ran fine before I replaced the plugs and wires, and I'm pretty sure these codes are new, and they simply can't be accurate. I double checked my plug wires, and didn't unhook anything else, and I'm kinda wondering if something is going on with the ECM. The only wires I disconnected while doing the whole thing, were the alternator, plug wires, and the MAF and small sensor by it, in the air-filter line to the TB. Everything is back like it should be and all of these things couldn't have happened at once. I did change the engine and transmission oil and filters just before doing this though, and it still ran fine afterwards. But what I'm getting at is that something is making these codes show, and it isn't the sensors, and there aren't any shorts that I've found.

Yeah Injuneer, I misunderstood. I've got mechanical experience, it's the terminology that gets me, but my main is electronics. I'm only a skilled
novice-intermediate.

Injuneer

Did you read what I posted about the codes. They are mostly wrong. When you entered the incorrect engine code in the scanner, you caused the problem. It was checking a different PCM that you are running.

dwayneellis2003

Well that brightens my day, but It won't read if I do it the way I'm supposed to. The manual has the car listed and I have verified that other people can do it and with that scanner, but for some reason I just isn't working for me. I know that when the car runs now, it runs rough and idles anywhere from 800rpm-1300rpm. I was thinking about verifying the gap on all the plugs at least.

dwayneellis2003

Good News! I remembered that I have an old OTC Monitor 4000 Enhanced, and so I hooked it up and it gave me codes 25 and 95. It says 25 is Intake Air Temp High, and 95 (ABS) says Open Brake Switch Circuit.

Also, I had time to let the battery recharge, and now the car idles perfectly. I was able to clear the PCM, and once I did that, the car was idling like a champ. I recorded the live streams of the engine, transmission and ABS computers and everything looked well within it's normal ranges. It literally stayed at 950-1000RPM, surprisingly, for the 6 1/2 minutes of idle from a cold start and didn't exceed this range. The timing was 15 degrees, but didn't fluctuate at all.

Wouldn't code 25 have something to do with the IAC? Or is it the little sensor in the air intake line, by the MAF sensor? Also, the oval-shaped air intake hose going into the front-center of the throttle body, is falling apart. Any ideas where I can get a new one, or an easy fix that would suffice?

I'm thinking that code 95 is because of a faulty brake switch. I'm replacing all of the relays and fuses today anyways.

I can't find repair kits or a replacement lines that fit that exhaust manifold, for the check valve either

SnakeOiler

The metal tube coming out of the manifold that has the check valve connected to it, has been discontinued. Hit the parts classified for it, or salvage yards.

If your intake bellows is damaged, then you are pulling in unmetered air - not good. See my thread for part: https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=792397

Injuneer

Why would a code for the IAT (inlet air temp) have anything to do with the IAC (idle air control)? The IAT is the sensor in the the inlet elbow:

Courtesy of Shoebox:

http://shbox.com/1/iat.jpg

The IAC is not a sensor. Its an actuator - a small stepper motor that the PCM uses to control the idle air flow:

http://shbox.com/1/iac3.jpg

DTC 25 = Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit (signal voltage low, high temperature indicated)

High temperature = low resistance = generally, a short in the wiring or a dead sensor. Shoebox tells you how to check them:

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#ect

If you had DTC 95, thats from the EBCM system, not from the PCM. You need to differentiate between PCM, EBCM and SRS codes.

dwayneellis2003

I said that code 95 was from the ABS, not the PCM. I got THAT part right, at least. IAC was meant to be IAT. Consider it a typo.