96 WS6

I was browsing over the most recent log I took in an attempt to find out what is going wrong at the moment the knock appears... I can floor it and get no knock, but right when I shift knock comes... So say I was driving and shift at 5k to second... from looking at the log, I shift fast enough to floor it while the RPM's are still going down. That is the only time I get knock retard. I was thinking of possibly pulling more advance in the midrange so that when I shift and floor it the car will be ready. Any suggestions as to what I should ask Brian to tweak for me?

o2 volts are good at WOT, BLM's are 128 down the board, MAP is constant 1.04 at WOT (crane has its own MAP sensor for boost). I just can't figure it out.. I'm going to try race gas and see if the knock is still there in hopes that it is fake. I am looking at the log right now... air flow does some funny stuff. When I first floor it, it is constantly rising up to a max of 286.09 when I shift (early at around 4500). Then the TPS goes down to 2 the right back up to 100. Right when I floor it after the shift, it's starts heading up again. Although the RPM's are still going down a little bit (to 3250 before is starts goin up again) the air flow fluctuates a couple times... don't know why. Let me see if there is any more unusual stuff... Okay right before I shift spark advance is at 43*, then after I shift and floor it (RPM is still coming down) the spark advance is at 22*. Is that where it should be?

HELP ME RID MYSELF OF THIS KNOCK!!!! I hate the feeling when it's pulling like a beast and then I feel the retard pull me back. And the funny thing is, the knock is very erratic.... Sometimes I can mow through 1st 2nd 3rd and 4th with zero knock. Soemtimes I get 4 or 2 right when I shift... I want 0 at all times so I can floor without worrying hehe.

ChickenScreamer94

i believe it is normal to have a little knock between shifts? i am not sure on that so any correct me if i am wrong. I think i read somewhere that is normal to have some during shifts, but then agian it could of been the other way around? ANyways do you have a LT4 knock module? It may get rid of the knock it it is false. It is only 40 bucks or so

96 WS6

TTT, I'd rather have it oversensitive than undersensitive... I am going to find out if it is fake or not and if it is I will just put a desensitizer on the lt1 sensor

hvyss

Are you using a LT4 knock sensor. The LT1 sensor is very sensitive. And with running headers the sensor picks up noise from them and will pick up knock retarding the timing " been there done that" The LT4 knock sensor is not as sensitive and usally will take care of the problem. If not you can program the PCM to not read knock at all ( not a good idea) or not to read knock above a certian rpm. Bryan Herter at pcmforless.com has mine set not read any knock above 2,000 rpm's. Try the LT4 knock sensor first if that deosnt take care of it contact Bryan at his web site and he can take care of it. Bryan is the "MAN" and has very good pricing on programming and stands behind his work. Good luck
HVY SS

hvyss

Oh by the way 43 degrees of timing at WOT is kind of high. On my AFR's I run 39 degrees at WOT N/A and that is high but no knock becuase Byran Herter told me that the AFR's will take more timing than the LT1's. Most tunners including Ed Wright and Bryan Herter will tune the LT1 heads to about 36 degrees. I know some guys are running higher timing than me and getting away with it but not most. Agian good luck.
HVY SS