Anyone got an idea of why Im breaking torque arm......
03-04-2003 | 07:57 PM
#1
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 166
From: Georgia
Anyone got an idea of why Im breaking torque arm......
..... on shifts?? I could understand breaking a stock one on a launch, but on a 3-4 shift the first time and a 2-3 shift this time We thought it was because my driveshaft was too long so I had it shortened after the first one broke, and now it breaks another one?? Its ripping the end that bolts to the rear end center section off (the bolts stay in the housing, the top of the torque arm is the part that breaks). I wasnt on nitrous when this happened either time... Both just quick jumps on motor, and I let off the gas when I shifted, but I did shift really hard... One of my friends said its because my clutch grabs so hard might be what is causing it, but hell I dont know What do you guys think? Is it just time for an aftermarket torque arm or what?
03-04-2003 | 08:39 PM
#7
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,519
From: Westland, MI
Have you checked your rearend for anything acting up in there?
The reason I ask is because I broke my aftermarket torque arm in the same manner you did. I then took it into a shop because I was having some clunking coming from the rear. It turns out that my carrier was ovaled out and the gears would engage, then the slack would tighten, and then the wheels would engage. Because everything was so loose, when the wheels finally did grab it was much more of a shock than normal and exerted much more force than usual. It is believed that this in turn broke my torque arm. Just something to think about.
The reason I ask is because I broke my aftermarket torque arm in the same manner you did. I then took it into a shop because I was having some clunking coming from the rear. It turns out that my carrier was ovaled out and the gears would engage, then the slack would tighten, and then the wheels would engage. Because everything was so loose, when the wheels finally did grab it was much more of a shock than normal and exerted much more force than usual. It is believed that this in turn broke my torque arm. Just something to think about.
03-04-2003 | 09:17 PM
#8
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 166
From: Georgia
Originally posted by Birdie2000
Have you checked your rearend for anything acting up in there?
The reason I ask is because I broke my aftermarket torque arm in the same manner you did. I then took it into a shop because I was having some clunking coming from the rear. It turns out that my carrier was ovaled out and the gears would engage, then the slack would tighten, and then the wheels would engage. Because everything was so loose, when the wheels finally did grab it was much more of a shock than normal and exerted much more force than usual. It is believed that this in turn broke my torque arm. Just something to think about.
Have you checked your rearend for anything acting up in there?
The reason I ask is because I broke my aftermarket torque arm in the same manner you did. I then took it into a shop because I was having some clunking coming from the rear. It turns out that my carrier was ovaled out and the gears would engage, then the slack would tighten, and then the wheels would engage. Because everything was so loose, when the wheels finally did grab it was much more of a shock than normal and exerted much more force than usual. It is believed that this in turn broke my torque arm. Just something to think about.
03-05-2003 | 12:57 PM
#11
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Posts: 166
From: Georgia
Originally posted by Injuneer
Appears you are running a stock TA on a 12-bolt.... which one? Moser (alters TA bolt setup) or Strange (uses "stock" bolt setup)?
Have you checked pinion angle?
Appears you are running a stock TA on a 12-bolt.... which one? Moser (alters TA bolt setup) or Strange (uses "stock" bolt setup)?
Have you checked pinion angle?
03-05-2003 | 01:38 PM
#12
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,769
From: Friendswood, TX, USA
The answer to this is simple, your rear end is "twisting" or wrapping to much. The question then becomes why?
So, have you replaced all the rubber in the system? LCA's, panhard rod, trans mount, torque arm bushing, engine mounts....etc. And/or do you have a pinion snubber like this...http://store.summitracing.com/partde...?part=4276...?
The ultimate answer to this is of course to get an aftermarket torque arm.
So, have you replaced all the rubber in the system? LCA's, panhard rod, trans mount, torque arm bushing, engine mounts....etc. And/or do you have a pinion snubber like this...http://store.summitracing.com/partde...?part=4276...?
The ultimate answer to this is of course to get an aftermarket torque arm.
03-05-2003 | 03:47 PM
#14
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Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 70,852
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
I generally follow Steve Spohn's recommendation... -2deg for stock and bolt-ons, -4deg for major power adders. Steve also recommends that you use -4deg ONLY on the track, and reset to -2deg for the street. I run -3deg all the time, but my car is seldom street driven.
Since you have the Moser 12-bolt, you might want to see if the mounting points shift the TA off to the left. That could possibly cause the TA bushing to bind, and limit the ability of the TA to change length to provide for the relative rotation of the axle around the LCA and the TA. I've seen aftermarket TA's bind like that and rip the rear mount apart. Hard to understand how the stock rubber, or even a poly bushing would bind though.
Since you have the Moser 12-bolt, you might want to see if the mounting points shift the TA off to the left. That could possibly cause the TA bushing to bind, and limit the ability of the TA to change length to provide for the relative rotation of the axle around the LCA and the TA. I've seen aftermarket TA's bind like that and rip the rear mount apart. Hard to understand how the stock rubber, or even a poly bushing would bind though.
Last edited by Injuneer; 03-05-2003 at 03:55 PM.
03-05-2003 | 09:54 PM
#15
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 166
From: Georgia
Thanks for the tips guys I ordered a BMR Extreme Duty and BMR Weld-in SFCs tonight. hopefully this will solve the problem.. Would my car having true duals be limiting the movement of the TA enough to hurt it? My only suspension mods are Eibach Sportline springs, and !front sway bar. My rear sway bar end link broke (bolt broke) so I wasnt running a rear sway bar either, but thats just temporary. Any of that stuff might lead to it? Someone told me that I may not have been tightening the bolts enough.. They were very tight though, to the point they wouldnt turn anymore with a breaker bar on the ratchet.
I ordered a BMR Extreme Duty and BMR Weld-in SFCs tonight. hopefully this will solve the problem.. Would my car having true duals be limiting the movement of the TA enough to hurt it? My only suspension mods are Eibach Sportline springs, and !front sway bar. My rear sway bar end link broke (bolt broke) so I wasnt running a rear sway bar either, but thats just temporary. Any of that stuff might lead to it? Someone told me that I may not have been tightening the bolts enough.. They were very tight though, to the point they wouldnt turn anymore with a breaker bar on the ratchet.