JoeliusZ28

is there any way fluid could have gotten into the oil during the build before you even started it? Im with these guys 15% too much fuel should not have done that...

LearJet

you said "Only got 100 miles out of it. Should've checked the bearings before we put it together - we bought the engine used with "60k" but we never checked the piston rings or the bearings." do you mean you bought a engine that was supposed to be running and had 60K miles on it? Or did you rebuild this? Either way your injectors didn't do this. In they were dumping enough fuel that it washed the cylinder walls A) It wouldn't run for ****, B) the cylinders would be trashed and your look fine. What kind of work did you do to this engine?

meissen

Not that I know of. Even when we primed the oil pump before we started the car we had the injector and ignition fuses all pulled so nothing should have been going into the cylinders. I'm pretty new to this stuff (as you know Joel) so I don't know of any other way the fuel could have gotten into the oil other than past the rings? It's most certainly fuel though that was in the oil - even the oil pan smelled like gasoline.

Supposedly the engine had 60k on it when we bought it. The guy who owned the engine says he t-boned someone who ran through a red light. There was damage to the accessory bracket but otherwise there was absolutely no signs of damage to the engine inside or out. Even when we were tearing it down - no sludge in the lifter valley, no sludge in the heads, valve guides were good, etc. All signs seemed to point that the engine was well taken care of and we felt pretty comfortable not checking the bearings out figuring it was only a 60k stock engine.

We took it down to short block and had the heads cleaned and milled .010, then we put a cc503 cam, 1.6 pro mag roller rockers, comp cams push rods, guide plates, stock lifters, 30# injectors.

In regards to the A/B scenario - A fits once it warmed up. Once it hit closed loop, if I slowed down or came to a stop it'd want to stall. I drove the car for ~25 miles and by the time I reached the destination if I so much as took my foot off the gas it'd die.

LearJet

You know that back in the ww2 days a lot of the big piston powered aircraft had a system on them that dumped fuel in to the oil to thin it out to get them started. after the engine warmed the oil it just evaporates out. Doesn't hurt them one bit.

meissen

Hmmm... well I have no clue. My dad and I have been trying to figure out the cause of this because we really don't want to rebuild the whole thing and then find out whatever the true issue was wasn't addressed and now we're back at this point again.

We don't know if the fuel being in the oil is the cause or the result of the spun bearings. Maybe the metal shavings got into the piston rings and somehow allowed the fuel to blow past. Maybe it was the fuel that got into the oil and caused a huge degradation in lubrication and caused the bearings to seize.

All I know is the only two symptoms/results I have - had tons of fuel in the oil and the bearings were toasted.

Jim Rockford

If the bearing shells spun in block , the block might be toast.

meissen

Well, it's going to the machine shop right now so we'll know more by the end of the day hopefully.

meissen

Hey guys - what's the plausability that the injectors I bought were just hanging wide open? Would I see something if I was running Data Master? One of the guys on my site mentioned when he did a cam swap his injectors were stuck open and with the amount of fuel in my oil it would almost seem like maybe one or two were stuck on mine?

bw_hunter

I guess stuck open could mean virtually anything but the stock injectors flow about 3 cc per second. Your combustion chambers are somewher in the neighborhood of 54cc...I woulod think you'd hydrolock something if you were dumping that much fuel....

meissen

well I had used 30# injectors and he had a piece of paper showing their flow but it was from a year or so ago. Still just trying to figure out just how there was that much gas in the oil.

ACE1252

Where are the honing marks that are supposed to be in the cylinders? Due to the camera res, I may not be able to see them.

meissen

In regards to the honing we did? I don't know if it was a true hone that my dad and I did - it was more like a fine grit sanding block that did nothing more than remove the carbon build up ring at the top. There was no metal removed from the cylinders. It seemed to work as good as those rust removal hard sponges that you attach to a drill.

We bought the tool at our local Murrays/O'Reilly store. It was three prongs with a porous block on each prong that expanded out and spun against the walls of the cylinder when you turned the drill on. We just used a 9v cordless drill to do it. After we were done we vacuumed out all the debris, washed the cylinders out with WD-40 to make sure we got any little pieces of dirt, and then we applied a thin film of assembly grease to the cylinder walls to coat them again.

ACE1252

I guess I didn't know if excessive wear in the cylinder would cause the honing marks to disappear. It very well may be that the picture does not have enough resolution to show them.

I was under the impression that a honing pattern was critical to proper oiling of the cylinder. I maybe misinformed(looks like I am....seems to be to seat rings quicker...not sure).

My engine has 99K on it and you can still see the honing pattern very clearly.

http://www.ace1252.com/images/CC503_...ng_pattern.JPG

meissen

Yeah - I'm sure a true hone would look like that, but that's what I'm saying - ours wasn't a real hone job it was just using the honing tool to get rid of the ridge at the top of the cylinder walls.

How's your car run? Looks like you have about the same setup.

ACE1252

Runs extremely well.

I've picked up 3 mph in the 1/8 without headers. I'm currently putting it back together after resealing the oil pan with "The Right Stuff". I used Permatex #2, the first time, and that stuff is not for sealing an oil pan with a rubber gasket. It got hard and brittle....stopped sealing and I had an oil leak on both ends of the pan.