FastZinTennessee

I was thinking about ditching the ugly coolant crossover tube and using some AN fittings and braided lines. I really don't know where to begin, as this idea just popped into my head. Just wanted to see if anyone on here had done this and could tell me exactly what parts (mainly fitting sizes) I'd need, and pictures would be great too.

I'm thinking this setup would also be a lot easier if I had to pull and re-install the heads with the motor in....

Jameslt1TA

I know of a few that have done it. All i remeber is it wants too cheap. Maybe that will chime in. All i think you would need is just some rubber hose and hose clamps....but that is equally ugly lol.

SStrokerAce

Yeah I've done it....

When you mill the snot out of heads and the block bout the only way to fly.

I cut the tubing out of the crossover tube that goes between the heads. Then put the fittings on the mill and drill and tap them to run AN fittings to join them. I think I used a 4AN to do this, maybe a 6AN. Not too big of a deal. Wish I had a pic for you.

Bret

FastZinTennessee

I was thinking about just getting a 90* fitting to go directly into the back of the head, standard threads on the head side, AN threads on the other into a fitting and hose going towards the front of the motor, and have the two separate lines converge somewhere at the front of the motor. If I take a 90* fitting and go straight into the back of the head, I'm not sure if I'll have enough clearance to get the AN fitting on the other side though..........

1racerdude

Ya need a 90* and a "T" and they need to have "O" ring's a washer and a nut built on to the part that goes into the head. Screw the 90 into the driver's side and the T in the pass side. Get them for whatever size hose ya want to run. Get the Earl's push lock hose and JIC/AN swivel fittings to screw onto the fittings in the head. From the pass side run it around to the radiator and attach with a clamp like the factory does.The size hose that fits the radiator is best to use.

The holes in the head are streight thread not pipe.
http://www.tompkinsind.com/images/product/STAINLES.JPG

FastZinTennessee

Thanks a lot for the help! Do you know what size the hole in the head is??

Birdie2000

Does any of the major manufacturers (Earl's, Aeroquip, etc.) make fittings with the washer and o-ring included? I've seen the o-ring -AN fittings before like on Y-blocks and regulators, but don't recall them having a washer. Just wanna make sure I know exactly (like part#'s if possible) what to buy beforehand if I decide to do this.

Joes94TA

the thread is standard 1/2" pipe ....so its fairly easy to do...actually this is a good modification on any stock or modified lt1 ..if anyone ever ran 8 egt's they would see that a increase in water flow through volume would help alot on the rear cylinders and stay alot cooler which benefits in many ways in tuning and compression..I'd go 6 AN!!!

T/A lt1

Good idea guys I thought about it but never heard anyone trying it. I guess I will have to try this when putting my new heads on. Will help keep temps down while spraying escpeacially on pumpgas. Thanks for the info. later Clint

1racerdude

A 1/2" pipe fitting can be used with plenty of sealer but the thread is a streight thread. That is why the factory puts "o" ring washer's on the banjo fitting. Another thing when using a tapered thread pipe fitting ya might not get it to point in the right direction when it is tight and the threads in the head are not very deep,so ya might strip them.

Joes94TA

This is true ,but it does work however.. I recommend pipe tape than sealer and wrap the threads around 5 times. that way once it snugs you are working against the pipe tape and not so much metal to metal.If you got any mechanical skills you should be fine ... none the less I suggest that to anyone... 6an ( 3/8 equivalent) is alot more volume than 1/8" which is what the factory crossover line is close to being same for the holes in the reverse cool factory fittings.....

FastZinTennessee

I never thought of the performance increase, I'm gonna try and get some parts numbers together so when I place my next summit order I can get the parts.

FastZinTennessee

I'm looking at fittings and need some help. First off in summit I can't find any fittings with an O-ring and washer on it. 1racerdude, I looked at the website you posted and couldn't find very much on it other than the picture you linked to, when I clicked on some of the products all it showed me was an error page. I don't want to half-*** this, but if standard fittings without O-rings and washers will work I think I have it figured out-

I planned on running -6 like Joe suggested because that is about the right size that I need to go into the radiator. I need to see if it's acceptable to run -10 line between the heads, and -6 from one side of the "T" to the radiator. Basically, the only "T" fitting I can find in the catalog that has 1/2" thread on it goes to -10 line. So I was thinking instead of running a -10 to -6 reducer on both sides of the "T", just get a 1/2" to -10 90* fitting to go on the driver side, run -10 line to a 1/2" to -10 "T" fitting on the passenger side, then run a -10 to -6 reducer on the other side of the "T" with -6 line going to the radiator. Comments?

1racerdude

Those fitting's are high pressure hyd fittings. Ya won't find them in Summet catalog but ya can call Earl's to see.
Ya can find them at a hyd/hose dealer in your area. Call around and describe it to the salesman ya talk to they should know what ya want.They are usually in a hyd valve body set up or a hyd cyl.
A#10 is pretty large and changing sizes from the crossover to the line running to the rad won't help.ya need to keep un the same size and a smaller line across the back is easier to work with to hook up in the tight space.

1racerdude

Ya can probably find them at Caterpillar Tractor.