Arcing, but unknown cause. HELP!!!
11-30-2003, 11:33 AM
#46
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Location: Waynesboro, PA
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Oh boy............
Well, I just got done pulling my plug wires. Upon closer inspection, I found one tiny burn mark, and three heat cracked wires. Badly heat cracked.
Could this be the problem I don't know. If it was, you'd suppose that the arcing would present itself at the problem wires, not the coil. I'm debating on putting the new wires in until I get some type of heat shielding.
Oh, and my plugs were new, and black too!!! Carbon deposit because of too much fuel black, probably caused by the suspect lack of spark. Stay tuned......
Well, I just got done pulling my plug wires. Upon closer inspection, I found one tiny burn mark, and three heat cracked wires. Badly heat cracked.
Could this be the problem I don't know. If it was, you'd suppose that the arcing would present itself at the problem wires, not the coil. I'm debating on putting the new wires in until I get some type of heat shielding.
Oh, and my plugs were new, and black too!!! Carbon deposit because of too much fuel black, probably caused by the suspect lack of spark. Stay tuned......
12-03-2003, 06:42 PM
#47
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Location: sarasota, fl
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well i checked at night...........mine still has the arching on the coil, and one plug.........the other plug that was arching has stopped (or atleast i dotn see it).......that might explain why it feels a little smoother now.
im getting really annoyed that something so simple cant be figured out.
im ready to just get another opti just to put my mind at ease that that isnt it. my opti is less than 2yrs old, but we all know that doesnt mean crap, these thing can die in 2 weeks.
im getting really annoyed that something so simple cant be figured out.
im ready to just get another opti just to put my mind at ease that that isnt it. my opti is less than 2yrs old, but we all know that doesnt mean crap, these thing can die in 2 weeks.
12-04-2003, 08:11 AM
#48
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Maryland
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ok
i am going to try this maybe u can too.
take the wire off from the plug and ground it out to the block and see if with a good ground the coil will stop arching... just a thought.. im going to try it
take the wire off from the plug and ground it out to the block and see if with a good ground the coil will stop arching... just a thought.. im going to try it
12-04-2003, 08:21 AM
#49
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Well, after putting in new plugs and wires, the car DEFINITELY idles smoother, and revvs smoother, but the stumble/hesitation with a fast throttle movement is still there. I don't think it's ignition related at this point. It's either fuel or tune related.
I haven't checked to see if the coil is still arcing, but I'm guessing it is as the stumble with the fast throttle movement is probably being caused by too much fuel and not letting the plug fire, causing the resistance.
I haven't checked to see if the coil is still arcing, but I'm guessing it is as the stumble with the fast throttle movement is probably being caused by too much fuel and not letting the plug fire, causing the resistance.
12-04-2003, 08:29 AM
#50
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Originally posted by Fastbird93
Well, after putting in new plugs and wires, the car DEFINITELY idles smoother, and revvs smoother, but the stumble/hesitation with a fast throttle movement is still there. I don't think it's ignition related at this point. It's either fuel or tune related.
I haven't checked to see if the coil is still arcing, but I'm guessing it is as the stumble with the fast throttle movement is probably being caused by too much fuel and not letting the plug fire, causing the resistance.
Well, after putting in new plugs and wires, the car DEFINITELY idles smoother, and revvs smoother, but the stumble/hesitation with a fast throttle movement is still there. I don't think it's ignition related at this point. It's either fuel or tune related.
I haven't checked to see if the coil is still arcing, but I'm guessing it is as the stumble with the fast throttle movement is probably being caused by too much fuel and not letting the plug fire, causing the resistance.
hmm.......if thats the case.....why do i have the same prob on a bolton car........i doubt its running really rich...........unless my jethot slipfit leak is causing my driver side to run rich. (which would explain why i only see plugs arching on that side).
12-04-2003, 01:18 PM
#51
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Location: Maryland
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hmm
Originally posted by got_hp?
hmm.......if thats the case.....why do i have the same prob on a bolton car........i doubt its running really rich...........unless my jethot slipfit leak is causing my driver side to run rich. (which would explain why i only see plugs arching on that side).
hmm.......if thats the case.....why do i have the same prob on a bolton car........i doubt its running really rich...........unless my jethot slipfit leak is causing my driver side to run rich. (which would explain why i only see plugs arching on that side).
My slipfit is leaking....would that cause only one plug to arch on that side (the second one not the one with the slipfit)
12-04-2003, 04:13 PM
#52
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Re: hmm
Originally posted by 97formula1234
My slipfit is leaking....would that cause only one plug to arch on that side (the second one not the one with the slipfit)
My slipfit is leaking....would that cause only one plug to arch on that side (the second one not the one with the slipfit)
that is the same plug thats arching for me, cylinder 3 (2nd plug to the front driver side). 7 arched before too, but doesnt seem to as much now.
and my coil is still arching.
12-04-2003, 04:18 PM
#53
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Well, I'm guessing that my arcing problem isn't happening anymore since the plug change. I'll verify later tonight, but the idle on the thing is tons smoother.
How close does the wire that's arcing reside to the grounding point???
How close does the wire that's arcing reside to the grounding point???
12-04-2003, 04:25 PM
#54
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Originally posted by Fastbird93
Well, I'm guessing that my arcing problem isn't happening anymore since the plug change. I'll verify later tonight, but the idle on the thing is tons smoother.
Well, I'm guessing that my arcing problem isn't happening anymore since the plug change. I'll verify later tonight, but the idle on the thing is tons smoother.
Originally posted by Fastbird93
How close does the wire that's arcing reside to the grounding point???
How close does the wire that's arcing reside to the grounding point???
12-04-2003, 10:18 PM
#59
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Ok, I just took a look, and here's what I found.
I still have some sporadic arcing at the coil, and I have one plug that's getting the semi-normal "glow" at the block. Idle quality is much improved still.
Hope this help, it didn't seem to for me.
I still have some sporadic arcing at the coil, and I have one plug that's getting the semi-normal "glow" at the block. Idle quality is much improved still.
Hope this help, it didn't seem to for me.
12-09-2003, 07:08 PM
#60
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a new thing to try.
talked to brett at MASC (board sponsor that i buy my parts from)...........he said he has had a few LT1's have misfire problems because the coil and ignition control module get too hot sitting on the head.
solution:
space the coil bracket away from the head.
how:
studs......instead of mounting flat against the head........screw the studs all the way into the head (i had to shorten both studs about 1/4 inch with a hacksaw) then mount the coil bracket on top of that, then screw on the nuts (you need one extra 3/8" nut for the one closer to the TB) onto the stud and secure with the grounds in the normal place. this leaves about 3/8" of airflow behind the bracket to keep the coil cooler.
also, remove the ICM from the coil bracket, along with its little heatsink bracket.......i extended the wiring harness using some new wiring and barrel connectors, then covered it with plastic enginebay tubing. i mounted the ICM to the top of the fenderwell near the fusebox. that gives it plenty of cooling ability. (make sure you extend the wires properly, crimp the correct wires to their corresponding wire on the harness, or the car wont start...hehe ask me how i know!) also, make sure you run a ground wire from the ICM heatsink to the factory ground location, just in case.
second prob........LT1 grounding SUCKS!
solution: upgrade all the grounds!
i used added a 4 guage ground from the coil bracket to the stock ground location on the frame (which i sanded down to bare metal). then i also added a 4guage ground from that location to the block itself. i used the location where my AIR pump used to screw in, because its empty now, and it allows the ground to touch the bare iron.
results?
well the car runs smoother for sure.........but i wont know until i can look in the dark to see if the arcing is gone.
even if they dont solve the arcing problem, these are very easy things to do, and certainly make sure i wont have heat/grounding probs in the future.
talked to brett at MASC (board sponsor that i buy my parts from)...........he said he has had a few LT1's have misfire problems because the coil and ignition control module get too hot sitting on the head.
solution:
space the coil bracket away from the head.
how:
studs......instead of mounting flat against the head........screw the studs all the way into the head (i had to shorten both studs about 1/4 inch with a hacksaw) then mount the coil bracket on top of that, then screw on the nuts (you need one extra 3/8" nut for the one closer to the TB) onto the stud and secure with the grounds in the normal place. this leaves about 3/8" of airflow behind the bracket to keep the coil cooler.
also, remove the ICM from the coil bracket, along with its little heatsink bracket.......i extended the wiring harness using some new wiring and barrel connectors, then covered it with plastic enginebay tubing. i mounted the ICM to the top of the fenderwell near the fusebox. that gives it plenty of cooling ability. (make sure you extend the wires properly, crimp the correct wires to their corresponding wire on the harness, or the car wont start...hehe ask me how i know!) also, make sure you run a ground wire from the ICM heatsink to the factory ground location, just in case.
second prob........LT1 grounding SUCKS!
solution: upgrade all the grounds!
i used added a 4 guage ground from the coil bracket to the stock ground location on the frame (which i sanded down to bare metal). then i also added a 4guage ground from that location to the block itself. i used the location where my AIR pump used to screw in, because its empty now, and it allows the ground to touch the bare iron.
results?
well the car runs smoother for sure.........but i wont know until i can look in the dark to see if the arcing is gone.
even if they dont solve the arcing problem, these are very easy things to do, and certainly make sure i wont have heat/grounding probs in the future.
Last edited by got_hp?; 12-09-2003 at 07:10 PM.