Injuneer

Swap your O2 sensors side to side, and see if the BLM's swap sides. But that wouldn't explain what happened at frame 261 (although I'm not sure you even read what I wrote). Checking the injector electrical circuits doesn't prove the injectors are working, or that they are flowing the design flow.

What was your fuel pressure at 4,500RPM/WOT?

pboxfun

So what's happening at frame 261 then? I've never seen a car do that before so I have no idea. I did read what you wrote which is why I was checking the injectors and power going to them. I wanted to make sure it wasn't something obvious that explains why Im not getting fuel. How am I supposed to check them? Ill let you know as what the pressure is when I go drive my car and I'll swap o2 sensors.

Injuneer

You can start the process by checking the fuel pressure under load. And since you indicate you already tested the fuel pressure, and "according to my fuel pressure gauge ..... it seems like everything is working right." So.... what was the pressure? Simple question, that you indicate you had already checked.

popo8

I have to admit... Im on board with him ^^^^^ 100%.


Larry (Popo8) Co-owner
LTXtech.com

pboxfun

When I datalog the car the fuel pressure was at 47 psi @ WOT. When the car started acting up at WOT the fuel pressure never dropped.

popo8

So ur gettin ur fuel psi through datalog... Not a mechanical on the schrader?


Larry (Popo8) Co-owner
LTXtech.com

pboxfun

I wish I could get it from the datalog it would be hell of a lot easier. Lol I got the reading off the scharder valve. 47 psi @ wot was what my fuel pressure was at when I did the dataloging of my car. It never dropped even when the misfiring started happening.

popo8

Well thats whybi asked cause i didn understand where u were getting it.




Larry (Popo8) Co-owner
LTXtech.com

Chimera96

OP

from this side of the internet....Opti

if you have confirmed FP under SUSTAINED WOT and get 47 than that indicates fuel is not leaning out the car. Confirming plugs/wires, coil, ICM are all good......I would look towards the Opti

it could be as simple as rotor screw came out/lose or a failing Opti....but until you R&R you won't know. Have never had a bad Opti throw a code but have had them fail.

slick1hunting

if your fuel pressure truly holds under load then that doesnt rule out fueling issues it does narrow it down considerably though. Possible cause is dirty injector(one or two not flowing at proper amount) Fred aluded to that. If they have a few years on them and you can afford to have them cleaned and flow tested might be money well spent. You can also diagnose by having a fuel pressure guage hooked up and have a tool that pulses the injector several times in a few seconds and see if one doesnt drop to the same pressure the others do. Your plugs may also show you some things. I would be certain plugs and plug wires are good. An exhaust leak before the o2 can wreak havok as well I would be certain no exhaust leaks too. Most muffler shops will put it on the lift and inspect it for free. I would inspect the o2 wires especially passenger side as they are routed close to the header and could cook. The real question is if its truly lean or a false lean. if you are leaning out real bad and continue to run it hard you are asking for trouble. Another area I would check out is in the air side of things. Clean your maf sensor and check for any vacuume leaks or unmetered air getting in and be sure your air filter is clean. Be sure you are running good high octane gas as well(I prefer supreme with no ethanol). My point is sometimes if your getting weak spark and off air flow and poor gas it can run rough. Eliminating the things I listed is pretty much free unless you need your injectors cleaned or find you need new plugs and or wires. Things like cleaning the maf probably wont solve your problem but it helps insure its doing its job at capacity and it gives you time to examine thing at the air intake side of things for leaks or bad spots. Lastly did the problem just appear or did you do ant service before it started( like changed fuel filter and new pcv valve). Had you been driving it regularly or did it sit for any length of time.


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Injuneer

The data log shows it going lean. If the pressure is holding up and fuel is flowing then the only possible explanation is loss of spark. The unburned air is dumping into the exhaust and creating the lean O2 sensor readings. Now we're back to my original suggestion. That'a why you had to check the fuel pressure.

pboxfun

I finally had time to work on my car a bit yesterday. So I decided to go through all the plugs and wires. All the plugs looked good and didn't show any signs of running too rich or lean. But I did fine one of plug wires on the driver side to be cracked and arching. I had to look at the wire at weird angle which is why I must have missed it the other night. Hopefully this has been the cause of my misfire. I'm going to be changing all the wires to MSD and route them OTVC. I'll let everyone know if this fixes the problem or not after I change them.

Chimera96

the arch would certainly cause a misfire. FWIW I chased a misfire for several weeks and did look at wires/plugs at night and even sprayed water to see if any arch could be induced. NADA

It wasn't until I had the car up on stands, motor running, and looking for any cause that may be the reason and by chance I saw the arch between #7 plug boot and the metal heat shield (factory) arount that boot. Bingo problem solved

My point is even if you think you have "checked" everything REALLY confirm you can see every inch from every angle of a plug or wire to confirm nothing is arching.

OP has a solid cause so ideally this will resolve the misfire once wire is fixed/replaced.

pboxfun

Update!!!
After installing the OTVC wires and plugs my car was still missing at high RPMs. Then my car finally threw a code 36 (Hi Res Failure) and would even start. So I finally decided to replace the optispark. After taking everything apart I noticed my water pump seal in the timing cover had been leaking and everything was covered in oil. I took the opti apart to find everything covered in oil. Turns out my bad water pump seal leaked oil all over my optispark until it covered the optical sensor in it. Luckily I have a lifetime warranty on my opti and got a new one for free. I also bought the special tool ($11 on Ebay) required to install the water pump drive seal on my timing cover correctly so it won’t leak. While I was there I also installed a summit racing (CVR) electric water pump as well. I put it all back together and it works as good as new again. No misfiring at any RPMs and no more oil leaking. Thanks to everyone for all your help!

slopokrodrigez

Does the company that warrantied the opti, sell other items also?