Barebones cam swap...
#1
Barebones cam swap...
What is the absolute limit to the fewest things needed for a cam swap assuming a stock engine?
Would a valvespring upgrade be basically it?
I KNOW YOU WOULD GET NOWHERE NEAR THE NORMAL AMOUNT OF POWER OUT OF A CHOKED CRAPPY SETUP LIKE THIS.
I am talking with a friend about this and want outsiders opinions.
I just want to know the absolute limit to run an aftermarket cam.
Would a valvespring upgrade be basically it?
I KNOW YOU WOULD GET NOWHERE NEAR THE NORMAL AMOUNT OF POWER OUT OF A CHOKED CRAPPY SETUP LIKE THIS.
I am talking with a friend about this and want outsiders opinions.
I just want to know the absolute limit to run an aftermarket cam.
#8
Yes, thanks for the advice. I know what to do, the question is what is the absolute basic LIMIT needed to run it.
If I were to run one, I'd do RRs, 10308 kit, GM guideplates and chromeoly pushrods, LTs, gears, stall, probably some heads and still keep the shift at or below 6500 until I could build a bottom end.
If I were to run one, I'd do RRs, 10308 kit, GM guideplates and chromeoly pushrods, LTs, gears, stall, probably some heads and still keep the shift at or below 6500 until I could build a bottom end.
Last edited by LSWHO; 09-08-2008 at 07:32 PM.
#10
The bigger the cam, the harder it is going to be on the other valvetrain parts. You slap a big cam into a stock engine and fail to upgrade any of the valvetrain components, you are probably going to break something.
#12
#13
I think the point made about you breaking something DOES have a bearing on your topic because its good advice that might save you the trouble and money of doing it over right the first time.
Plus what good is going through a cam swap, but the increased HP is beyong the range of your other components?
I am currently doing a cam swap on my 95 TA. I bought a cc503 cam, comp camps magnum 1.6 RR, new push rods and timing chain. I also have a set of factory ported castings with a fresh valve job and a set of pacesetter headers.
Im on a budget (as everone might know on this board lol), but sometimes it just pays dividends to listen and do the job right.
Plus what good is going through a cam swap, but the increased HP is beyong the range of your other components?
I am currently doing a cam swap on my 95 TA. I bought a cc503 cam, comp camps magnum 1.6 RR, new push rods and timing chain. I also have a set of factory ported castings with a fresh valve job and a set of pacesetter headers.
Im on a budget (as everone might know on this board lol), but sometimes it just pays dividends to listen and do the job right.
#14
Plus what good is going through a cam swap, but the increased HP is beyong the range of your other components?
I am currently doing a cam swap on my 95 TA. I bought a cc503 cam, comp camps magnum 1.6 RR, new push rods and timing chain. I also have a set of factory ported castings with a fresh valve job and a set of pacesetter headers.
I've heard of people running stock pushrods on a CC306, so that's not necessary in all applications either.
Basically what you are saying is that headers are the only necessary mod for a cam, which I can tell you are NOT necessary. For peak power, yes. But NOT necessary.
#15
I'm not trying to be rude here. I'm just trying to elicit an answer but nobody is answering I keep getting the same old "you won't make the power you want." Or "you need to rev it higher," or "you need ported heads." But my question has nothing to do with this.
Pretend I am trying to make the worlds SLOWEST over cammed F-body.
I am simply looking for what is Required to do a cam swap.
Pretend I am trying to make the worlds SLOWEST over cammed F-body.
I am simply looking for what is Required to do a cam swap.