Bearing Clearances
09-30-2012, 04:36 AM
#31
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 875
Re: Bearing Clearances
I don't know who know's what but there are a few people on here that I trust. Injuneer, shoebox, kevinblown, and machinist.
I will have my block on Monday, so the work will begin.
Anyone know where I can get the woodruff key for the crank timing gear?
I will have my block on Monday, so the work will begin.
Anyone know where I can get the woodruff key for the crank timing gear?
09-30-2012, 08:42 AM
#32
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Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 27,714
Re: Bearing Clearances
Early key- GM PART # 10128303
Late key- GM PART # 12550096
http://shbox.com/1/engine_front_diagram.jpg
10-01-2012, 08:23 PM
#33
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 38
Re: Bearing Clearances
Well i wish u good luck and my only regret is i didn't save you from wasting money on un-needed machine work.
cardo
10-01-2012, 09:52 PM
#34
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,001
Re: Bearing Clearances
Hey Chet. Just trying to help u save your limited monies from alignhone/bore on your economy rebuild. And another lie the butthurt constantly make is that i don't have experience but yes i do have experience rebuilding motors without alingboning the block - just a few but they all worked great in my cars and my friends. To tell a young novice he needs to waste money alingboning the block when he's using the original crank and block on a lo-po econo rebuild stinks soo bad it smells from eastcoast to westcoast. So we'll see how much they help u with the rest of it.
Well i wish u good luck and my only regret is i didn't save you from wasting money on un-needed machine work.
cardo
Well i wish u good luck and my only regret is i didn't save you from wasting money on un-needed machine work.
cardo
Simple fact of the matter is that you have backed yourself into a corner in multiple threads on this board by trying to talk about things that you do not have enough experience in. You spreading misinformation due to speaking from a position of ignorance is why you're called out, it's nothing personal against you (although it's beginning to be), but rather it's the desire to keep this message board free of erroneous information.
When is an align-hone not needed? When the block can be verified to have it's main housing bore on size and perfectly straight.
How do we check this? Each main housing bore can be checked for size with a proper Sunnen .0001" resolution dial bore gauge. Straightness checking pretty much relies on reading the bearings that came out of the motor, this is why pretty much all performance shops will "kiss in" the main housing bore by a few tenths to verify that the mains are all perfectly straight. Doing this without cutting the caps makes absolutely no difference in the center to center measurement of the cam to crank bores, and is the way I do it for any motor we build. A full align hone job is done when the caps have lost their register, when fitting studs, or when using donor caps, there's enough distortion of the bore that it's necessary to cut enough off the caps to shrink the housing bore down to ~.0025" under the spec. Then I use a long precision mandrel to hone back to size, doing this takes equal material off both the cap and the block so the end result is only a change of ~.0012" in the center to center of the crank and cam bore...if you have any understanding of tolerances, that it very very small, and has no effect on timing chain slack.
You know how people always talk about a "seasoned" block? That's one that has been run and subjected to vibration, torque, and temperature so that it has now "settled" into it's final shape. When you have a bore that is rarely machined exactly right from the factory, and then you run that engine for hundreds of thousands of miles, the metal shifts around a little bit and the ~2' long bore that is supposed to fall within a tolerance of 2.6406"-2.6412" ends up not being perfectly aligned.
Most of the time the block will be fine to reuse if upon teardown the main bearings look good, and the caps are still tight in their registers, but if the bearings show any kind of offset wear, or if the caps do not snap tightly into their registers, then a line hone is necessary, and a small cost to pay to give your motor a long life. If you're running main clearances loose, then you can get away with more misalignment, but when you have main clearances running less than .001" on late model aluminum block motors like the LS1-LS7, then you absolutely cannot cut corners on main housing bore size.
Now lets go back to your original comment.
Originally Posted by cardo0
Something i don't agree with is alinehoning or boring the mains. Chevy Power manual/cataloge says no alinghone/boring as long as u can correct with +/-0.001" bearings and crank turns free. If your using the original crank then it should rotate freely unless it's been trashed. Alinehoning/boring will loosen your timing chain unless corrected - don't go there, its a headache for the pros.
Originally Posted by MachinistOne
I align hone every single performance motor I do, I want the main housing bore to be perfectly straight and dead nuts on size which it never is from the factory. Done right it will not loosen the chain by any noticeable amount, and even if it did, I would rather get a -.005" set than compromise on machining quality.
Now instead of taking my advice and going off to educate yourself about the differences between those two processes so that you might see your mistake, you came back in here to imply that I was pressuring the OP into a process that he does not need. Obviously that's factually incorrect to anyone who can read this thread, and its unfortunate and sad that you obviously have no desire to learn, but rather suffer from some mental deficiency that results in you feeling the need to tell professionals who build more motors in a week than you have in your life that they are wrong and you are right.
I honestly feel sorry for you.
Last edited by MachinistOne; 10-01-2012 at 09:54 PM.
10-02-2012, 04:27 AM
#35
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Woodstown, NJ
Posts: 4,154
Re: Bearing Clearances
Nobody told him that he needed an align hone or an align bore, but nice try.
Simple fact of the matter is that you have backed yourself into a corner in multiple threads on this board by trying to talk about things that you do not have enough experience in. You spreading misinformation due to speaking from a position of ignorance is why you're called out, it's nothing personal against you (although it's beginning to be), but rather it's the desire to keep this message board free of erroneous information.
When is an align-hone not needed? When the block can be verified to have it's main housing bore on size and perfectly straight.
How do we check this? Each main housing bore can be checked for size with a proper Sunnen .0001" resolution dial bore gauge. Straightness checking pretty much relies on reading the bearings that came out of the motor, this is why pretty much all performance shops will "kiss in" the main housing bore by a few tenths to verify that the mains are all perfectly straight. Doing this without cutting the caps makes absolutely no difference in the center to center measurement of the cam to crank bores, and is the way I do it for any motor we build. A full align hone job is done when the caps have lost their register, when fitting studs, or when using donor caps, there's enough distortion of the bore that it's necessary to cut enough off the caps to shrink the housing bore down to ~.0025" under the spec. Then I use a long precision mandrel to hone back to size, doing this takes equal material off both the cap and the block so the end result is only a change of ~.0012" in the center to center of the crank and cam bore...if you have any understanding of tolerances, that it very very small, and has no effect on timing chain slack.
You know how people always talk about a "seasoned" block? That's one that has been run and subjected to vibration, torque, and temperature so that it has now "settled" into it's final shape. When you have a bore that is rarely machined exactly right from the factory, and then you run that engine for hundreds of thousands of miles, the metal shifts around a little bit and the ~2' long bore that is supposed to fall within a tolerance of 2.6406"-2.6412" ends up not being perfectly aligned.
Most of the time the block will be fine to reuse if upon teardown the main bearings look good, and the caps are still tight in their registers, but if the bearings show any kind of offset wear, or if the caps do not snap tightly into their registers, then a line hone is necessary, and a small cost to pay to give your motor a long life. If you're running main clearances loose, then you can get away with more misalignment, but when you have main clearances running less than .001" on late model aluminum block motors like the LS1-LS7, then you absolutely cannot cut corners on main housing bore size.
Now lets go back to your original comment.
To which I replied.
Now I specifically said align-hone, I did that on purpose because there is a major difference between those two operations that you nonchalantly lumped together regardless that the book you used as a source only specifying an align-bore.... while they both size the housing bore, it's two processes that use different machines for different purposes, and end up with different results.
Now instead of taking my advice and going off to educate yourself about the differences between those two processes so that you might see your mistake, you came back in here to imply that I was pressuring the OP into a process that he does not need. Obviously that's factually incorrect to anyone who can read this thread, and its unfortunate and sad that you obviously have no desire to learn, but rather suffer from some mental deficiency that results in you feeling the need to tell professionals who build more motors in a week than you have in your life that they are wrong and you are right.
I honestly feel sorry for you.
Simple fact of the matter is that you have backed yourself into a corner in multiple threads on this board by trying to talk about things that you do not have enough experience in. You spreading misinformation due to speaking from a position of ignorance is why you're called out, it's nothing personal against you (although it's beginning to be), but rather it's the desire to keep this message board free of erroneous information.
When is an align-hone not needed? When the block can be verified to have it's main housing bore on size and perfectly straight.
How do we check this? Each main housing bore can be checked for size with a proper Sunnen .0001" resolution dial bore gauge. Straightness checking pretty much relies on reading the bearings that came out of the motor, this is why pretty much all performance shops will "kiss in" the main housing bore by a few tenths to verify that the mains are all perfectly straight. Doing this without cutting the caps makes absolutely no difference in the center to center measurement of the cam to crank bores, and is the way I do it for any motor we build. A full align hone job is done when the caps have lost their register, when fitting studs, or when using donor caps, there's enough distortion of the bore that it's necessary to cut enough off the caps to shrink the housing bore down to ~.0025" under the spec. Then I use a long precision mandrel to hone back to size, doing this takes equal material off both the cap and the block so the end result is only a change of ~.0012" in the center to center of the crank and cam bore...if you have any understanding of tolerances, that it very very small, and has no effect on timing chain slack.
You know how people always talk about a "seasoned" block? That's one that has been run and subjected to vibration, torque, and temperature so that it has now "settled" into it's final shape. When you have a bore that is rarely machined exactly right from the factory, and then you run that engine for hundreds of thousands of miles, the metal shifts around a little bit and the ~2' long bore that is supposed to fall within a tolerance of 2.6406"-2.6412" ends up not being perfectly aligned.
Most of the time the block will be fine to reuse if upon teardown the main bearings look good, and the caps are still tight in their registers, but if the bearings show any kind of offset wear, or if the caps do not snap tightly into their registers, then a line hone is necessary, and a small cost to pay to give your motor a long life. If you're running main clearances loose, then you can get away with more misalignment, but when you have main clearances running less than .001" on late model aluminum block motors like the LS1-LS7, then you absolutely cannot cut corners on main housing bore size.
Now lets go back to your original comment.
To which I replied.
Now I specifically said align-hone, I did that on purpose because there is a major difference between those two operations that you nonchalantly lumped together regardless that the book you used as a source only specifying an align-bore.... while they both size the housing bore, it's two processes that use different machines for different purposes, and end up with different results.
Now instead of taking my advice and going off to educate yourself about the differences between those two processes so that you might see your mistake, you came back in here to imply that I was pressuring the OP into a process that he does not need. Obviously that's factually incorrect to anyone who can read this thread, and its unfortunate and sad that you obviously have no desire to learn, but rather suffer from some mental deficiency that results in you feeling the need to tell professionals who build more motors in a week than you have in your life that they are wrong and you are right.
I honestly feel sorry for you.
10-02-2012, 05:24 AM
#36
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Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
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Re: Bearing Clearances
10-03-2012, 08:04 AM
#37
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 875
Re: Bearing Clearances
I am going to start rebuild this weekend so if I have any questions will I still get help? lol
10-03-2012, 08:06 AM
#38
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 875
Re: Bearing Clearances
machine shop installed my cam bearings and checked all my rods and installed new pistons on rods. bored cylinders 30 over.
only thing is they were not familiar with the lt1 so they never removed the ball in the oil galley. is it ok that they didnt?
only thing is they were not familiar with the lt1 so they never removed the ball in the oil galley. is it ok that they didnt?
10-03-2012, 12:46 PM
#39
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Kernersville, NC
Posts: 2,063
Re: Bearing Clearances
My main concern would be metal shavings getting trapped by the ball. That is a passage that can be easily rifle brushed(if I remember correctly). I would knock it out and check just to be sure. I think the LT1/LT4 book cautions about that.
Last edited by ACE1252; 10-03-2012 at 12:48 PM.
10-04-2012, 11:30 PM
#40
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 38
Re: Bearing Clearances
No, the correct spelling is Alignboning and it is just a description of when a cheesy shop takes your money for un-needed machine work but leaves u with sloppy valve timing and less performance than without it.
But there are some that actually enjoy getting alignboned.
They fantasize every machine shop has both a alignhone and alignboring machine. Their fantasy is anyone can get their block safely alignhoned accurately and not just get what the shop has got to use. Their next fantasy is that every machine shop is truthful and can perform alignboning accurately - so accurately as not to produce timing chain slop. Yes they fantasize every alignbone done at every shop on the planet is done within 0.0012".
A small fan club Alignboners even exist.
cardo
But there are some that actually enjoy getting alignboned. They fantasize every machine shop has both a alignhone and alignboring machine. Their fantasy is anyone can get their block safely alignhoned accurately and not just get what the shop has got to use. Their next fantasy is that every machine shop is truthful and can perform alignboning accurately - so accurately as not to produce timing chain slop. Yes they fantasize every alignbone done at every shop on the planet is done within 0.0012". A small fan club Alignboners even exist.cardo
10-04-2012, 11:51 PM
#41
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 38
Re: Bearing Clearances
Nobody told him that he needed an align hone or an align bore, but nice try.
Simple fact of the matter is that you have backed yourself into a corner in multiple threads on this board by trying to talk about things that you do not have enough experience in. You spreading misinformation due to speaking from a position of ignorance is why you're called out, it's nothing personal against you (although it's beginning to be), but rather it's the desire to keep this message board free of erroneous information.
When is an align-hone not needed? When the block can be verified to have it's main housing bore on size and perfectly straight.
How do we check this? Each main housing bore can be checked for size with a proper Sunnen .0001" resolution dial bore gauge. Straightness checking pretty much relies on reading the bearings that came out of the motor, this is why pretty much all performance shops will "kiss in" the main housing bore by a few tenths to verify that the mains are all perfectly straight. Doing this without cutting the caps makes absolutely no difference in the center to center measurement of the cam to crank bores, and is the way I do it for any motor we build. A full align hone job is done when the caps have lost their register, when fitting studs, or when using donor caps, there's enough distortion of the bore that it's necessary to cut enough off the caps to shrink the housing bore down to ~.0025" under the spec. Then I use a long precision mandrel to hone back to size, doing this takes equal material off both the cap and the block so the end result is only a change of ~.0012" in the center to center of the crank and cam bore...if you have any understanding of tolerances, that it very very small, and has no effect on timing chain slack.
You know how people always talk about a "seasoned" block? That's one that has been run and subjected to vibration, torque, and temperature so that it has now "settled" into it's final shape. When you have a bore that is rarely machined exactly right from the factory, and then you run that engine for hundreds of thousands of miles, the metal shifts around a little bit and the ~2' long bore that is supposed to fall within a tolerance of 2.6406"-2.6412" ends up not being perfectly aligned.
Most of the time the block will be fine to reuse if upon teardown the main bearings look good, and the caps are still tight in their registers, but if the bearings show any kind of offset wear, or if the caps do not snap tightly into their registers, then a line hone is necessary, and a small cost to pay to give your motor a long life. If you're running main clearances loose, then you can get away with more misalignment, but when you have main clearances running less than .001" on late model aluminum block motors like the LS1-LS7, then you absolutely cannot cut corners on main housing bore size.
Now lets go back to your original comment.
To which I replied.
Now I specifically said align-hone, I did that on purpose because there is a major difference between those two operations that you nonchalantly lumped together regardless that the book you used as a source only specifying an align-bore.... while they both size the housing bore, it's two processes that use different machines for different purposes, and end up with different results.
Now instead of taking my advice and going off to educate yourself about the differences between those two processes so that you might see your mistake, you came back in here to imply that I was pressuring the OP into a process that he does not need. Obviously that's factually incorrect to anyone who can read this thread, and its unfortunate and sad that you obviously have no desire to learn, but rather suffer from some mental deficiency that results in you feeling the need to tell professionals who build more motors in a week than you have in your life that they are wrong and you are right.
I honestly feel sorry for you.
Simple fact of the matter is that you have backed yourself into a corner in multiple threads on this board by trying to talk about things that you do not have enough experience in. You spreading misinformation due to speaking from a position of ignorance is why you're called out, it's nothing personal against you (although it's beginning to be), but rather it's the desire to keep this message board free of erroneous information.
When is an align-hone not needed? When the block can be verified to have it's main housing bore on size and perfectly straight.
How do we check this? Each main housing bore can be checked for size with a proper Sunnen .0001" resolution dial bore gauge. Straightness checking pretty much relies on reading the bearings that came out of the motor, this is why pretty much all performance shops will "kiss in" the main housing bore by a few tenths to verify that the mains are all perfectly straight. Doing this without cutting the caps makes absolutely no difference in the center to center measurement of the cam to crank bores, and is the way I do it for any motor we build. A full align hone job is done when the caps have lost their register, when fitting studs, or when using donor caps, there's enough distortion of the bore that it's necessary to cut enough off the caps to shrink the housing bore down to ~.0025" under the spec. Then I use a long precision mandrel to hone back to size, doing this takes equal material off both the cap and the block so the end result is only a change of ~.0012" in the center to center of the crank and cam bore...if you have any understanding of tolerances, that it very very small, and has no effect on timing chain slack.
You know how people always talk about a "seasoned" block? That's one that has been run and subjected to vibration, torque, and temperature so that it has now "settled" into it's final shape. When you have a bore that is rarely machined exactly right from the factory, and then you run that engine for hundreds of thousands of miles, the metal shifts around a little bit and the ~2' long bore that is supposed to fall within a tolerance of 2.6406"-2.6412" ends up not being perfectly aligned.
Most of the time the block will be fine to reuse if upon teardown the main bearings look good, and the caps are still tight in their registers, but if the bearings show any kind of offset wear, or if the caps do not snap tightly into their registers, then a line hone is necessary, and a small cost to pay to give your motor a long life. If you're running main clearances loose, then you can get away with more misalignment, but when you have main clearances running less than .001" on late model aluminum block motors like the LS1-LS7, then you absolutely cannot cut corners on main housing bore size.
Now lets go back to your original comment.
To which I replied.
Now I specifically said align-hone, I did that on purpose because there is a major difference between those two operations that you nonchalantly lumped together regardless that the book you used as a source only specifying an align-bore.... while they both size the housing bore, it's two processes that use different machines for different purposes, and end up with different results.
Now instead of taking my advice and going off to educate yourself about the differences between those two processes so that you might see your mistake, you came back in here to imply that I was pressuring the OP into a process that he does not need. Obviously that's factually incorrect to anyone who can read this thread, and its unfortunate and sad that you obviously have no desire to learn, but rather suffer from some mental deficiency that results in you feeling the need to tell professionals who build more motors in a week than you have in your life that they are wrong and you are right.
I honestly feel sorry for you.
"no performance engine builder would ever say that" when i just reference the Chevy Power Manual/Catalog? The real "fact of the matter" is your a two face lier and you continue make personal attacks on whatever and anything i may say - at everyone else's expense. U take 5 paragraphs to attack me that does nothing for young Chet. Like a guy that can hardy afford new pistons is gonn'a pull a 0.0001" Sunnen bore gauge out of his pocket.
The Chevy Power Manual explains what needs to be done in one small paragraph and i hope Chet can buy a used one for 5 bucks or he can PM me for the quote if he wants.
I would post it for him here but it would only get personal attacks again from the self claimed experts here. No, i haven't backed myself into a corner as my accuser says. I just don't have the time to waste on butthurt mentalities of such low self esteem that have nothing better to do than make personal attacks.
What a waste of my time having to defend every statement i make because we have a moderator that doesn't want to do his job.
He could of stopped the personal attacks in post #25 but now everyone has to listen to some butthurt lamebrain run his mouth on and on with personal attacks on me that does nothing for the original poster. Like in my 40 years of owning muscle cars i haven't experienced enough bad machine work to talk about it here.
But at least i can sleep at night knowing i may have well saved a new enthusiast from cheesy machine work and sloppy vlv timing. I won't have to worry 'bout hundreds of blocks that may now be the worse for my advice or received money for machine work not needed.
Well i don't feel sorry for you but maybe for the people that have to work with your big mouth everyday - that is if you do have a job,
cardo0
10-05-2012, 01:22 AM
#42
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,001
Re: Bearing Clearances
Then what did u say in post #25? "no performance engine builder would ever say that" when i just reference the Chevy Power Manual/Catalog? The real "fact of the matter" is your a two face lier and you continue make personal attacks on whatever and anything i may say - at everyone else's expense. U take 5 paragraphs to attack me that does nothing for young Chet. Like a guy that can hardy afford new pistons is gonn'a pull a 0.0001" Sunnen bore gauge out of his pocket. The Chevy Power Manual explains what needs to be done in one small paragraph and i hope Chet can buy a used one for 5 bucks or he can PM me for the quote if he wants. I would post it for him here but it would only get personal attacks again from the self claimed experts here. No, i haven't backed myself into a corner as my accuser says. I just don't have the time to waste on butthurt mentalities of such low self esteem that have nothing better to do than make personal attacks.
What a waste of my time having to defend every statement i make because we have a moderator that doesn't want to do his job. He could of stopped the personal attacks in post #25 but now everyone has to listen to some butthurt lamebrain run his mouth on and on with personal attacks on me that does nothing for the original poster. Like in my 40 years of owning muscle cars i haven't experienced enough bad machine work to talk about it here. But at least i can sleep at night knowing i may have well saved a new enthusiast from cheesy machine work and sloppy vlv timing. I won't have to worry 'bout hundreds of blocks that may now be the worse for my advice or received money for machine work not needed.
Well i don't feel sorry for you but maybe for the people that have to work with your big mouth everyday - that is if you do have a job,
cardo0
"no performance engine builder would ever say that" when i just reference the Chevy Power Manual/Catalog? The real "fact of the matter" is your a two face lier and you continue make personal attacks on whatever and anything i may say - at everyone else's expense. U take 5 paragraphs to attack me that does nothing for young Chet. Like a guy that can hardy afford new pistons is gonn'a pull a 0.0001" Sunnen bore gauge out of his pocket. The Chevy Power Manual explains what needs to be done in one small paragraph and i hope Chet can buy a used one for 5 bucks or he can PM me for the quote if he wants. I would post it for him here but it would only get personal attacks again from the self claimed experts here. No, i haven't backed myself into a corner as my accuser says. I just don't have the time to waste on butthurt mentalities of such low self esteem that have nothing better to do than make personal attacks.What a waste of my time having to defend every statement i make because we have a moderator that doesn't want to do his job.
He could of stopped the personal attacks in post #25 but now everyone has to listen to some butthurt lamebrain run his mouth on and on with personal attacks on me that does nothing for the original poster. Like in my 40 years of owning muscle cars i haven't experienced enough bad machine work to talk about it here. But at least i can sleep at night knowing i may have well saved a new enthusiast from cheesy machine work and sloppy vlv timing. I won't have to worry 'bout hundreds of blocks that may now be the worse for my advice or received money for machine work not needed.Well i don't feel sorry for you but maybe for the people that have to work with your big mouth everyday - that is if you do have a job,
cardo0
10-05-2012, 04:39 AM
#43
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Woodstown, NJ
Posts: 4,154
Re: Bearing Clearances
I don't think he'll ever learn. Sad to see him go. 
...sort of.
...sort of.
10-05-2012, 10:35 AM
#44
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Kissimmee, Fl, USA
Posts: 1,942
Re: Bearing Clearances
I found three references to align-boning on Google, which I did because I never heard the term before...even with 40 years of experience with muscle toys. I'm no machinist so I wasn't surprised to hear a term that I hadn't come across.
Anyway, the three references applied to something in Road construction, something to do with dresses and an old article referring to a shop in Abilene Texas that was doing both processes on the same machine. It could be my search skills but it doesn't seem to be a term used frequently.
So, back to the subject at hand. It really doesn't cost much to have a machine shop measure the block and give an estimate of what's needed. All this talk about bad and cheating machinists isn't really a meaningful argument if no machine work is necessary. I've rebuilt only 7 engines over the years (8 if you count the one in my land rover...but I don't LOL) and have taken each block to a reputable machine shop where I lived at the time. Each one was recommended to me. interestingly, each one asked to see the bearings and measured the main bore alignment....which I associated with a thorough exam. In 5 cases the shops said an align bore wasn't necessary but a hone was. In the other two cases the shops recommended a bore job and showed me why......the bores weren't straight. So what's the point? You can be ripped off by an unscrupulous machinist but YOU have to allow it. If you do the research on the process and the provider and ask for explanations you won't be taken.
One other thing....the 'slop' in the timing chain in the align bored engines with new timing gears and chain was far less than the slop in the stock engine with used components. they were Pontiac 400's with the famous nylon tipped gears that were crap from the factory.....
Since this thread is clearly out of hand I won't bother replying anymore...it's not like I can actually add anything to the technical aspects of the machining...
Anyway, the three references applied to something in Road construction, something to do with dresses and an old article referring to a shop in Abilene Texas that was doing both processes on the same machine. It could be my search skills but it doesn't seem to be a term used frequently.
So, back to the subject at hand. It really doesn't cost much to have a machine shop measure the block and give an estimate of what's needed. All this talk about bad and cheating machinists isn't really a meaningful argument if no machine work is necessary. I've rebuilt only 7 engines over the years (8 if you count the one in my land rover...but I don't LOL) and have taken each block to a reputable machine shop where I lived at the time. Each one was recommended to me. interestingly, each one asked to see the bearings and measured the main bore alignment....which I associated with a thorough exam. In 5 cases the shops said an align bore wasn't necessary but a hone was. In the other two cases the shops recommended a bore job and showed me why......the bores weren't straight. So what's the point? You can be ripped off by an unscrupulous machinist but YOU have to allow it. If you do the research on the process and the provider and ask for explanations you won't be taken.
One other thing....the 'slop' in the timing chain in the align bored engines with new timing gears and chain was far less than the slop in the stock engine with used components. they were Pontiac 400's with the famous nylon tipped gears that were crap from the factory.....
Since this thread is clearly out of hand I won't bother replying anymore...it's not like I can actually add anything to the technical aspects of the machining...
10-05-2012, 04:49 PM
#45
Administrator
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,825
Re: Bearing Clearances
Corrective action will be taken.