parkers Z28

280 that's it its got to do better than that i see that your getting
309 with 1.7 &pulleys anyone else what to take a guess

lt1-xjs

You may have overlooked some of my mods. I have the light weight dampner set, 1.7 nsa on 7/16 studs, beehive springs, chromoly pushrods, 160* stat, ewp, headers, X pipe with mandral bent duals, Magnaflows, the imfamous airfoil, cai system and a tune. I did'nt make 300 rwhp until I switched from 1.6's to the 1.7's. The real test is the track, a 300 rwhp F- body should run 12.5x or better.

Orr89rocz

My buddy's 95 with just 3.73's, headers/catback, 1.6 rockers, tune, and air intake mods went 12.96 at 106.9 mph on a good air night...full weight, stock auto trans, stock stall, and on regular street tires with a lower mid 1.9's 60 ft. I had a hard time believing it but I was there and saw it go. Car was a runner for being mild bolt ons. I'd say it was up there in HP. 290's likely.

parkers Z28

i also have a 160 thermostat ,air foil ,tower brace that's not in my Sig
is there anymore bolt on's that will get me to 300 or is 280-290 rwhp the max

parkers Z28

got car back 296rwhp still need some help but first i going to burn the road up
thanks for the help so far

parkers Z28

car feels like i have 100 more horsepower the tune, rockers, springs made
a big difference !!! love it missing a few more bolt on's anyone know anything
about the electric water pump ??

dzltek

Thats awesome, glad youre happy with it. Seems like it really came alive for ya! Enjoy, and try not to get any tickets!!! lol

96capricemgr

IMO leave the electric pump for the cars looking for that last .1 at the track. Despite all the talk to the contrary the free up power by moving LESS water. They are more likely to fail particularly without warning than a stocker.

They have their place but IMO people are too quick to jump on that bandwagon based on a huge amount of missinformation posted about them.

Get your sig completely updated. I would look at something more like a stall or TB at this point

parkers Z28

thanks for the help on the water pump i had my concerns about it
i will update my Sig whene i get home

parkers Z28

OK that's out the way now on to the cam,stall and what ever still want to keep it
as a driver/weekend warrior no budget anymore have to make the budget
I know nothing about the cam. but I want one that's it . and now i might spray it
don't know if that has anything to do with the cam I'm assuming it does??
horsepower is like some other things in life once you get a little you want some more LOL

Orr89rocz

I have had the electric water pump thing on my car for last 2 years and its got its perks and its got its downfalls. I have had one fail on me WELL before I ever reached the operating lifespan (2500+ hrs or whatever it was). Lucky me I was watching my temp gauge and saw it go from 200 to 220 in about 5 seconds.... shut down immediately. Also lucky I was coming back from a 45 min cruise and it died 1 mile from my house on a small town road where I could shut down, coast to a stop and pull off road.

Had another pump develop problems with alittle corrosion in the water system since I ran pure water.... rust I guess got into the motor and it makes some noise but still moves water.... I dont trust it and will be going back to conventional pump.

They do increase hp alittle bit. Guy just posted some incredible gains IMO when he switched to electric pump and manual S10 steering rack. Went 12.67 at 106 before swap and then 12.28 at 109 after.... some of that gain is weather related but 3mph is a strong gain regardless for just parasitic loss.

Meziere makes a pump thats 55 gpm flow...one of the highest available these days. Suppose to be good for motors over 650 hp. I ran the CSR 35-37gpm pump and with good cooling fans, I was able to keep my twin turbo 400" motor cool on even 90 deg days. Cool as in it would stay under 210 deg F Staying stopped for long would make me nervous so keep moving and it stayed 200 or less on hottest days. But turbo motors run alot hotter than n/a. And at the track running high 9's it kept it cool during the run. I didnt see that much temp rise so they can work ok.

A street car you drive alot however it is something you have to CONSTANTLY keep an eye on. Burn the pump out and your motor could be gone in a matter of seconds

96capricemgr

The SAE data says the LT1 pump takes like 11hp to turn the pump 6000rpm and move 66gpm against the restriction of the system. If you do the math on cam rpm then the waterpump drive gear ratio this ends up about 4800 engine rpm. The electrics are under .2hp(look it up 8 amps at 13.5 volts) and are rated UNRESTRICTED.

Many folks have found that with an A4 and 4.10s(elevated engine rpm) cruise temp can actually be higher with the electric than the mechanical pump.

Seeing the SAE data on what the mechanical pump takes to turn definitely shows there is room to gain power at the wheels with an electric. I just harp on it because so so many people love to spout missinfomation about how they do more work with less input power despite additional energy form changes which is inefficient.

I really don't think it worth the expense, hassle and risk for a street car though. The mechanical can fail too but the vast majority of the time it begins a slow weep which you notice as the power steering acting a little funny because the drip is making the belt slip and this will begin LONG before the pump completely pukes allowing you to fix it before it strands you..

Orr89rocz

Is there an easy way to do serpentine belts on the LT1 with electric pump? I had to run the 550 buck March performance setup on my sbc which only has alternator and power steering.... grossly overpriced but it looked nice

Like I said, that electric pump failed instantly and silently....never would have noticed if it wasnt for me constantly watching my gauges since the car is so heavily modded things can go wrong at any time.

I cant wait to see how the car works with conventional high flow pump vs the old electric. Same rad and fans but the setup is completely different so its not apples to apples. new heads/cam/tune/turbo exhaust will likely change things. The turbo's were very hot and i have since moved them away from the heads, so i think that will help keep oil and water around that area cooler

96capricemgr

What do you mean? The LT1 mechanical pump is not belt driven anyway so it does not affect the existing serpentine belt atall. Heck a lot of us will pull the belt for a few passes at the track so long as you have a good battery and enough arm strength to make the return road pass it is good for another .1 at the track.

Orr89rocz

Oh thats right, pumps driven off the cam... I keep forgetting that.