BEST guide for INTAKE LEAK FIX.....
07-25-2003, 10:26 AM
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 27,714
Pep Boys sells the Lisle tool. Much faster to disconnect the fuel pipes than mess with the rail and injectors, IMO.
07-25-2003, 11:29 AM
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Toledo, OH
Posts: 1,017
Originally posted by atljar
Taking off the fuel lines is just going to cost you time. Unbolt the rail, slide the wiring harness behind the intake manifold and shcrader valve, the move away. It will give you plenty of room to remove the intake.
Taking off the fuel lines is just going to cost you time. Unbolt the rail, slide the wiring harness behind the intake manifold and shcrader valve, the move away. It will give you plenty of room to remove the intake.
I'm not quite sure what makes the Lisle set so much better. They seem to be longer, and I think that's it. The OEM set doesn't protrude far enough into the fuel line to disconnect the tabs. Trust me, I wasted a whole night messing with that piece of ****. Then I bought the Lisle set and they came right off. Right after I did it, another member had the same experience.
07-25-2003, 12:08 PM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Crossville, TN
Posts: 486
I just did this fix. Tip one: put the back of the manifold on first. The oil pressure thingy back there wont allow you to put it on by putting the front on first, or even putting the intake back on level. Tip two: use a good amount of rtv. Look at brents guide. Use about that much. I didnt and may be regretting it. Tip three: try to find a someone aquainted with the colored set of fuel line disconnect tools. The lisle set is nice to have, but i had to get the colored set. I had spent 3 hours trying to get it off. My dad friend came by, used the same tool, and got them off in about 20 seconds for both. Just know what you are doing there i guess
Tip four: take everything off the manifold, including injectors. This makes everything much easier to get to. Last tip: keep the egr valve on to help you remove and replace the intake, makes a nifty little handle.
Tip four: take everything off the manifold, including injectors. This makes everything much easier to get to. Last tip: keep the egr valve on to help you remove and replace the intake, makes a nifty little handle.
07-25-2003, 12:40 PM
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: DeKalb, IL
Posts: 4,577
Originally posted by PatriotTA
I agree with shoebox here. If you have the proper tools (Lisle set) it will take you litterally 30 seconds per line. The engine bay is already cramped and you should clear as much room as possible. Plus, I had fuel leaking out of my fuel rail even after I took off the gas cap and bled fuel from the schrader valve. You don't want fuel spilling in your engine bay.
I'm not quite sure what makes the Lisle set so much better. They seem to be longer, and I think that's it. The OEM set doesn't protrude far enough into the fuel line to disconnect the tabs. Trust me, I wasted a whole night messing with that piece of ****. Then I bought the Lisle set and they came right off. Right after I did it, another member had the same experience.
I agree with shoebox here. If you have the proper tools (Lisle set) it will take you litterally 30 seconds per line. The engine bay is already cramped and you should clear as much room as possible. Plus, I had fuel leaking out of my fuel rail even after I took off the gas cap and bled fuel from the schrader valve. You don't want fuel spilling in your engine bay.
I'm not quite sure what makes the Lisle set so much better. They seem to be longer, and I think that's it. The OEM set doesn't protrude far enough into the fuel line to disconnect the tabs. Trust me, I wasted a whole night messing with that piece of ****. Then I bought the Lisle set and they came right off. Right after I did it, another member had the same experience.
but wow, the lines came off in less than 30 seconds for both. The price was a little much, but in the long run, the tool is definetely worth it. If I ever do the fix again, I won't hesitate for a second to disconnect the lines.
07-25-2003, 01:02 PM
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 3,068
Ah to each his/her own. I have disconnected the fuel lines, and i have also just moved the entire rail out of the way. For me moving the rail was much easier, plus you dont have to buy the tool. 
07-26-2003, 10:04 PM
#23
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Upstate, NY (Albany area)
Posts: 3,615
Its finally done and over with..... I'm sure some of you guys/gals seen my horror posts.... stupid vac lines. I should have labeled them, other then that everything else went smooth as hell. the OEM fuel line set, NO PROBLEM, you just put it on, push the fuel line towards the connecter then push the connecter into it and they both came off easy as hell..... I just wanted to say thank you to everyone who posts and helped me out, VERY VERY VERY HELPFUL YOU GUYS ARE!!!!! THANK YOU!!!!!
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