Break-In Period...
02-05-2008, 06:33 PM
#31
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: dallas tx
Posts: 387
30k to seat rings
you must be the new guy in the shop
engine braking is a pretty important part of engine break-in, and i am pretty sure almost every book i have read has included that as an important part of the procces. i would be suprised if it did not say to do that in your infinity shop manual "accelerate to 60mph let off and alow the engine to slow you to 30 and repeat" or something like that
you must be the new guy in the shop
engine braking is a pretty important part of engine break-in, and i am pretty sure almost every book i have read has included that as an important part of the procces. i would be suprised if it did not say to do that in your infinity shop manual "accelerate to 60mph let off and alow the engine to slow you to 30 and repeat" or something like that
also i was not refering to the intial seating of the rings but more the time it takes the rings to become compleetly seated. most vq35 engines will burn oil for anwhere between 15 and 30k. people complain of oil consumption at 10k when there rings are not fully seated. they come back at 30k and the oil consumption dissapears. you can somtimes even tell by sotp feel when the rings finally seat on one of our cars. and its not at 500 miles, more like 20 to 30k. all cars are different i was meerly tring to share my experience with somthing different than people around here are familliar with.
as far as engine braking goes people could argue untill they are blue in the face. when you focefully raise the engine rpm with the throttle blades close, such as in engine braking, you crate a much stronger vacum in the cylinder on the intake stroke. this will pull crankcase gasses and oil into the cylinder, even more on an engine with rings that are not fully seated. this is where the oil consumption problems come from that are associated with engine braking.
02-06-2008, 09:25 AM
#34
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Houston(clear lake)
Posts: 869
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I am going to go with this guys route also. It seems make good sense.
I am going to go with this guys route also. It seems make good sense.
02-06-2008, 10:34 AM
#35
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,525
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I am going to go with this guys route also. It seems make good sense.
I am going to go with this guys route also. It seems make good sense.
02-06-2008, 10:38 AM
#36
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Solar system/earth/canada/quebec
Posts: 873
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I am going to go with this guys route also. It seems make good sense.
I am going to go with this guys route also. It seems make good sense.
Ive break all my previous motor with this method with my last car(talon 4g63t) and every guy that i know use this method and all their motor are perfect.
02-06-2008, 01:03 PM
#37
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Western,KY (home of beech bend raceway!)
Posts: 225
you know guys.........the more i read that article (which is about the tenth time) the more he seems to not be saying REEM THE h** outta it, seems as though he's saying just drive it. I mean most of us all drive our sports cars like he basically saying most of the time. The article totally makes sense even though i've been scared to test his theory by his book, I have not "babied" my car. During shifting i will take my car (now) up to 4 grand sometimes before I shift, and have been letting it decerlate on it's own. I checked my oil last nite and it was fine.
-One thing I haven't saw is he never says how long really to do this technique of driving. He does say the first 20 miles is most important, but that's about it. Oh well just saying the guy has a good point even though he's right it is against the grain and it's hard to take that high dollar engine and treat it like that.
-One thing I haven't saw is he never says how long really to do this technique of driving. He does say the first 20 miles is most important, but that's about it. Oh well just saying the guy has a good point even though he's right it is against the grain and it's hard to take that high dollar engine and treat it like that.
02-07-2008, 02:49 AM
#42
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,174
Well, just don't sweat it: Gear heads have been jabbering about how to break in engines since there have been engines. All this talk about the "honing" tedchniques, etc. Hey these things are built on an assembly line and nothing is going to be perfect, including cylinder honing. If there was some kind of magical break-in formula, you'd think that the engineers and manufacturer's would let you know exactly what to do and you wouldn't have to belong to a special site or club to learn the truth.
I once drove a brand new MGB the first 500 miles on a turnpike and never went over 50 mph. Why? Because I was 23 years old and that's what I was advised to do. Even so, it didn't seem to hurt anything. So don't worry about the small stuff. Some of these guys who broke their cars in ***** to the wall style, probably did the right thing. By the same token, they too will wind up rebuilding at one point or another----why do you think professional racers have the cars rebuilt after each race----and dragsters, even after each run.
How ever you drive your car for the first few miles, whether new or rebuilt is the way the rings are going to seat. You can't undo it. And unless, you really baby the thing to the point that you aren't working the rings and cylinders hard enough to seat decently, don't worry about it because you certainly aren't going to ruin your engine to the point that you have to rebuild it.
As far as running it and cooling it, I wouldn't worry about that too much. That, as I understand, is what you would do if your engine was heating up to the point that you are glazing the cly walls, thus preventing any kind of good ring seating. Maybe if you broke it in on a Chassis Dyno, I can see cooling it down since a non-moving vehicle is likely to heat up much faster than a moving one.
And...since the newer cars take less time/milage to seat the springs, in many instances these cars have already been driven a few miles, and you really don't know whether they were ragged on or babied anyway.
Bottom line: I would listen to the majority who claim that you should not baby the car OR beat the hell out of it, but you should understand that it is important to seat the comp rings correctly from the beginning in order to ensure a good seal and be confident that your engine will probably run better and last longer.
It's not rocket surgery, just do it and don't worry about it. JMHO
I once drove a brand new MGB the first 500 miles on a turnpike and never went over 50 mph. Why? Because I was 23 years old and that's what I was advised to do. Even so, it didn't seem to hurt anything. So don't worry about the small stuff. Some of these guys who broke their cars in ***** to the wall style, probably did the right thing. By the same token, they too will wind up rebuilding at one point or another----why do you think professional racers have the cars rebuilt after each race----and dragsters, even after each run.
How ever you drive your car for the first few miles, whether new or rebuilt is the way the rings are going to seat. You can't undo it. And unless, you really baby the thing to the point that you aren't working the rings and cylinders hard enough to seat decently, don't worry about it because you certainly aren't going to ruin your engine to the point that you have to rebuild it.
As far as running it and cooling it, I wouldn't worry about that too much. That, as I understand, is what you would do if your engine was heating up to the point that you are glazing the cly walls, thus preventing any kind of good ring seating. Maybe if you broke it in on a Chassis Dyno, I can see cooling it down since a non-moving vehicle is likely to heat up much faster than a moving one.
And...since the newer cars take less time/milage to seat the springs, in many instances these cars have already been driven a few miles, and you really don't know whether they were ragged on or babied anyway.
Bottom line: I would listen to the majority who claim that you should not baby the car OR beat the hell out of it, but you should understand that it is important to seat the comp rings correctly from the beginning in order to ensure a good seal and be confident that your engine will probably run better and last longer.
It's not rocket surgery, just do it and don't worry about it. JMHO
Bubba,you've been a member here for 10 years or so,how come you don't chime in more often?Your advice is pretty much take it to the bank.Many thanks.(Formally Fatdog1).
02-07-2008, 07:54 AM
#43
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: fort worth/burleson Tx
Posts: 1,511
02-07-2008, 08:11 AM
#44
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Western,KY (home of beech bend raceway!)
Posts: 225
well we appreciate that-I did do a search before posting about this, I'm not new to this board by any means....let's see almost 7 years worth, but in the search I found some helpful information but none pertaining to some topics that I wanted to touch on, therefore, I posted a new thread. Now what upsets me about ppl. like that they seem to not understand as to what this board is about. It's here to help people and discuss things-yes they are going to be repeated topics, BUT with new threads comes new information that new people bring to that topic because as time passes, information changes, new ppl. join, etc...so it's okay to repeat things every so often, besides if EVERYONE used the search all the time, this board would be absolute wouldn't it????????? i'm sorry i can't believe i'm running my post count up arguing and explaining why I posted a topic that has already been posted about more than once in the past 10 years of this forum. Guys for all of you that posted helpful info PLEASE SKIP THIS POST AND DON'T READ because it's wasting your time and you could be helping others on here!!!
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