AndyB

Alright I'm thinking about pulling the motor the winter and freshening it up since I just past the 100k mark. While I am there I was thinking of doing a simple budget 383. And after extensive use of the search button heres the plan

Scat 3.75 crank
Scat 4340 6.0 Rods
KB dished Pistons (CR somewhere around 10.5-11.0)
new rings and bearings
Combination Motorsports Stage 1 iron heads (this is for a b-body)
CC305 with stock rockers
Moroso High Volume Oil Pump
New Lifters/pushrods
Reuse anything else deemed reusable

I'm trying to eliminate all unnecessary cost so I was thinking of ommiting the following items (only if the orginal block is still within specs and wont need the work)
Line Bore
Staying with a standard bore and going with a 377 and just honing the cylinders

I'll have the machine shop hot tank the block, externally balance the assembly, clearance the block. Install new cam bearings and freeze plugs and assemble the shortblock. I'll finish up the top end assembly.

My goal for this motor is first and for most reliability and drivability as this is my daily 60 miles a day daily driver. But I don't want to spend more money than I need. Its not going to see any track time or any abnormal abuse other than daily driving. I'm not looking for the most horepower just a nice torquey drivable motor.

Will this combo work? I'm I forgetting anything important? any suggestions

treyZ28

it its fine, just leave it. then rebuild it. unless it shows signs of problems, why the **** would you want to rebuild it if its not for a performance application

AndyB

Preventive Maintance since I am currently running the CC305 cam on a stock 100k mile motor. I rather rebuild it now and throw in a few extra cubes to increase the torque. Rather than waiting for the motor to blow and risk the chance of wiping out parts I would like to reuse.

treyZ28

you worry too much

unless you are turning 6500 rpms constantly or spraying or running forced induction- i wouldn't worry for HALF A SECOND. Guys are running a LOT more power than you with a LOT more miles and a LOT more than you. You dont rebuild for preventive maintance unless its a trans or something like that.

youre replacing everything in a rebuild anyway

Teal94Z

I agree, if its not broke, don't fix it. There are plenty of heads/cam guys out there running on the stock shortblock with no problems at all. 100k is nothing for an LT1 that has been properly maintained...Luke

Dave Feerst

I would imagine 10.5 -11 CR pistons would all be flot top, If you ever, and I mean ever plan on doing more with this car (N2O/ FI) get some better forged pistons. they are the only weak link in the rotating assembly. With some JE or ROSS or BME pistons in there if you decide to put a 150 shot on it down the road you can, you are also less susceptable to detonation and it only costs you an extra 100-200$ I would personally not use a high volume oil pan on a motor like that, but if you are getting a bigger pan it would be ok. Dont forget to add the cost of all of the other stuff you are gonna replace when budgeting for this, probibly plugs, wires, a gasket set. You didnt say what springs you have, make sure you get springs to handle the cam..... It really isnt safe to take stock rockers past 6000. I know some guys do it, but the whole reason GM went with the 1.6 alumnium roller is they saw problems with the stamped ones over 6000, Im guessing the cc305 will want to to rev past that. I would consider. dishing it our for 1.6 RRs and some springs (your lift is higher now). the lift doesnt effect streetability much, LSA does that. Stay with 112-114.... Your stock windage tray wont work with the 383 crank. you will need a moroso or other aftermarket one.... good luck....