Cam Install Help Needed?
02-16-2009, 10:15 PM
#16
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Location: Little Rock, AR
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I was using GMPD as a lookup. They still show the old price. The newgmparts.com site showed them at $120.21. Found another place selling them for $111.10 with estimated $20 shipping.
02-16-2009, 10:17 PM
#17
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02-16-2009, 10:22 PM
#18
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There were two Felpro gaskets available. Not sure which one you were referring to. One was a multi piece for around $20 and the other was the single piece for $40. I was told the gasket can be a PITA to align and seal from under the car. I figured the single piece would be much easier to install. The lifters have gone up in price. I checked SDickens and GMPartsDirect first. I did pay a bit more on the shaft I guess. Luckily the shiping was a single $11 handling fee for everything. I appreciate your help with the pricing though.
I still have to read up on the specifics of hub removal. Some have used a hammer and piece of wood from underneath and behind. I'm going to try the puller in the picture above first. What about reinstallation?
I still have to read up on the specifics of hub removal. Some have used a hammer and piece of wood from underneath and behind. I'm going to try the puller in the picture above first. What about reinstallation?
You can't use hammer and wood to remove the hub. Search for hub installation. It was just covered recently (and often).
02-18-2009, 04:51 PM
#19
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Some more questions:
Do I really have to wait 24 hours for the RTV to cure on the intake manifold or is there a quick drying RTV I can use?
I already have an electric water pump installed but I left the coupler and everything else on the block side. How do I remove the coupler and whatever else is on the block side before and after removeing the timing cover? What else has to come off? The picture below is how it looks now except that the EWP has been reinstalled in front of it. Someone told me what size freeze plug was needed for the hole in the timing cover and now I cant find it. Does anyone know? I'd rather do it that way than using a half dollar and JB weld.
Do I really have to wait 24 hours for the RTV to cure on the intake manifold or is there a quick drying RTV I can use?
I already have an electric water pump installed but I left the coupler and everything else on the block side. How do I remove the coupler and whatever else is on the block side before and after removeing the timing cover? What else has to come off? The picture below is how it looks now except that the EWP has been reinstalled in front of it. Someone told me what size freeze plug was needed for the hole in the timing cover and now I cant find it. Does anyone know? I'd rather do it that way than using a half dollar and JB weld.
02-18-2009, 07:20 PM
#20
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Location: Kernersville, NC
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Man, if possible, you need to clean every bit of that dirt off the covers and front of the engine before pulling the timing cover.
The coupler just slides off, but it could be seized to the waterpump drive gear.
The coupler just slides off, but it could be seized to the waterpump drive gear.
02-18-2009, 07:22 PM
#21
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Location: Kernersville, NC
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Use "The Right Stuff" on everything except the timing cover, timing cover gasket, and water pump gasket. Follow the directions on the can.
For the timing cover, timing cover gasket, and water pump gasket, apply a thin coat of Permatex #2 with your finger....just lightly coat the gasket, cover, and block surface.
I used Permatex #2 on the curved portions of the oil pan, but wished I had used "The Right Stuff". It is now leaking on both ends of the pan. I think the right stuff is better for the oil pan application. I used "The Right Stuff" on the intake and have zero leaks.
For the timing cover, timing cover gasket, and water pump gasket, apply a thin coat of Permatex #2 with your finger....just lightly coat the gasket, cover, and block surface.
I used Permatex #2 on the curved portions of the oil pan, but wished I had used "The Right Stuff". It is now leaking on both ends of the pan. I think the right stuff is better for the oil pan application. I used "The Right Stuff" on the intake and have zero leaks.
Last edited by ACE1252; 04-15-2009 at 03:18 PM.
02-18-2009, 08:07 PM
#22
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Use "The Right Stuff" on everything except the timing cover, timing cover gasket, and water pump gasket. Follow the directions on the can.
For the timing cover, timing cover gasket, and water pump gasket, apply a thin coat of Permatex #2 with your finger....just lightly coat the gasket, cover, and block surface.
I used Permatex #2 on the curved portions of the oil pan, but wished I had used "The Right Stuff". I think it's better for the oil pan application. I used "The Right Stuff" on the intake and have zero leaks.
For the timing cover, timing cover gasket, and water pump gasket, apply a thin coat of Permatex #2 with your finger....just lightly coat the gasket, cover, and block surface.
I used Permatex #2 on the curved portions of the oil pan, but wished I had used "The Right Stuff". I think it's better for the oil pan application. I used "The Right Stuff" on the intake and have zero leaks.
Permatex® the Right Stuff® Gasket Maker
Return equipment to service immediately when you make leak-proof gaskets in just one minute with the Right Stuff.® This latest elastomeric rubber gasket technology is blowout resistant and outperforms pre-cut gaskets. Specified on production lines by GM, Ford, DaimlerChrysler and Mercedes-Benz. Temperature range -75°F to 450°F (-59°C to 232°C) continuous, 500°F (260°C) intermittent.; resists ATF, coolant, oil and other shop fluids. Protects against leaks caused by vibration and thermal expansion. Sensor-safe.
Suggested Applications: Automotive and marine gaskets, valve covers, gearbox covers, pumps, compressors, oil pans, thermostat housings, water pumps
Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 2 Sealant
Slow-drying, non-hardening sealant designed for sealing cut gaskets and stamped parts. Allows for easy disassembly if required. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists common shop fluids and fuels. Use where sealing is more important than adhesion.
Suggested Applications: Valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets
02-19-2009, 12:40 AM
#25
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The best part is I think the special grease coating on there helped protect the opti when the water pump seal broke. It was leaking for months until I installed the EWP and the opti never gave my any trouble. At one point I was adding a gallon every few days.
02-19-2009, 10:09 AM
#26
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Damn shoebox. I've been looking over your website. That is one hell of a write up you did there. I was going to do one for the y-body when I was done but after looking at yours I dont think its needed. That is going to help a lot. Thanks for putting the time into it.
02-20-2009, 06:41 AM
#28
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Location: Little Rock, AR
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If the rockers are backed off before you turn the crank, there will be no possibility of any valve to piston contact, if that is what you are worried about.
02-20-2009, 07:36 AM
#29
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I got all my parts in now. I should be starting this evening or tomorrow. I thought my valve spring kit was supposed to come with shims and instructions for installing. It just has the springs, seats, and retainers in the package. Should I be concerned with spring height and shims?
Is cleaning, soaking, or oiling of any parts required?(rockers, lifters, springs, etc.) I've read many different opinions on that. Most say regular oil on cam journals and assembly lube on lobes. Any brand recomended? I also read dipping or soaking lifters after cleaning in some solution is common. I saw comp has a spray for the springs and rockers. I didnt see it at Autozone though.
Is there any sort of break in method needed? I read keeping it abouve 2000rpms for the first few minutes. Someone said something about using dino oil for startup. I thought that was only for a rebuild.? While I'm thinking of it, whats the best grade mobile 1 to use at 114k miles?
What size vacuum lines do I need for the opti? One of them is cut.
Last edited by rickreeves1; 02-20-2009 at 10:02 AM.
02-21-2009, 09:54 PM
#30
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Does anyone have an easy way to get the hub off? The ybody has a frame rail in the way. The smaller three jaw puller wont fit in the space. I have a harbor freight puller kit with various bolt sizes but its too tight of a space to use the center bolt it came with the other three bolts are also the wrong size. I went to Lowes to get a few other sizes of bolts to try. We'll see how it goes tomorrow. Any other ideas?
I was told only timing geat is keyed. If the hub is not keyed to go on only one way how do I make sure it's reinstalled in the correct position to reinstall the balancer in the correct position?
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Earlier today...
I was told only timing geat is keyed. If the hub is not keyed to go on only one way how do I make sure it's reinstalled in the correct position to reinstall the balancer in the correct position?
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Earlier today...