Danny McAdams

If you are trying to pull the hub in then photo above, STOP you are not pulling you're pushing.

rickreeves1

What a PITA! It took about four different bolt sizes and adjustments. I broke the first puller and had to run to the auto store for a new one and some more bolt sizes and nuts. It took the whole day just to get the hub and timing cover off. I drained the oil pan and ubolted just the first six bolts on it to drop the front. I also had to remove the three bolts holding the power steering resovoir. It was enough to get the timing cover off. Tomorrow I will finnaly be ablt to pull the timing gears and chain and swap the cam. I'm going to first remove the intake and valve covers so I can remove the lifters, pushrods, and roller rockers. I set the circle on the crank timing gear at 12 o' clock and the cam timing gear is at 6 o' clock. I'm going to undo the 3 bolts on the cam gear and hopefully it will slide off easy. Then I can pull the old cam and install the new cam. Then I am going to slide my coyles gears and chain on in the same position. Circle of crank gear at 12 o' clock and circle of cam gear at 6 o clock. Does that sound correct? Whats the best method for getting the hub back on after the timing cover? Where can I find a longer hub bolt with the fine threads to get it back on? How do you know when the hub is completely seated I was told it has to be a grade 8 bolt.

I also went to over 5 different auto stores not one had a micrometer for sale. I tried NAPA, Autozone, Advance, Pep Boys, Oreilly, Car Quest, etc.. Do I really need to check the spring heigth on the new springs?

Todays Pics...

sbs

It is really unbelievable that you opened up your engine with all that **** on it.

You're going to end up as one of those people who thinks that 'changing a cam causes failed bearings' due to your sloppy work environment.

rickreeves1

That was yesterday just before Gunk and pressure washing.

rickreeves1

Yesterday went pretty well. I pulled the timing gears and chain. I also removed the intake, rockers, pushrods, lifters, oil pump stub, and scraped the old gaskets off. I then pulled the old cam and installed the new one. Today I'm going to put the Cloyes gears and chain on, attempt to remove the old springs and instrall the new ones, and pull all the old plugs. Then I'll install the lifters and measure for pushrod length. I'll have to order pushrods overnight shipping after measuring so I think I'm going to get pushed back until the weekend for finishing this project. I have work Thursday and Friday so I may be renting or burrowing a car for a couple of days. Thanks again for everyones help.

Here are yesterdays pictures...

2QUIK6

Yes, it would be critical to getting your springs at the correct install height.
Check out this link for a read up
http://www.powerperformancenews.com/...tech-2047.html
Here's the tool you need
http://www.compperformancegroupstore..._Code=VALVETLS

You must also know what the install height of the specific spring you have is, and what the max lift you can have before coil bind for the springs are.
Be sure that you calculate the max lift based on the cam specs and 1.6 ratio rockers, alot of cam spec cards the lift is based on 1.5 ratio.

Bottom line is to make sure the (INSTALL HEIGHT - LIFT) > (.05 + COIL BIND HEIGHT)

Forgot to add...if your install height comes up short, you can get some +.050 retainer locks which will increase the install height by .050" giving you more room for lift and keep it safely away from coil bind....you don't want to get any closer to that .050 of coil bind.

rickreeves1

Today I reinstalled the timing gears and chain. I heated the crank gear as recommended and then put the old gear and a 1.75" pipe coupler behind it. I then used a socket extension with a big socket that I was able to hammer with a small maul from in front the cross frame. So... Socket extension, big socket, flat piece of metal with handle, pipe coupler, and old gear all lined up seemed to work pretty well. I think a big socket with the right length extension would have probably worked great. Is the cam retaining plate screw supposed to be that close to my Cloyes timing gear? It spins but it's damn close. I opened up my old original opti today and I was surprised how well it help up for 118k miles and 13 years. I also pulled all the spark plugs and started to remove the first spring. The overhead compressor does not work on dual valve springs.

At that point I drove about an hour away to pick up the correct spring compressor tool. They also had a micrometer and shims. There goes another $190. They only had the expensive $100 Morel compressor in stock. :crazy: At least I can now get the correct pushrods ordered tomorrow. That is once I figure out how to measure with the pushrod length checker I bought.? Anyone? I think I get how to use the micrometer after looking at the comp link. It looks like I have to put both ends where the spring goes then unscrew until the keepers lock in on the valve. Does that sound correct? I bought various size screws as recommended to reinstall the hub but how do I keep the crank from spinnig while tightening? I used an iron brick underneath the hub when removing to keep it from spinning. I really dont want to take anything else apart. Thanks

Todays pictures...

2QUIK6

On my LT1 HD set, they were very close also, I ended up grinding a little bit off the top of the retaining screws to give it a hair more clearance.


There are several write ups on here on how to measure for pushrod length using a sharpie marks-alot to mark up the valve stem top to indicate where the roller tip is making contact, there may also be a write up on shoebox's site, not sure. Do a search.
The micrometer is placed where the spring would normally go, using the seats and retainers/locks you will be using, then unscrew the micrometer until its as tight as you can turn it. Also, if using retainers that do not fit on the top lip of the micrometer, in other words they fit down inside the lip on the "step", you'll need to factor that into the measurement by subtracting the "step amount" from the reading. The comp retainers for Beehives you have to do this, the double springs probably not. Hope this is clear what I'm saying here as it is important.


I placed a wrench on one of the flywheel bolts and lodged it up to hold the crank still. You can also lodge something in one of the flywheel holes if you have room.

rickreeves1

Yesterday went pretty well. I checked the spring height with my micrometer and everything was ok there. I then Installed all my new studs and springs. I also checked for pushrod length. Maybe someone can verify I did it correctly...

I set my pushrod length checker at the stock height of 7.200" and installed it with the roller rocker and weaker spring from Ace hardare. I could only install one side of the retainer to fit the checker in there.




I marked the top of the valve stem with a green highlighter. I then placed the rocker arm on the stud. I twisted the pushrod checker in my fingers while tightening down the rocker arm bolt. When the pushrod checker was no longer able to move I tightened the nut an additional half turn then tightened down the retainer.


I then turned the crank over by hand about four times while watching the timing mark.


I then removed the rocker arm to see where the wear pattern was on the valve stem. It was more toward the exhaust side indicating that the pushrod length was too long. I kept shortening the pushrod length checker and repeating the process until the wear patter was in the middle.


This was what the wear looked like the last time I did it. I'm bringing the pushrod checker to a local machine shop today to get it measured with a digital caliper. Most auto stores I tried did not have one long enough. I'll let you know what lenght it is.




I'm now back at work for the next two days so I wont be able to get back at it until Saturday.

Thanks

2QUIK6

Everything looks good to me on the wear pattern...but why are you having to take the adj pr to have it measured?? I've never seen one that did not have markings on it, usually 2 lines that line up, and each full turn represents .050 from the starting length that the pr was with the adj part screwed all the way in.

rickreeves1

This one has no markings on it that I see. It just extends out and has two nuts to tighten it. It's a trickflow brand TFS-9000.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

It measured 7.132 with a digital caliper at a local engine shop. I am going to order the trickflow 7.150 hardened pushrods next day shipping from Summit. That's the closest size I could find.

rickreeves1

I tried installing my lifters, pushrods, and roller rockers and adjusting for zero lash. I first brought cylinder 1 to TDC and started adjusting. I discovered that one of the rr nuts would not turn a half past once the pushrod stopped spinning. The plunger/bowl appears to be stuck on several of the lifters. How do I unstick a stuck lifter. I need to get this done this weekend. Please help.


Thanks

:cheers:

Stl94LT1

Try moving the pushrod up and down to find 0 lash.

rickreeves1

Comparing it to another lifter it looks like it is stuck in a raised position. I can't push it in with one of the pushrods like I can the other ones. No telling how long these sat on the shelf at summit.

2QUIK6

Sometimes they are pumped up pretty hard and it takes a bit of muscle to turn the nut a 1/2 turn, but you can take them apart, just pop off that retainer clip/spring by pulling it together from each side...the retainer spring is that little wire looking part on each side where the pushrod cup is on the lifter. Once the retainer clip is off (which looks like a "U" once its out) the insides should slide right out when tapped upside down. There's really not much that would keep them from collapsing unless they are prefilled with oil, It may require a blast of compressed air into the little bleeder holes to release the suction of the insides once the spring is out too.