Koby

Ok, I've searched and read, but honestly there is so much crap on this site about cams it gives me a headache. So heres the deal, my intake oil leak came back again, and I don't feel like stripping it down again for nothing, so its time for a cam. The car currently does not have any major mods, ie headers, gears, stall. They are in the very near future though. I am looking for a cam that would yeild around a 12.5 to a 12.0 even in 1/4 mile, HP doesn't mean anything. Soon after cam the Long tubes, 3.42 gears, and probably 3 or 3.5k stall will go in. What cam should I be looking at here? I've read of people with the hotcam getting those times, but it seems kinda small. How about the 305, but what is the difference in the 114 or the 112 lobe seperation?

Finally, about retainers, when would you pick titanium over steel? Obviously they are lighter, so are they more benifical to cars running higher RPMs?

Thanks guys.

seawolf06

Get all the bolt ons first, then do the cam, IMO. Titanium is lighter but it wears faster. Not usually for street cars.

theroad64

Go a little bigger than the HotCam. Its a great cam, keeps you streetable.. but with stock heads+boltons will not equal a low 12 in your heavy Fbody.

2000GTP

If you want to go a little bigger then the Hotcam, then yes, I would consider the CC305, or even the CC503, another good grind. But as mentioned above, if you don't have any supporting mods, you will be completely choking your setup.

Koby

I know the setup will be choked, but right now my car is leaking to much oil and it needs to be fixed. I don't feel like tearing the engine apart again to do a cam, so I am just going to throw it in there now. Everything else will come in a couple months. I'm not excepting the car to go 12's on the cam alone, but once everything else gets added.

seawolf06

Get the crane 227 cam or something similar. Then you can add your bolt ons as you see fit.

BUBBA

ditto on 227---3.73 in lieu of 3.42. Don't forget the springs and RRs AND make sure you do the intake leak procedure according to the tried and true method.JMHO

seawolf06

I'm with BUBBA on all points. Do not skimp on the valvetrain. You'll pay dearly for it later.

Koby

I don't plan on skimping on the valvetrain, thats part of the reason I won't have money for headers and other stuff for a couple of months. With 82k miles on my car my top end needs refreshed anyways. I was planning on some CC pro mag 1.6, beehives, maybe chromoloy pushrods, guideplates, and all new retainers, clips, etc.

seawolf06

Chromemoly pushrods, definitely! There's a big thread on the topic here somewhere. Good luck with it!

Koby

Ok, here is the guide I used last time to fix my leak.

http://www.projecttransam.com/projects2.asp

Is this the "tried and true" method? It lasted for about 5 months and then back to leaking again.

Z95m6

An intake manifold leak is nothing at all. It's probably like 1/10 of a cam swap. Did you check your PCV system out after you fixed the last leak? Thats a major cause of the leak.

Z-RATED94

Nice list of parts. While your at it, go with the ARP 7/16 rocker studs and order the 7/16 pro mag 1.6 rockers. Also get the GMPP guideplates. If you are going with the chromemoly pushrods (good idea) spend a little extra and get the CC Hi-Techs. Don't forget a new set of valve seals also. Couldn't hurt.

seawolf06

Comp, manley, trickflow, any .080" thickness wall chromemoly pushrod should be good.

SS MPSTR

lots of street cars around here have them...including mine. I'd probably balk if it was a DD, but for a relatively low annual mileage street car, there's nothing wrong with them.