Can a decent 4th Gen. Camaro be had for $5k?
#16
Of course! I found a CLEAN 94 Z28 for my GF, 85K miles, 30K on the motor/driveline.. all new opti/clutch wireing harness. car has subframes, catback. car is cherry, one door ding in the left quarter. $4500
#17
man i wish mine was reliable as some of yours...i just got mine like 3 weeks ago...visually the exterior and interior are great...but just the other day the tranny started slipping and banging insane hard with only 90k miles...i also need new pads and rotors all around, new rack and pinon, tie rods, fix an oil leak (im guessing intake manifold)....if i need a whole new tranny...well im walking for a long *** time seeing that i owe my dad $3k still on the car and a whole new tranny goes for that....
#18
Originally posted by windnsea00
man i wish mine was reliable as some of yours...i just got mine like 3 weeks ago...visually the exterior and interior are great...but just the other day the tranny started slipping and banging insane hard with only 90k miles...i also need new pads and rotors all around, new rack and pinon, tie rods, fix an oil leak (im guessing intake manifold)....if i need a whole new tranny...well im walking for a long *** time seeing that i owe my dad $3k still on the car and a whole new tranny goes for that....
man i wish mine was reliable as some of yours...i just got mine like 3 weeks ago...visually the exterior and interior are great...but just the other day the tranny started slipping and banging insane hard with only 90k miles...i also need new pads and rotors all around, new rack and pinon, tie rods, fix an oil leak (im guessing intake manifold)....if i need a whole new tranny...well im walking for a long *** time seeing that i owe my dad $3k still on the car and a whole new tranny goes for that....
-Michael
#21
Originally posted by grendal
Comparing a turbo motor to a naturally aspirated motor is like comparing apples to bags of crack rock. Heh.
Comparing a turbo motor to a naturally aspirated motor is like comparing apples to bags of crack rock. Heh.
#22
Originally posted by Dr.Mudge
I'm not just talking turbo, I can take my 73 2.4L engine NA and dump 500 HP on it as well, it will take it just fine. That likewise has been done, later turbo top end thrown on an NA shortblock. An RB26DETT is an even better choice, for those with the dough, 6 throttle bodies and all the fixins for making 600+ horsepower on a 2.6L engine.
I'm not just talking turbo, I can take my 73 2.4L engine NA and dump 500 HP on it as well, it will take it just fine. That likewise has been done, later turbo top end thrown on an NA shortblock. An RB26DETT is an even better choice, for those with the dough, 6 throttle bodies and all the fixins for making 600+ horsepower on a 2.6L engine.
hehe.. this needs a separate thread. I seriously call bullsh*t on a streetable 2.4L naturally aspirated on 70's technology making 500hp. Maybe on a road-race motor revving to 8,000-9,000rpm, but certainly not in any useable street form.
If you want to get into it, if you "throw a turbo top end" (i.e. lower compression, etc) on a Chevy 350 LT1 you can make some insane power. It's all about what the motor is built to do.... Put in forged components (which BTW, are not expensive for a 350 LT1 as they are shared with the venerable 350 SBC/Gen1), and the sky is the limit. Visit the drag strip sometime and see if Datsuns are the ones running 6's on street chassis.
-Michael
#23
Originally posted by grendal
hehe.. this needs a separate thread. I seriously call bullsh*t on a streetable 2.4L naturally aspirated on 70's technology making 500hp. Maybe on a road-race motor revving to 8,000-9,000rpm, but certainly not in any useable street form.
hehe.. this needs a separate thread. I seriously call bullsh*t on a streetable 2.4L naturally aspirated on 70's technology making 500hp. Maybe on a road-race motor revving to 8,000-9,000rpm, but certainly not in any useable street form.
In the old days you saw more forged components but less internal balancing, I have forged internals and an internally balanced engine, usual teardowns show that everything is within .5g of each other. That is how efficient these were put together, way back when.
I love my V8, but in no way, shape or form did GM match that package.
#24
Don't get a 3rd gen..get an early 4th gen. The price difference is not even worth it. Spend the extra few and get a 4th gen. My car has about 130,000 and its modded (check sig), still runs strong. You add some Hooker LT Headers, Offroad Y, cutout, RR's, drag radials/slicks your looking at high 12's, add a cam and gears your looking at mid 12's with good traction. The autos are quick (add a 2800-3200+ stall once you have headers, cam) and you will be running most likely better than the 6 speeds in the quarter. Get a 6 speed with gears and as long as you can drive your times will probably be equal with same mods (maybe a little slower), but your trapspeed in the quarter will be higher than an auto and and your highway acceleration will be better too with the 6 speed..
-Corey
-Corey
#25
The 3rd gen setup is great for making massive torque, unfortunately the T5 isn't all that robust. If you want HP you'd have to chnage the intake, or go LT1 since your on a budget, otherwise of course LS1 is king.
#27
My son just bought a really nice '93 for $5500. It has the infamous intake oil leak, but it's to be expected w/85K miles. We had been looking for some time before finding this '93. There are some deals are out there. Especially after a little snow.
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07-04-2005 05:00 PM