95z28man

I'm taking my car in to be dyno tuned within the next couple weeks and theres a few little issues I'd like to take care of myself if I can, to save some money, instead of having the shop do everything like I was originally going to.

First off I'll let you all know that we're talking about the car in my sig, the entire top end is new, from intake elbow back to the headers, headers are older though. I did all the work myself with the exception of rocker adjustment. And there is a leak at the passenger side header. Heres my issues:

1. Everytime I start the car I have to slightly tap the throttle to get it started, almost as if it had a carb. Then the car will bog down to about 400-500 rpm for a couple seconds before idling correctly at 8-900 rpm. (not sure how to adjust the TB to possibly fix this)

2. At WOT sometimes it will "redline" at like 4k and won't shift or anything, just gets "stuck" until I let off. (possibly could be due to the header leak? or fouled O2's, which I'll be replacing when I get the extensions)

3. I can't tell if it is running rich or not since I'm not sure what all to look for. But I can smell gas VERY strong inside the car and outside when I turn it on. Again this could be due to the header leak I would imagine so I don't know what else to look for, but it has me curious.

I may just leave the exhaust leak for the shop to do since the header can be a little pain to work with sometimes, but as far as the O2's and the throttle body adjustments and what not, I'd like to see if they help out before it goes in. My main concern is replacing the O2's then contaminating them again. If I am running rich will that foul them or not?

Hopefully you guys can help me out, I can't wait to get it runnning perfect again.
Thanks

blkchevyz

i';d check your fuel pressure. your pump might be going bad or clogged fuel filter.

also if your headers are leaking before or just after the o2 sensors its going to be driving the computer nuts.

dont waste your money dynoing it till you figure this out.

95z28man

Either way, it won't be dynoed until all the problems are sorted out and taken care of. The only difference is going to be the size of the bill with any other work that needed done, so I'm trying to eliminate as much of it as I can before I take it in.

Sparkz28ss

Tv detent cable maybe your shifting problem... or the tune

38# injectors... is the PCM stock ? still have the injector constant set at 24#?

if so.. dont run the car..you could was the cyl walls down... thats no good

blkchevyz

i was thinking that to but at the end of his signature it say tuned by madz

Wild1

The bog on start up is likely from your 58mm TB. Mine did that too until I adjusted the stop screw. It will pick up later due to the IAC. If you have a scanner, adjust your stop screw until your IAC reaches 20 - 40 counts. Then adjust your TPS between .45 - .7 volts. Your start up should be fine from then on.

dangalla

your iac counts are prolly going to be a little higher than that due to the cam you have, i would look for around 60

your TPS needs to be exactly .67 volts

like i told you in my thread i had to replace the o2 sensors because of the pacesetter coating burning off and contaminating them. i would fix the exhaust leak and replace them at the same time

Wild1

Why does the TPS need to be exactly .67 v? The spec is between .45 - .7 v. Right?

dangalla

dont know why, my tuner made it very clear that it was very important and i have read it a bunch of times

95z28man

To do any adjustments to the stop screw, TPS and all this, will I need to remove the intake elbow to get to anything or am I going to be able to adjust these without removing anything? Luckily I bought a scanner a while back just in case, so I can hopefully get these readings. Are they all something I will have to do while the car is running or am I gonna have to stop and start the car?

dangalla

you dont have to remove anything.

the throttle stop screw is on the drivers side of the throttle body, on the top stopping the linkage.

the TPS sensor is directly across from it on the other side

Wild1

You may not need to remove anything if you can get your allen screw in to make adjustments. On my Edelbrock 58mm TB, I had to remove the cable bracket since my tool is too big to twist.

If so, the only thing you'll need to remove would be to access the upper right stop screw on the TB. That would be the black plastic throttle cable cover, 3 screws, and the metal bracket that holds the throttle cable... and any cables attached to the black bracket.

I would recommend finding the appropriate allen screw first before things get hot and open the blade 1/4 turn since your car is bogging on start up.

Then start the car, have your scanner on, and keep adjusting the TB stop screw until the IACs are between 20-40... although Dangalla has stated 60 is about right.

Then check the TPS voltage and adjust accordingly. Loosen the 2 Torx screws and turn the TPS. You may need to open the holes a bit so that you can adjust the TPS. Then tighten.

95z28man

Alright, thanks for the walk through, if I can do it tonight I'll post the results.

dangalla

if you do it and it does not improve do not be discouraged,m having bad o2's and an exhaust leak before the o2's will cause horrible drivability and flat out make the car run like crap. good luck though and if you have any more questions be sure to ask

95z28man

At least if I do this, even if it still doesn't start right, at least I know that the TB is now setup right and can move on to the next issues. Thanks though, I'll be sure to ask if I get stuck.