Can't get Hooker LT's removed! HELP!
12-08-2006, 05:21 PM
#46
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,926
hahah i actually caught that, but i figured it had been up long enough i might as well just deal with the embarassment 
did you get them out angela? when you unbolt the engine youre gonna wish you did it along time ago, its really simple.
and about jacking on the bellhousing, i used wood as shown in the pic, it didnt hurt it at all.
I would say dudette or else she might Semper Fi on you 
did you get them out angela? when you unbolt the engine youre gonna wish you did it along time ago, its really simple.
and about jacking on the bellhousing, i used wood as shown in the pic, it didnt hurt it at all.
12-08-2006, 05:53 PM
#47
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Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Jackstandican
Posts: 3,144
coated headers suck the ***** when you live in an area that is very humid and/or uses road salt in the winter. you expose coated headers to road salt it will start bubbling in a matter of a very short time unless you thoroughly wash them off.
12-08-2006, 06:21 PM
#48
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 27
What I do with the F-Body is support the tranny with a tranny jack, undo the tranny mount and pry sideways with prybar as well as the other usual stuff you take out, starter, intermediate shaft etc.....
I have put is some massive Kooks headers this way no problems.
I have put is some massive Kooks headers this way no problems.
12-08-2006, 10:55 PM
#52
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Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Ashburn, VA
Posts: 69
Because otherwise when you raise the engine, the stand comes up with it and there's still not enough room to get the header out... if I'm remembering this correctly.
12-09-2006, 12:12 AM
#54
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Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Jackstandican
Posts: 3,144
the stand? i'm getting lost again... what stand? If you are referring to the engine mount bracket that bolts to the block it doesn't even come close to being in the way.
12-10-2006, 10:51 AM
#56
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Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Ashburn, VA
Posts: 69
I've done this at least a dozen times, and it's definitely in the way for me. I never tried going in/out the bottom, as I can't safely get the car high enough. And I suspect that I have more clearance issues than most people... A4 bellhousing, Canton pan kickouts, tall valve covers. So I think if this works for me, it should work for anyone.
12-11-2006, 07:49 AM
#57
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Henry, VA USA
Posts: 1,171
Well, we got the crazy headers off Fri. night. AND man was it a job. We could NOT get the clip joint loose, even w/ a torch. So, we had to jack the motor, and actually move it to get these out. Funny thing is, the pass. side came out pretty easy after all that. It was the driver side that caused all the pain and annoyance.
Now we have to find a way to get the slip joint out, which shouldn't take much time since it's off the car now.
Here is my question though. If we remove the slip joint, and reinstall it after they are coated, how will it not leak? I never thought of it before....but how does that area not leak? Should I have it welded up?
Now we have to find a way to get the slip joint out, which shouldn't take much time since it's off the car now.
Here is my question though. If we remove the slip joint, and reinstall it after they are coated, how will it not leak? I never thought of it before....but how does that area not leak? Should I have it welded up?
12-11-2006, 08:09 AM
#58
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Six Mile, SC, USA
Posts: 2,054
Weld it up as it is and then have it coated. If you coat and then weld you will have a spot there that is going to rust quickly.
I would get a SBC or LT1 head and attach it and have it welded. I just took mine to the local muffler shop and had the header on the head and they welded it up for $5 or nothing, cant remember. I used the head to make sure all was line up right and would not move after welding.
I would get a SBC or LT1 head and attach it and have it welded. I just took mine to the local muffler shop and had the header on the head and they welded it up for $5 or nothing, cant remember. I used the head to make sure all was line up right and would not move after welding.
12-11-2006, 08:12 AM
#59
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Henry, VA USA
Posts: 1,171
hahah i actually caught that, but i figured it had been up long enough i might as well just deal with the embarassment
did you get them out angela? when you unbolt the engine youre gonna wish you did it along time ago, its really simple.
and about jacking on the bellhousing, i used wood as shown in the pic, it didnt hurt it at all.
did you get them out angela? when you unbolt the engine youre gonna wish you did it along time ago, its really simple.
and about jacking on the bellhousing, i used wood as shown in the pic, it didnt hurt it at all.
Now to find the RIGHT people to coat these headers....
12-11-2006, 08:24 AM
#60
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Henry, VA USA
Posts: 1,171
Weld it up as it is and then have it coated. If you coat and then weld you will have a spot there that is going to rust quickly.
I would get a SBC or LT1 head and attach it and have it welded. I just took mine to the local muffler shop and had the header on the head and they welded it up for $5 or nothing, cant remember. I used the head to make sure all was line up right and would not move after welding.
I would get a SBC or LT1 head and attach it and have it welded. I just took mine to the local muffler shop and had the header on the head and they welded it up for $5 or nothing, cant remember. I used the head to make sure all was line up right and would not move after welding.
So none of this is an issue. But as for bolting it back up to the head and welding it, LOL! No way. I wouldn't weld it after it was coated either.
I have to put 02 bungs in them as well...so it will be a little while.