ibanez6rg

Basically ran awesome idling, knock stayed at 0 and ran pretty descent I thought. Went to drive it and absolutely ran horrid! Stumbled around (5 degrees of knock) and had a pretty loud tick (assuming rockers). Not sure what the problem is, I went to try to adjust the rockers with the car running, and now it barely runs. And O2s were at only like 450... Not really sure what the problem is, but assuming it's rockers. And the O2 readings are really low.

ssbowtie1

Make sure you didn't overtighten the rockers as that could collapse the lifters and make the car stop running. Most important steps are making sure nothing is leaking, especially antifreeze if you've done a headswap. After that check all your wiring and make sure everything is plugged in.

ibanez6rg

It started idling like crap when I loosened the rockers to tighten them down until they stopped clacking, which obviously didn't work all that great. I'll probably end up just loosening them all up and start from the beginning with them, since I didn't put them on right the first time. I'm stumped as to why it would idle pretty damn well and just stumble around while driving. The tach wasn't working right either some of the time.

Probably have to take the alt. out to get the pass. side valve cover off, eh?

ssbowtie1

There is a VERY good procedure for tightening rockers with the car off that I've used. Its really hard to set valve lash with the car running especially with a FI car because its so loud and you have the injectors ticking, loud lifters, etc etc. Basically the idea is to turn the motor over slowly (very short clicks with the starter) until the lifter is not on the lobe whatsoever. Then you can tigthen the rocker until you feel some drag on the pushrod (that's zero lash), then 1/4 - 1/2 turn. If you search you shoudl be able to come up with the full procedure. I've never had to mess with setting vallvelash with the car running using this procedure, which keeps the mess of oil down, and is far more accurate. Also, when the car idles fine that means nothing, just that it's running ok at that rpm. Once the car is under load and reving is a completely different story. I'm sure alot of it also has to do with the computer needing to be programmed.

ibanez6rg

Yea, I've read up on some install guides. I didn't really pay attention to them, so that's why I'm just gonna go back and redo them all. If that doesn't work, I'll go on from there. I'm still wondering why the low O2 reading.

ssbowtie1

Exhaust leak? Maxed injectors? FP? That's just a tuning issue and I wouldn't be so worried about it.

xxsaint69x

if it stays at 450 that means its not working....Does it move AT ALL? I get 449 on the scanmaster if i unplug the sensor...

if you want, you can hit me up on AIM: Lt1UltraZ....
I just finally got my car back on the road ehehe

ibanez6rg

Didn't really pay much attention, but yea it stayed low around 450. Stock O2s, too, so that maybe the prob. Computer is all tunaged up. Injectors are probably close to being maxed out, didn't have any money left for bigger. No exhaust leaks that I'm aware of, although I couldn't hear much...

showen04

Kevin don't get down the car sounded like the $hit when you started her up. she'll be runnin great in notime!

ibanez6rg

I'll also get a quick vid of it tomorrow for you guys to hear the setup... That is if all goes well!

CeeBee94Z

Just outta curiosity, what ended up being wrong with yours? I just got mine all back together and it won't run at all. It popped a couple times like it was firing, but I got nothing. I am not sure what to look at.

ibanez6rg

My new opti was trashed, so I had one overnighted to me and that fixed my no start problem. Not really sure what you're referring to though.

Brandon94Z28

I just put in the 227/233 cam and my tach isn't working right either. It looks like it is getting stuck or something. For example, If I rev it to 2000 sometimes it will stay at 2000 after it evs itself down. It worked great before the cam install. I have no clue as to how to fix it.
Brandon