grabbem88

This car has given me zero issues for the past 6 months other than speedo inop but that's a different story lol.
Well yesterday the car started then died a minute
Later tried to restart and got nothing I smelled fuel and heard pump come on
Tried codes and got code 12 for all good so I visited shbox to double check and verify my opti I tested terminal A and D volts were 11.56 not bad after cranking I did the pulse check check and was received with 2.36 so I assumed icm which is 6 months new had
It tested at autozone and they said it was good
Anyways when I came home I rechecked codes and I got code 41 was this from unpluggingicm and testing it?
I tapped icm while cranking and it stumbled so I removed heat sink cause one bolt
Was stripped a little proceeded to put icm back on and she fired right up I only drove up town and let idle for about 30 minutes and had no more problems
So code 41 was my own doing correct? And this shouldn't be an opti delima right
It has been storming a lot here so anything wet might be possible with this car lol

shoebox

Could be that you had a marginal connection at the ICM plug and by removing/installing it, you improved the connection.

grabbem88

I was wonder that but wife reminded me of sparks arcing in front
As an update btw last night it stormed hard core and awhile ago car started right up idled fine and restarted a half a dozen times with no issue if I leave heat sink off will I run into other issues like heat soak? Car will not go past the first 1/4 line on the temp
I am picking up another icm since first is under warranty so nothing is coming out of my pocket just 5 minutes of my time

grabbem88

Ok it did it again. Replaced icm about two weeks ago and used the heat sink tonight it did it again
And died took heat sink off and it fired right up
The only thing I noticed was the little machine bolts are stripping the mounting holes
So I'm thinking its a ground/contact issue since you have to have a ground with the icm
It is kinda erksome with how they put the icm in such a retarded spot

bw_hunter

Do you have the thermal transfer grease between the ICM and the heat sink? It does matter.

Just a minor point....removing the battery negative cable is good procedure when working on anything electrical..

grabbem88

Yes sir it does. When I finally got home I left car running popped hood wigggled wires and nothing
But as soon as I wiggled icm the car died

grabbem88

Well I knew something wasn't right. I think the prior owner used
A different style of bolt cause I found some of my spare parts from scavaging
Off some wrecked lt1's and used some bolts from them and they fit snug
And drew up goodntight even with the heat sink on so basically all I did was give it a better
Ground by taking the heatsink out due to the impropper bolt grip

Live and learn lol.

grabbem88

Well back to the drawing board car died on me while I. Was on the interstate with my family and that is not cool at all.! I had spark but this time smelled no fuel then I noticed my security light was on
I thought mine was bypassed but I guess not?
But security malfunction won't kill a car driving I thought the opti does that? Does the opti kill fuel as well?

Injuneer

If you lose the low res pulse from the cam position sensor in the Opti, the PCM can not time the injectors and the spark, so it shuts down the fuel system. It sets a code, but does not turn on the SES light.

grabbem88

Well the only I ever get is 12 or 24 since I havnt got that fixed yet lol
What is weird is my security is not mounted and I seen it wasn't flashing so I unplugged it flipped key back and forth and the security did a flash and car fired up got us back home with no
issues and prior to no no start I pulled coil plug and I had major spark
It might very well be my opti it was replaced at 170k and I have 208k on it now well maybe more with no odometer working lol
What is weird is I always get 12v and 2.3 when I flip my meter to ac so my opti checks to be ok right?