CC305 vs. CC503 with stock heads
#1
CC305 vs. CC503 with stock heads
I will be removing a head to replace a damaged valve, so i am thinking about throwing a cam in since things will be torn down.
Assuming I have stock heads with beehive springs, what could I expect from these either of these two cams in terms of performance. I curretly have 301RWHP and 326RWTQ.
I will eventually port the heads when money allows.
Thanks
Assuming I have stock heads with beehive springs, what could I expect from these either of these two cams in terms of performance. I curretly have 301RWHP and 326RWTQ.
I will eventually port the heads when money allows.
Thanks
#5
Re: CC305 vs. CC503 with stock heads
CC503 is a 224 cam right? I'm pretty sure. If it is go with that. Pretty much the whole LT1 and LS1 crowd has had success with 224 cams in our cars. Thats what I went with.
#6
Re: CC305 vs. CC503 with stock heads
It really sounds like I am after the CC305 cam. I want to rev to 6300 max to ensure engine shortblock longevity.
What are your thoughts on these two cams:
CC305 112LSA
CC305 114LSA
What are your thoughts on these two cams:
CC305 112LSA
CC305 114LSA
#7
Re: CC305 vs. CC503 with stock heads
Those cams are so close that you would likely see less than a 5RWHP difference. The 114LSA would have a better idle quality. I would imagine the 112LSA would have a slight edge on the top end?
THere is less overlap on the 114. Less overlap = better idle. Less Lope.
In all honesty, your being too picky about it. If you want a little more lope out of it, go with the 112:SA. If you want SLIGHTLY better idle qualtiy, go with the 114LSA.
And with a 503 on stock heads, you dont have to rev past your 6300 RPM limit you have set. On stock heads it would choke out at like 6,000 and shouldnt be shifted past more than say 6200RPMs anyways. Even on good ported heads,I couldnt see this cam revving past 6400-6500. Even the LE1 cams can be shifted at around 6500 on good heads.
THere is less overlap on the 114. Less overlap = better idle. Less Lope.
In all honesty, your being too picky about it. If you want a little more lope out of it, go with the 112:SA. If you want SLIGHTLY better idle qualtiy, go with the 114LSA.
And with a 503 on stock heads, you dont have to rev past your 6300 RPM limit you have set. On stock heads it would choke out at like 6,000 and shouldnt be shifted past more than say 6200RPMs anyways. Even on good ported heads,I couldnt see this cam revving past 6400-6500. Even the LE1 cams can be shifted at around 6500 on good heads.
#8
Re: CC305 vs. CC503 with stock heads
I dont think I am being overly picky, I just want to make an informed decision that is right for me. You guys have more experience in the field and I appreciate the help.
I will probobly get the 114 LSA.
Next question, can I use my LT4 springs and CC promag 1.6 ratio rockers with this cam?
I will probobly get the 114 LSA.
Next question, can I use my LT4 springs and CC promag 1.6 ratio rockers with this cam?
#9
Re: CC305 vs. CC503 with stock heads
No, you cannot use LT4 springs with either cam selection. The LT4 springs are already questionable/maxxed out on the hotcam.
I had excellent results with my cc503.. to the tune of 12.0's @ 112.x mph on bone stock heads.
I had excellent results with my cc503.. to the tune of 12.0's @ 112.x mph on bone stock heads.
#10
Re: CC305 vs. CC503 with stock heads
Originally Posted by Javier97Z28
No, you cannot use LT4 springs with either cam selection. The LT4 springs are already questionable/maxxed out on the hotcam.
I had excellent results with my cc503.. to the tune of 12.0's @ 112.x mph on bone stock heads.
I had excellent results with my cc503.. to the tune of 12.0's @ 112.x mph on bone stock heads.
#11
Re: CC305 vs. CC503 with stock heads
Im pretty sure he was shifting at around 6200ish?
He did have some weight reduction, but nothing radical(At least as far as I know). It is still a totally usable street driven car.
And as he said, those springs would be at/very very close to binding. Get 918 Bee Hives ... Get them with 10* locks and retainers. And a good quality one pice hardend push rod like a Comp Hi Tech or equivilent. It wont be cheap, but you will smile when you open the box of parts... And youll be in a better state of mind knowing that you arent putting elcheapo parts in your heads.
He did have some weight reduction, but nothing radical(At least as far as I know). It is still a totally usable street driven car.
And as he said, those springs would be at/very very close to binding. Get 918 Bee Hives ... Get them with 10* locks and retainers. And a good quality one pice hardend push rod like a Comp Hi Tech or equivilent. It wont be cheap, but you will smile when you open the box of parts... And youll be in a better state of mind knowing that you arent putting elcheapo parts in your heads.
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