Change hub to run cloyes dbl roller on 97 LT1??
#16
Why Cloyes Dbl and EWP?
"BTW... why are you going with a double roller?"
Pretty much the same reasons as everyone else, more power, more dependable/accurate valve train, fewer spots to leak (I've had a belly-full of leaks on this barge), and the kicker was some of the discussions I have seen lately about incompatible cam gear/WP drive gear problems - particularly when switching to the LT4 ED timing chain setup. The other biggie was the ability to get the Cloyes double roller and the electric water pump plus all the aforementioned benefits for about the same price as the highway robbery GM extreme duty setup (depending on where you buy).
Pretty much the same reasons as everyone else, more power, more dependable/accurate valve train, fewer spots to leak (I've had a belly-full of leaks on this barge), and the kicker was some of the discussions I have seen lately about incompatible cam gear/WP drive gear problems - particularly when switching to the LT4 ED timing chain setup. The other biggie was the ability to get the Cloyes double roller and the electric water pump plus all the aforementioned benefits for about the same price as the highway robbery GM extreme duty setup (depending on where you buy).
#17
So if I am able to use the reluctor wheel as a spacer to locate my exixting 97 hub correctly on the crank snout, does that mean I can keep a funcioning crank position sensor or do I still have to have that feature programmed out by the folks at PCMforless? I though I had to get rid of the CPS as soon as I switched to the Cloyes double roller chain setup?
If I am able to keep the reluctor wheel and use it as a spacer, that would seem to mean that the crank sprocket for the double roller is the same thickness as the crank sprocket from the original setup. Am I understanding correctly?
Thanks for all the responses.
If I am able to keep the reluctor wheel and use it as a spacer, that would seem to mean that the crank sprocket for the double roller is the same thickness as the crank sprocket from the original setup. Am I understanding correctly?
Thanks for all the responses.
#18
I went with a keyed earlier model crankshaft hub from thunderracing to make up the difference deleting the cps/reluctor.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=4&pcid=239
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=4&pcid=239
#20
As I posted early on in the thread just grind down your relutor ring as a spacer and be done with it. If you have not seen the ring before it's kind of steped just grind it down to the 2nd to last circle and your good. I should have taken pics when I did mine.
#21
#22
I've had the HD on my stock pump drive gear now for 3 years w/out any problems. Dunno... just seems like more work for no benefit IMO.
The wives tales can run rampant on this board at times...
#23
According to the description it is a single roller chain. I believe the topic has to do with using a double roller. Cloyes makes a double roller that will work w/ the reluctor however it's cash money to buy.
Last edited by SS RRR; 04-03-2007 at 04:21 AM.
#24
I've seen those threads, however from what I read the question originated whether or not the gear drive should be changed out for the new one shipped w/ the chain and gears. Someone posted up how the meshing is different between the two and then everyone started freaking out.
I've had the HD on my stock pump drive gear now for 3 years w/out any problems. Dunno... just seems like more work for no benefit IMO.
The wives tales can run rampant on this board at times...
I've had the HD on my stock pump drive gear now for 3 years w/out any problems. Dunno... just seems like more work for no benefit IMO.
The wives tales can run rampant on this board at times...
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