Wild1

I've been reading the threads on the oil cooler and mine is the aluminum version that is equipped on the factory '95s. I'm not having a concern but it seems that most concerns occur after the engine has been opened up. Currently, I'm working on a H/C swap and the heads are getting ported sometime next week.

I've been very carefull not to get debris or RTV anywhere, but I am planning on draining the oil, then priming the engine. Then I'll run the engine for a week, drain the oil, and replace the filter. I figure that any debris or RTV will be in the filter at this time.

HOWEVER, it seems that this is the prime time that debris gets collected in the factory oil cooler. Looking at the chart on shbox's website, I see that there is only 1 bolt (plus the cooler lines) that need to be removed. Is that it? Or is there more to removing the cooler? Then I can inspect it and clean it if needed.

Here is the diagram of the oil cooler:

guest74777

yea it is just one big bolt holding it too the block, it is kind of hard to wiggle it out if you have headers still on it

BUBBA

Yup, I'd clean the oil cooler alright---by taking the cooler "clean out".

One less thing to worry about concerning the oil pressure and system in general. JMHO

Wild1

Yeah, I've been reading the threads on the different models and now I'm very concerned about mine clogging. After I reassemble the engine, I'll prime the oil pump then fire it up. If the pressure drops, then off it comes.

I'll drive it for a week to make sure most of the RTV, Fluff, or whatever is clogging them is in there and I'll clean it out.

I'll get a better idea when I get the oil cooler off. My header seem to clear the oil cooler well (just not the spark plugs).

What is the torque spec for the bolt?

Also people are writing about allen head screws but I don't see them in the diagram.

BUBBA

Never mind specific torque, just make them tight with the proper wrench and you should be good to go. JMHO

hey01

why don't you just drive it for a week WITHOUT the oil cooler, then change your oil and hook it up.

Wild1

I was considering to by-pass the oil cooler but then I'd have to deal with the hoses and taking out the allen head screws. It would be easier to run it and clean it since I want to take it apart anyways due to the stories I've read about carbon chunks and metal. I'll be watching the gauge closely.

dangalla

yeah there is a good idea

just flush it with some trans line flusher

maverickmk

someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but you do realize that it's coolant/water flowing through these coolers, and not oil, right? I've been reading all of these oil cooler threads as well and it seems to me that some people are under the impression that oil is running through these aluminum lines - I say this because of the concern regarding low oil pressure, gunk build up, etc.

BTC

In addition to the coolant, there better be some oil flowing through the oil cooler. Otherwise, that would be a huge ripoff.

ricehammer

If your are concerned about getting outside junk sucked up into oil pump and then through your engine, after the mods are done. Install one of these oil filter adapters, http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_94538_-1. It will force all the engine oil, and whatever outside junk that may be in it, to pass into the filter. The stock adapter, this one http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_763945_-1, has a bypass valve that lets some oil, and any other junk that may be in it, past the filter. The bypass valve is in the hole to the upper left of the pic.

I did it on mine, no spun bearings yet.

Wild1

Yes, coolant travels through the lines to the radiator. The oil passes through the cooler to the filter then back through the cooler, then the block.

I'm not sure where the clogs are occuring which is why I'm curious to take it apart and inspect.

maverickmk

let me know what you find - I'm curious to see what/if there is anything clogging it up

Wild1

ricehammer - that piece looks like it fits where the #1 is on the '95 oil cooler illustration. Is that correct? Is that the by-pass screen people are saying is getting clogged on the GM Perf Parts model?

tonka toy

I just looked at my oil cooler from my LT-1 that is apart because of a spun bearing and there are lots of metal shavings in the passage ways. It seems that if you remove the 4 torx screws (not allen on mine) the end piece will come off and you should be able to thoroughly clean the passage ways.But where do you get the gasket to put it back together? I'll be pulling mine apart soon for a good cleaning. IMHO I think i'd rather have an oil cooler than not,considering how much we beat on these cars.
Good luck