Crank Hub Problem... Suggestions Please
#1
Crank Hub Problem... Suggestions Please
I know the 93-95 crank hub is different in length from the 96-97. From what I understand the 93-95 hub is longer. I ordered the 93-95 hub. I pressed the hub onto the crankshaft until it bottomed and attached the pulley. Now, the pulley is set back too far... it's not lining up with my A/C and alternator pulleys. It is off far enough to shred the drive belt every time I floor it.
I can't figure out what's going on. I need the pulley spaced more towards the front. If I had a longer hub, it would probably work. But like I said, from what I understand, I bought the long version of the hub.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
I can't figure out what's going on. I need the pulley spaced more towards the front. If I had a longer hub, it would probably work. But like I said, from what I understand, I bought the long version of the hub.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
#2
Re: Crank Hub Problem... Suggestions Please
Did you measure that hub to make sure it is the early style? If you measure the length on the inside it should measure about 1.450". How far does the pulley need to come out? You can get a spacer from ATI that is 0.095" thick.
#6
Re: Crank Hub Problem... Suggestions Please
I sold the old engine and never compared the new hub to the old hub.
I will measure the length. It looks like the pulley needs to come about
.25" to .38" out.
This is on my 95 TA. I'm using the stock accessory mounts/brackets, etc.
I emailed GMpartsDirect, where I bought the hub, to confirm which part was ordered/sent.
I'm using a cloyes double roller timing set.
Thanks
I will measure the length. It looks like the pulley needs to come about
.25" to .38" out.
This is on my 95 TA. I'm using the stock accessory mounts/brackets, etc.
I emailed GMpartsDirect, where I bought the hub, to confirm which part was ordered/sent.
I'm using a cloyes double roller timing set.
Thanks
#7
Re: Crank Hub Problem... Suggestions Please
There is roughly an 1/8 inch difference between the later and earlier hubs. The thickness of the reluctor ring for the crank position sensor is the difference.
#8
Re: Crank Hub Problem... Suggestions Please
For reference sake, I am running a cloyes double roller as well with a 93-95 hub on my car (crank sensor ring removed), and I have no issues with the belt.
The 96/97 hub being shorter I would think would just bottom out earlier? Or if it keeps going b/c it's shorter that's the problem right there.
The 96/97 hub being shorter I would think would just bottom out earlier? Or if it keeps going b/c it's shorter that's the problem right there.
#9
Re: Crank Hub Problem... Suggestions Please
Now I'm stumped.... I have the 93-95 hub and it's still not long enough. Could it have been pressed on too far? Is it possible that I have the wrong crank?... CRAAAP!!!
#10
Re: Crank Hub Problem... Suggestions Please
Was this ever resolved. I use a ton of ATI dampners and they come with the shim to take up for the reluctor ring.
The oem hub being non keyed is always a pan having to get special crank key, etc. Just a mess I don't like dealing with, not to mention that the ATI is a far superior piece.
The oem hub being non keyed is always a pan having to get special crank key, etc. Just a mess I don't like dealing with, not to mention that the ATI is a far superior piece.
#11
Re: Crank Hub Problem... Suggestions Please
Originally Posted by Nick@Victory Racing
Was this ever resolved. I use a ton of ATI dampners and they come with the shim to take up for the reluctor ring.
The oem hub being non keyed is always a pan having to get special crank key, etc. Just a mess I don't like dealing with, not to mention that the ATI is a far superior piece.
The oem hub being non keyed is always a pan having to get special crank key, etc. Just a mess I don't like dealing with, not to mention that the ATI is a far superior piece.
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