crank hub removal
#1
crank hub removal
Ok i got longer 7/16 bolts to thread into the hub for the puller to be attached. But now when you tighten the screw to start the puller, how do you keep the crank from turning? This is my first rebuild and im not quite sure what to do.
#3
BTW: if you do put it in gear, be sure to put the E brake on if it is on blocks or jack stands. If the tranny is in gear and the rear wheels locked, the crank should not turn without a great deal of torque. Be careful when working under car. Make certain it is on solid blocks;/stands, etc.
#5
Been there, done that. What I use is a standard 1/4" extension. I stick it in the crank, then use a regular balancer puller. You can also use a longer bolt, but DO NOT thread it into the crank. You want one smaller than the stock bolt, and make sure it is grade 8. I've bend grade 5 bolts trying that.
#6
I've read posts where people get the large end of an extension stuck in the hub bolt hole. I'd use something that has no possibility of doing that. I use a long head bolt with the threads ground smooth.
#7
Wow, really? I've never heard of that. Maybe if you stuck the extension in wide end first. But I put the skinny end in, so there's no chance of that.
#8
No, when the hub pulls out the fat end get jammed in the hole. Seen it posted many times. This is, of course, when people don't watch what they are doing (which is commonplace). It's hard to give advice that people can't screw up.
#10
Just use a long screw driver and place it inbetween two of the bolts that you screwed into the hub. You can use one hand on the ratchet or impact gun and the other holding the screw driver so it doesn't turn. Hopefully you understand what I'm talking about, if not maybe someone else can explain or I can us MS paint to edit one of my pictures.