Damnit Damnit
#16
Now THAT'S the spirit!!!
You're going to be driving for the rest of your life, might as well start learning to fix stuff now Save yourself TONS of money in the long run!
Here's my directory of pics from when I pulled my engine out:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/formula/knock/
There should be plenty of pics in there to help you reference.
Here's the piece you're taking out:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...ock/intake.jpg
I want to STRESS the IMPORTANCE of getting a roll of 1/2" or 3/4" masking tape and a sharpie. Label EVERYTHING! Throw a piece of cardboard down and put the stuff you remove on that and label it, write notes, whatever you have to do to help you remember.
As you remove hoses and lines, # or letter each one as you go along. 1 on the end of the hose, 1 on the place it came from.
You are going to need a fuel line disconnect tool. 3/8 I think it is. Someone else can tell ya for sure.
The rest is basic hand tools though. Socket, ratchet, and extensions. Wrench, maybe a swivel.
As you can see from the pics, it's about 6 or 8 bolts holding it to the block, and some hoses andn lines. Make sure you disconnect the exhaust tube from the back of the intake (2 nuts) You can see it in the bottom pic.
the wiring harness may be a PITA, but hell undo it from it's plastic clips, tie some string around it and tie it to the hood or something if that helps keep it outta the way.
You will have to remove the alternator too. It's not hard, have to release tension on the tensioner pully (socket), no biggie. Just remove stuff a hose at a time (determine which end is better for ya)
But just remember, you get stuck, there's plenty of people here to help.
AND LABEL EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!
Good luck!!!
Dave
You're going to be driving for the rest of your life, might as well start learning to fix stuff now Save yourself TONS of money in the long run!
Here's my directory of pics from when I pulled my engine out:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/formula/knock/
There should be plenty of pics in there to help you reference.
Here's the piece you're taking out:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...ock/intake.jpg
I want to STRESS the IMPORTANCE of getting a roll of 1/2" or 3/4" masking tape and a sharpie. Label EVERYTHING! Throw a piece of cardboard down and put the stuff you remove on that and label it, write notes, whatever you have to do to help you remember.
As you remove hoses and lines, # or letter each one as you go along. 1 on the end of the hose, 1 on the place it came from.
You are going to need a fuel line disconnect tool. 3/8 I think it is. Someone else can tell ya for sure.
The rest is basic hand tools though. Socket, ratchet, and extensions. Wrench, maybe a swivel.
As you can see from the pics, it's about 6 or 8 bolts holding it to the block, and some hoses andn lines. Make sure you disconnect the exhaust tube from the back of the intake (2 nuts) You can see it in the bottom pic.
the wiring harness may be a PITA, but hell undo it from it's plastic clips, tie some string around it and tie it to the hood or something if that helps keep it outta the way.
You will have to remove the alternator too. It's not hard, have to release tension on the tensioner pully (socket), no biggie. Just remove stuff a hose at a time (determine which end is better for ya)
But just remember, you get stuck, there's plenty of people here to help.
AND LABEL EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!
Good luck!!!
Dave
#18
Dave... thank you very much.. extremely helpfull already.. i think i am just very intimidated and afraid im going to royaly screw something up... im going to go tool shopping in the morning.. or hell... wal-mart is open 24/7 maybe ill go get some tools now... and get on this thing in the AM.. thank you very much again and if i stumble be ready for a PM or e-mail with questions.. or more then likely another post..
thanks again.
Adam
thanks again.
Adam
#19
Hey LT1 Fla Guy...........
I am also willing to help walk you through this as you go. I just got finished about 3 weeks ago with taking the heads off mine and putting a cam in it. Man, it is really a matter of taking you time, do not get mad or give up, just come here and ask us . There are PLENTY of knowledgeable people here that will help.
Feel free to email me with any questions and I will be sure to answer just as soon as I recieve the email, heck man, Ill even give you my phone number so you can call me if you want.
BTW, my name is Brad
Feel free to email me with any questions and I will be sure to answer just as soon as I recieve the email, heck man, Ill even give you my phone number so you can call me if you want.
BTW, my name is Brad
#21
No problem man! I know what you're saying about being intimidated. But remember, an intake is pretty simple. You might break something here and there, an electrical plug or something, big whoop, it can be replaced!
I was pretty intimidated when I had to pull my engine out (out the top none-the-less), but I just said "screw it", bought a cherry picker, and went at it
I'm in Arizona right now, but I'll be back in Texas on Saturday hopefully.
I"m not sure what the warranty is on the Walmart tools (Stanley?) But I'd go get some Craftsman ones. Hell, if you get a craftsman card I think you get a discount on your first purchase too or something similar.
I was pretty intimidated when I had to pull my engine out (out the top none-the-less), but I just said "screw it", bought a cherry picker, and went at it
I'm in Arizona right now, but I'll be back in Texas on Saturday hopefully.
I"m not sure what the warranty is on the Walmart tools (Stanley?) But I'd go get some Craftsman ones. Hell, if you get a craftsman card I think you get a discount on your first purchase too or something similar.
#22
Brad thank you also... thanks to all you guys that are giving me a hand here... one thing.. he has it practicly put back together now.. his shop is about 7 miles from my house.. think its safe to drive it that far? or should i have it towed.??? actually.... he has the valve covers off and the rr's in plain sight... should i call him in the AM and tell him to STOP and have it towed here anyways and finish it myself??
#23
Taking the intake off is real easy. I would say just about anyone could do it. It is just six bolts on each side, and I think maybe an alternator bracket, which is held on by one of the twelve bolts. Just label the parts that are bolted down with the bolts and you will be fine. Definately shouldn't be $300 worth of labor, I would say maybe $100 a shop. This will seriously be pretty easy, I just did it last week.
#24
So what has to be done to finish it up? If he's already chargin' ya labor to put the valve covers back on, then let him do it I guess...has he already adjusted the RR's, and the pushrods new are in?
Personally, I say better safe than sorry. Find a buddy w/ a tow strap and pull ya home, or you could get a tow truck. It'll be a LOT cheaper than POSSIBLY chewing up all kinds of **** in your engine..
FWIW, I spun a bearing. It took out my crank (wore .028" off the journal), took out that connecting rod, wore a nice gouge in my cylinder wall requiring new pistons (.030 overbore), my camshaft (ground down 2 lobes), 2 lifters, etc.
Don't risk it. It's probably in the lifter valley, but who knows fo sho.
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/formula/knock/3.jpg (I had the valve covers off trying to find my knock, turned out to be a spun bearing)
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/formula/knock/9.jpg
It doesn't look like any damage would really be caused running it in the lifter valley, but there are 2 holes in the front of the block going upto the timing area...
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...a/knock/13.jpg
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...a/knock/45.jpg
You can see here where a problem *could* occur...
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...ck/timing1.jpg
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...ck/timing3.jpg
Personally, I say better safe than sorry. Find a buddy w/ a tow strap and pull ya home, or you could get a tow truck. It'll be a LOT cheaper than POSSIBLY chewing up all kinds of **** in your engine..
FWIW, I spun a bearing. It took out my crank (wore .028" off the journal), took out that connecting rod, wore a nice gouge in my cylinder wall requiring new pistons (.030 overbore), my camshaft (ground down 2 lobes), 2 lifters, etc.
Don't risk it. It's probably in the lifter valley, but who knows fo sho.
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/formula/knock/3.jpg (I had the valve covers off trying to find my knock, turned out to be a spun bearing)
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/formula/knock/9.jpg
It doesn't look like any damage would really be caused running it in the lifter valley, but there are 2 holes in the front of the block going upto the timing area...
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...a/knock/13.jpg
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...a/knock/45.jpg
You can see here where a problem *could* occur...
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...ck/timing1.jpg
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...ck/timing3.jpg
#25
Well, I would...
have it towed just to make sure not to get into more trouble than you are in, which isnt that much btw.
Get it towed, then get on here and do some searches for the information you want. Then if that fails, post a thread. Nobody here will flame you man. We are more than glad to help you .
Get it towed, then get on here and do some searches for the information you want. Then if that fails, post a thread. Nobody here will flame you man. We are more than glad to help you .
#27
sorry.. had to do somethin.. <my gf was needin attention> anyways... as of now he has the rr off that was connected to the broken push rod... right now the valve covers are off... the one rr is off.. the new push rods and guide plates will be here tomorrow.. so he hasnt done those yet... only thing he has done to this point is... remove valve covers, remove half a broken push rod, remove 1 rr i think thats it. nothing has been put back yet
#28
Personally I'd let him install the pushrods/guideplates and set the RR's. The studs have to come out to install the guideplates, (studs hold em down).
I dunno, maybe you'd be able to set the RR's...I haven't done that yet...
What pushrods and guideplates did you go with? I need to get some. I'm assuming you've got the hardened pushrods
I dunno, maybe you'd be able to set the RR's...I haven't done that yet...
What pushrods and guideplates did you go with? I need to get some. I'm assuming you've got the hardened pushrods
#29
i got the malory hardened push rods and the comp cams guide plates.... if i let him re-assemble the rr's and what not... do i have to take them back apart to take the intake off to get into the push rod galley to find the broken piece?
#30
Im another guy that could help you. Ive done mine twice already and can help you out. im blazzerr43 on AIM or AOL. Im glad i got a truck and a swap instead of your dam cab forward design! that looks hard!