magnumv8

Just wondering which SFI damper I should use. I am building a 383 which will be spinning to about 6800 rpms. I dont see much talk about these, so I wasnt sure I should just use the stock one or go with an aftermarket SFI approved one.

Thanks

IDOXLR8

If you plan on spinning it that high than I would recommend going with an aftermarket damper. You may want to take a look an ATI damper.

383Z4ME

I was in the same boat yesterday and the builder I'm working with suggested either ATI or Fluidamper. I think either is about the same quality and a necessity at that rpm.

Injuneer

I think you will find that people either love or hate FluiDampr.... there is no in between. The shop that built my engine would not consider one.... I have an ATI. I think FluiDampr actually went out of business briefly last year, and was bought by another company that has restarted production. I believe the FluiDampr is signifacntly heavier than the ATI.

The ATI is about $380. If you are using it for a blower motor, the billet hub will need to be reinforced, and double keyed.

JEG's sells an SFI-rated LT1 damper, in both standard and 10% U/D for about $200. They charge extra for a hub, and do not include the key.

my94blackz

Ive been wonderin bout these to, do they combine as one the underdrive and damper or is it still the piggyback. Im hopein its one pully thats underdriven and lighter.

magnumv8

Is anybody using this damper?

I didnt mention in the original post that this is for a NA Lt1.

Anymore input?

ArizonaZ

The weight of each damper or harmonic balancer should be the same, it just has to do with moment of inertia. The weight has to be the same as stock for the harmonics of it, but the inertia can change. Inertis is equal to the mass times the radius squared. i.e., changing the radius to a smaller one with the same mass will decrease the moment of inertia. So, the one with the smaller radius shown be better overall, with is the ATI I believe.