Degreeing with heads off - a couple of ??
#1
Degreeing with heads off - a couple of ??
My heads are off waiting for the LE2s and emissions cam to come back and I want to make sure I understand everything I need to do to degree the cam properly with the heads off (I have read both procedures described on the Crane and Comp sites - but they are both with heads on).
I have searched all over for a degreeing procedure with heads off and have found the basics but still had a couple of semi-dumb questions.
First, given that there is no valve train, do I still need to get a solid lifter to put in the lifter bore in order to get accurate measurements for finding the intake lobe center - (or can I use the stock hydraulic lifter)? If I need a solid lifter which one should I get and from where?
A more stupid question - are most of you folks turning the crank by intalling the stock crank hub bolt or are you using something else? I thought it was a bad idea to intall that bolt and bottom it out in the hole? Is it better to get a shorter bolt for that hole that will not bottom out? I assume this is the better way to do it - and also the way in which I would attach the degree wheel?
Sorry, I really don't want to bugger this up.
Thanks for the input.
I have searched all over for a degreeing procedure with heads off and have found the basics but still had a couple of semi-dumb questions.
First, given that there is no valve train, do I still need to get a solid lifter to put in the lifter bore in order to get accurate measurements for finding the intake lobe center - (or can I use the stock hydraulic lifter)? If I need a solid lifter which one should I get and from where?
A more stupid question - are most of you folks turning the crank by intalling the stock crank hub bolt or are you using something else? I thought it was a bad idea to intall that bolt and bottom it out in the hole? Is it better to get a shorter bolt for that hole that will not bottom out? I assume this is the better way to do it - and also the way in which I would attach the degree wheel?
Sorry, I really don't want to bugger this up.
Thanks for the input.
#2
I did mine on the engine stand, so I could tilt the motor any way I needed. So I set mine up like this:
By having the deck surface parrallel to the ground I could set a large washer on top of the lifter for the dial indicator to get its reading from. You may not have this option if you motor is still in the car, but you still shouldn't need a solid lifter. The tension from the dial indicator won't be enough to compress the lifter as far as I know.
As far as turning the motor goes, I had the same dilema. Do yourself a favor and just go ahead and but the tool that comp cams makes for this. Its like $35 bucks from summit, but its worth every penny. In addition to safely turning the motor, its gives you a secure way to attach the degree wheel too. I won't try to degree another motor without it ever again.
By having the deck surface parrallel to the ground I could set a large washer on top of the lifter for the dial indicator to get its reading from. You may not have this option if you motor is still in the car, but you still shouldn't need a solid lifter. The tension from the dial indicator won't be enough to compress the lifter as far as I know.
As far as turning the motor goes, I had the same dilema. Do yourself a favor and just go ahead and but the tool that comp cams makes for this. Its like $35 bucks from summit, but its worth every penny. In addition to safely turning the motor, its gives you a secure way to attach the degree wheel too. I won't try to degree another motor without it ever again.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dbusch22
Forced Induction
6
10-31-2016 11:09 AM