LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

dirtiest lt1 ever! (pics inside) need advice!

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Old 01-25-2003, 11:33 PM
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Cool

Here ya go....

Get some paper towels.... Lots.... Stuff the oil passage holes with a couple so none of the sludge can get down into the pan. Take a spoon and start scooping When you get most of the sludge out, get some cheap cloth towels and some brake cleaner and start in on it after removing the paper towels.

If the heads are gunked up, do the same. I would just take some cheapo paper towels and line them up along the bottom of spring seats and start loading it down with brake cleaner.

Intake, spray it down with carb or brake cleaner. I actually couldn't get the varnish off of mine from the years of use. When this arose, I used some ol' aerosol industrial paint stripper

I recommend this method since the brake/carb cleaner really cuts the sludge in case it does run into the pan. It also dries, so there won't be any issues on start up.
After all the cleaning, I would pour some oil over the valve train, etc, fill crank case with oil, crank over, then drain oil (Cheap oil )

-Shannon
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Old 01-25-2003, 11:41 PM
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sorry- i need add another HOLY CRAP!

ok i feel better now

what if you hooked up a compressor and blew the oil out of the oil passages?

i'd VERY HIGHLY reccomend dropping the oil pan and cleaning that snmabtich out. get a new pump for $40 while your in there!

just get 50 bottles of engine degreaser and have at it!
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Old 01-25-2003, 11:45 PM
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see, bill i told ya using my engine as a tar dispenser would be a bad idea... you owe me 5 bucks...
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Old 01-25-2003, 11:45 PM
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Trey,
trust me, I'd bring this engine back to life, but it's all a matter of time and whether it's worth it or not.

Like you said, time is more expensive than anything and I am a perfectionist so this engine would be lethal to me.

A new engine would probably be a better idea for what he wants to do with that car...
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Old 01-25-2003, 11:51 PM
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Umm, that engine needs to be pulled and hot tanked. That has got to be one of the worst sludge monsters I've ever seen.

Wasn't a Penzoil motor was it? NO, don't answer that.... we've been down that road before, lol. Consider that a rhetorical question.

-Mindgame
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Old 01-26-2003, 12:03 AM
  #21  
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Originally posted by Mindgame
Umm, that engine needs to be pulled and hot tanked. That has got to be one of the worst sludge monsters I've ever seen.

Wasn't a Penzoil motor was it? NO, don't answer that.... we've been down that road before, lol. Consider that a rhetorical question.

-Mindgame
i just didn't want to be the one to say it

I agree

an oem rebuild can be had for around $1500 if you do it yourself.
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Old 01-26-2003, 12:15 AM
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Originally posted by Mindgame
Umm, that engine needs to be pulled and hot tanked. That has got to be one of the worst sludge monsters I've ever seen.

Wasn't a Penzoil motor was it? NO, don't answer that.... we've been down that road before, lol. Consider that a rhetorical question.

-Mindgame
Mindgame is 100% correct. Screw seafoam, engine degreaser, brake cleaner, etc.

Take that filthy, disgusting, disgraceful hunk of garbage out of the vehicle and have it HOT TANKED/VAT. Do the same with the heads. It only costs $30 to get the block boiled, and I paid $15 for BOTH heads to be cleaned. Do the same on the intake, and REPLACE THE OIL PUMP, that thing is probably clogged to all hell.

If you can pull the motor yourself, then you're not looking at much money to fix the problem. You will have to pay for new oil, coolant, wp, and gasket set to start with on the repair.

You still haven't told us how much money your friend paid for it but I'm willing to bet that its 3 times LESS than what it'd cost for you to fix theis engine. It has rust, as well.

I love LT1's but this one should've been retired along Larry Bird's jersey.

FOr that guy to sell your friend a car in THAT condition is IMMORAL, UNETHICAL. HE HAS NO CONSCIENCE. I could NOT sell someone ANYTHING that I KNEW was broken, but thats just me.

THe guy I bought my car from sold it to me with a blown gasket but it ran good, strong for 2 months. Another reason I would never screw someone.

Good luck with whatever you do, but personally I think its cheaper to move on.
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Old 01-26-2003, 12:23 AM
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Hmm, hot tanking, sounds like a good idea. Can you hot tank it with the rotating assembly still in the block though?? How about the heads? Do I have to take them to the shop bare?

Taking the motor out of the car is no problem... I'm just trying to think if all this will be worthwhile and if after all this trouble will it last some time...

The car has 102K miles so a fresh engine may just be a better idea...
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Old 01-26-2003, 12:47 AM
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Originally posted by madwolf
Hmm, hot tanking, sounds like a good idea. Can you hot tank it with the rotating assembly still in the block though?? How about the heads? Do I have to take them to the shop bare?

Taking the motor out of the car is no problem... I'm just trying to think if all this will be worthwhile and if after all this trouble will it last some time...

The car has 102K miles so a fresh engine may just be a better idea...
You can disassemble it or the shop can for a charge of course. Either way, it needs to be disassembled.

Now, you don't necessarily have to fully rebuild the entire engine. At a minimum, you should replace the main/rod/cam bearings and oil pump (just cheap insurance). Hit the bores with a hone and I'd go ahead and buy a set of rings. Put everything back together just as it came apart.... main caps in the same locations, etc..
As for the topend, I'd throw the lifters in a can of gasoline and try to get the gunk out of them... either that or chunk em and buy new ones.
The heads.... new springs (probably needs em), new guides and a valve job. You should be able to get everything back together for well under a grand.

-Mindgame
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Old 01-26-2003, 01:26 AM
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That is bad dude....... Nasty

Here is a picture of mine after 82,000 miles.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...57529207ZWShcS



Just a thin layer of oil. Nothing built up in this valley. I think your buddies engine can use a tear down. I think someone else said that also...

Last edited by Smokn '94 Z; 01-26-2003 at 01:31 AM.
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Old 01-26-2003, 01:57 AM
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That just a light build up, you should look at a high mile 4.1 or 4.5 Caddy, sluge fills the valley and rockers covers.
I'd run some more flush thru it followed up with seafoam.
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Old 01-26-2003, 02:16 AM
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IF you dont want to spend a lot of time or cash, I work on diesel engines and see this sometimes. short of yanking and dissasembling and hot tanking try this. When truck engines get like this we run a cleaner called bytuelselusolve(?) in with new oil and filter and run the thing for 10 to 15 min (up to operationg temp) DONT drive it just let it idle,(the cleaner makes the oil thin when it gets warm ie the oil pressure is low)drain the mixture out while its hot like right after you shut it off. then fill with regular oiland change the filter. works very well. Another thing you can try is a oil for diesels like shell rotella 15w40, diesel oils have a extra high concentration of detergents in them. Diesels are inherantly dirty engines cuz' of the soot in the combustion proses. It would be a cheap easy fix if you dont want to spend the big money. good luck with what ever you do.
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Old 01-26-2003, 02:43 AM
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DAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYUM!

Don't be surprised if when you get it cleaned up thats when he'll start having problems with it. I agree with one of the previous statements and that it has been exposed to overheating. I'd say some of that gunk is helping to hold stuff in place, fill gaps and what not if things are warped.
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Old 01-26-2003, 10:58 AM
  #29  
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Ive never seen anything like that in my life! How much did he pay for that thing????? Cuz if it were me I'd be
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Old 01-26-2003, 12:07 PM
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Looks like the previous owner seldom/never changed their oil. Believe me, back when I worked with my Dad I saw much, much worse. Unbelieveable I know, but it's true. I don't think he ever tried to just clean one up that had gotten that bad...but if you're willing to try, go for it.
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