LD1

I have got everything figured out now except the bearings. In particular the mains. .020 undersized and +.010 thrust face. Napa said Federal mogul was the only one that made the +10 with the 20u/s and after searching I was able to come up with a clevite p series # of ms1744p10 for them but no one can get them. So my question is will the federal mogul A-series aluminum bearings clear the radius on the crank. PN 7329ma20. The guy at summit wasn sure. I went ahead and ordered them along with everything else but I wasn't charged for the bearings yet because they said it was special order and would take them two weeks to get and then I would be charged. So will they work and are the A-series any good???

LD1

One more question to add to the above.

Has anyone ever ditched the banjo bolts on the coolant crossover tubes and went with 1/4 inch pipe fittings and a tee + regular coolant hose. I was thinking 1/4 in hose. Is there a reason that the steel line is so small and would going with larger hose have any adverse effects??

The reason I as is cause the bolts are in sad shape and I have enough fittings and hose laying around not to have to re-use them if it is an acceptable alternative.

Z-RATED94

That would be fine and a lot of guys do the same thing. I've heard the parts have been discontinued anyways. One question though, you did set it up just like factory correct, just with different parts?

LD1

I havent set it up yet as the motor is not together yet but I figured I'd ask before I did it cause if it wouldn't work I was going to have to try to track down them banjo bolts somewhere or make them.

I do plan on setting it up just like factory with a 90* barb fitting it the right cyl head and a nipple with a tee and two barbs on the left side. A short peice of hose to connect them and and a long peice to go to the radiator.

Z-RATED94

Set up like factory will do it. Like I said, it's been done before. Good to see your making some nice headway. I check the thread once in a while to see how your doing.

LD1

Just thought I'd update everyone again.

I got everything together. the new 242/248 xfi cam, new rods, bearings, timing set, etc etc.

I got to test n tune last night and ran the quarter. First pass I let off after the 1/8th cause I didn't know what it would run and I dont have a cage. It went 7.97 @ 88mph. Next pass was a full one 12.34 @ 110mph with a 7.90 @ 88 eight mile split. It still isnt quite where I was hoping but the pcmforless tune is based off a 230/236 cam and I went bigger so I may need to get tuned again.

I'm not sure I want to put anymore money into it though. I'd just like to sell it and get me something that is older and easier to work on.

brokegenetic

wow your giving up on it... with a good tune you will probably be in the 11's

'94 Bad A Z28

I still say you need to get rid of that converter and get something more in the 3600+ area, but at very least a 3200 converter. Your car has more displacement than mine, with a similar cam. Your car should run very similar numbers to mine if not better.


I ran the fallowing pass my first time out with the car, on a "dieing" opti.


60'.....1.731
330'...4.915
1/8....7.570
MPH...92.38
1000'..9.867
1/4....11.800
MPH...116.85


Now I realize that you have a TH400 eating up some power, but not that much. You've got AFR 210's, my car is stock headed (ported), and you've got 13cu in on me. Don't give up, just get everything worked out. Get a bigger converter, and a dyno tune.

LD1

I forgot to mention that it is a 3500 stall converter. For some reason I had 2400 stuck in my head but I think that is what I had on my old truck. I dug out the reciepts and called coan and it is a 3500 stall for sure.

Airbornec507

I've been following this thread for a little while and am interested in the following questions. I had a similar problem with the A/F leaning out at a certain rpm and power dieing off at 5800 rpm. However I have since switched from dual cc986 springs to PAC1215 springs and had Lloyd port my intake. I also upgraded to some 38lb injectors and self tuned the AFR. My AFR was way off at 5400rpm. Got it tuned in and just off of the mentioned things gained 3mph. Just off of my small stock headed local ported heads managed to get some respectable times out of it on a few more shake down passes. I'm looking for a 5mph increase from baseline to a few runs this fall with all the tweeking. You've done a lot and come a long way. But I believe that with a proper port job on those heads by LE or AI with a proper spring properly set up and a tune that thing will scream. You have all the base elements that will definately get you there. They just need to be set up and tweeked properly.

1)What springs are on the heads?

2)Who Ported the heads?

LD1

I havent touched the heads. they are as they came from AFR which according to the flow specs on them I thought was respectable.

The valve spring were double spring solid roller springs which I thought that along with the cam only turning out to be a small cam was my problem. The springs were like 195 seat and 480 @ .550. We just took the inners out and the outters only measured 130 seat anf 380 @ .550 so that is what we went with. I thought for sure I'd see some better numbers with these springs and the right cam but with the old cam which was barly bigger than stock and solid roller springs my best pass was 8.06 @ 85mph in the eight. This rebuild has only got me to 7.90 @ 88

I really dont want to put any more money into the car as it is turning into a money pit and I already have way more in it than it is worth. Yes I am giving up but I really don't have the time or the money to keep playing with it and my wife and I are trying to have kids right now so I would really like to just sell it to someone who has the time/knowledge to give this car the attention that it deserves.

Airbornec507

I know what your talking about there. My wife and I have a 10 mo. old baby and my car has been sitting in the garage for the last 6 months waiting for me to finish putting the passanger side head/ intake and now just a few parts more back on so I can finish her up. It's realy difficult when you have kids especially if one or both of you work night shift. That being said if it is a reliable driver and you have a brand new motor in it you could use it as a town/weekend car or short drives. You'd need a decent exhaust on it that isn't terribly noisey though.

Hearing now what you did with the springs I honestly think that is your issue especially given what you have said happens at given rpm. A set of PAC1218 springs would wake her right up in my opinion. Big thing is don't get in a rush and enjoy yourself, your new life w/kids, etc., etc., etc., and one day you may be able to pass the hobby on. G/L with whatever route you take.

LearJet

I agree, taking the inners out of a set of dual springs is pretty shady. Even if they have the correct open/close pressure the spring may not be able to control the valve under RPM. Get a set of PAC1218's.