sleeperMULLET

Ok guys, I really need some help. My mods are in my sig.

On startups whether the car is cold or hot I will get knock retard in OPEN LOOP only. Starts at 7º then goes down slowly until its around .3 or .1
While its doing this, and its still in open loop, the o2 voltages stay still, its not going up and down like its supposed to. I don't know if that will effect anything even though the voltages are disregarded in open loop.
Still in open loop the IAC count is at 160 with TB set screw all the way open.

As soon as the PCM goes into closed loop the knock retard goes away.
The IAC count goes to 0 and the engine idles fine for a few minutes then it drops 200-300 rpm and then goes back to 1000rpm. I have my idle set screw at 1000rpm because if i lower it more then IAC will max itself out.
So when I drive it there is no knock retard at all, I can go WOT and there is none at all. When I look at the IAC counts with my foot on the gas they go up. When I come to a stop, they go down until they hit 0 if i'm stopped long enough.

I'm going to drive around tommorow with a laptop to get a good datalog.

So today I changed my oil and it was a bit dilluted with gas, i think its either from the knock retard causing a little blowby if thats possible or the rings aren't seated yet. The engine currently has 120miles on it.
When I started the car after the oil change it still does the same thing in open loop, but i let it idle for about 10 minutes, and I pulled the fresh air tube off the TB and a little bit of smoke was coming out. I took the oil cap off and the same smoke was coming out. There was a little bit of oil where the tube conncets to the TB and a little bit behind the TB blades. I took out the PCV valve and there was a bit of oil on that too. I'm going to do a compression test to make sure everything is ok.
If i'm getting excessive blowby will I feel a lose of power? The car feels so fast, I broke traction when I punched it at 65mph.

One more thing, when I'm crusing to a stop or just let of the gas at low speeds the car bucks a little bit. When I get the rpms above 2000 it goes away, it doesn't feel like a missfire, is this cam surge? I have the CC306.

I don't know what is going on with it and its driving me crazy. All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

sleeperMULLET

ok, I finally borrowed a laptop so i could datalog my car. These are the events in the datalog: I started it, it runs like a$$, I kept tapping the gas so it wouldn't die, I backed up, drove down the road at 25mph, gave it a little gas, turned around, did a brake stand and peeled out, drove back down the road and parked it. I'm convinced now that it is the tune, in open loop it runs terrible, in closed loop it runs better but not perfect. I don't know what to do anymore. Here is the file: http://www.simplefile.net/d.php?id=626939d442

sleeperMULLET

i changed the file host to a site with less pop up adds, has anyone taken a look at the datalog yet?

Sweetred95ta

Would have, but I don't have Datamaster on my work computer. Should convert it to a .csv so anyone can see it.

Also, I'm going to be gone for the weekend, but you could email me the tune and I'll check it out for you. Sweetred95ta@hotmail.com

sleeperMULLET

could low battery voltage casue ignition retard and the car to barely run on initial startup, then as it charges it runs better? I have a cheap crappy Autozone battery, could the external fuel pump and the MSD box be putting to much of a drain on the battery that it makes it run crappy when its first started. In my datalog i see that at one point my voltage drops to 9 volts while it running.

Sweetred95ta

That is one screwy *** looking log. Usually, I can suggest something from seeing something goofy in a column or two, but you have multiple columns that are kind of wacky. Something is definitely wrong. PM Injuneer and send the file to him; maybe he could give you some advice.

sleeperMULLET

yeah, i don't know whats going on either

Injuneer

I must be brain dead.... I can't find anything on the link you posted except a bunch of file hosting services and an attempt to get us to upload files. Don't see a link to your file.

sleeperMULLET

when you click the link at the bottom there are 3 numbers you have to put in then you click download, if it doesn't work i'll just send the .csv file to your e-mail

Sweetred95ta

I had to have him email it to me. I forwarded it to you.

sleeperMULLET

i just e-mailed it too, i need to find a better file hosting site i quess

Injuneer

Obvious problem is the almost complete lack of vacuum on cold start.... your MAP is 80-90kPa at idle for the cold start. Even at the end with the engine warmed up its 65-70+kPa. You have DTC 33 for Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor circuit (signal voltage high, low vacuum).

The knock retard lasts for 20 seconds on a cold start, not until it goes into closed loop (206 seconds). Probably some component (lifter, piston, etc) making a little noise at cold start. I wouldn't worry about it. If you are concerned, take the time to listen carefully to the engine for unusual mechanical noises at cold start.

Your O2 sensors seem to respond very quickly, and start to move toward the rich side. Can I assume you deleted the AIR pump? The O2 voltages aren't supposed to go up and down in open loop. They start around 450mV cold because that's the voltage the PCM supplies to the sensors. As the sensors warm up, they start to add or subtract the voltage they generate. With an AIR pump connected, they will drop steadily to 00x mV's, and then the PCM will shut off the pump and go into closed loop. With the AIR disconnected, they will generally start to move upwards from the 450mV range, because the PCM enriches the A/F mixture on cold start. (Your O2 mV's in that first cold idle period look a little low - if your AIR is disconnected). They won't start cycling high-low-high-low-etc until it goes into closed loop. When it goes into closed loop at 206 seconds, they start moving exactly the way they are supposed to.

At idle, its pretty close to 128 on the left side BLM, but its adding a lot of fuel on the right side, with a 141 BLM in at least one location, although the BLM's seem to be moving around a lot... engine operation, particularly at idle, is not stable.

TPS volts is sort of low ar 0.35V, but the PCM seems to be able to baseline that as 0% throttle. Doesn't seem to match your statement the TB screw is fully extended. Have you drastically reamed out the TPS screw holes?

Target idle in the program appears to be set at 900rpm. At the end of the log (warm engine) idle period, the IAC starts at 60 and then continues to rise to 160 to maintain the idle speed. You indicate you have the TB blades screwed open, but the TPS volts look low for that to be the case, and the IAC is running awful high. Its normal for the IAC to increase when you use the throttle. The PCM opens the IAC valve to prevent the engine from stalling if the throttle is suddenly closed. Don't worry about what it does when you are driving, worry about what it does when you are sitting at idle.

At cold start, the IAC is wide open, and the idle is only 500rpm, so its a question as to whether its set up correctly for cold start.... the target RPM is only pushed up to 1000RPM, and that's not a lot different than the warm idle target RPM. But the IAC can't hold it at the correct idle speed.

Solve the low vacuum problem. Could be tune, could be the fact you have screwed the throttle open, could be vacuum leaks or valve adjustment problems, particularly when its cold. The CC306 shouldn't be causing problems that big in a 383.

You do have knock retard when the engine is warmed up.... look at record #3089, where its 4.2-degrees.

sleeperMULLET

yes AIR is deleted, I assumed DTC 33 was being set because the knock retard was causing the engine to die. The set screw is all the way open, if I close it any the engine will try to die until I give it some gas. The TPS is slotted so I'll try to raise the voltage a bit. Should I be looking for .67 according to Golen engines or a little lower for how far my TB is open? I'll check for vac leaks and I'll check the rockers if they need to be adjusted.
For #3089 I don't know why it had knock retard, when ever I give it gas the knock retard goes down, When I drove it yesterday my Scanmaster showed no knock retard at anytime I went WOT. There was one time I did the IAC reset procedure on Shbox.com and the engine idled perfectly, the IAC was around 30-40 at idle, then I shut it off again and turned it back on and it went bad to 160, I tried the reset procedure again and I haven't been able to get the the 30-40 from the IAC again.

Injuneer

DTC 33 sets because your MAP is higher than 68kPa at idle. The fact that its ready to stall may contribute to high MAP. The question is, why it there high MAP? Why can't it idle at the correct speed, even with the IAC cranked out to 160 and the throttle blades propped open. Have you verified that the IAC motor is working, and that the IAC passages are not plugged up?

The TPS voltage is not critical. The stockers are usually around 0.67V. If you have the slots opened up, set it to that value just to eliminate one more variable, although I doubt its related to the problem.

sleeperMULLET

Would a massive vaccum leak cause all these problems? I'm going to spray carb cleaning around the intake to check for a leak, but I can't hear any sucking sounds. If my heads and block where both milled, but my intake wasn't corrected for the new geometry, would the intake gasket not be sealing the head and intake? When I was assembling the engine I noticed there was a large gap in the front and rear of the intake near the block. My engine builder/machinst who was supervising the assembly said it was fine and told me to put a giant bead of RTV on the machined surface to fill it in. The gap was a little less then a 1/4" I'd say. Could this be causing all my problems?