IgorT.455/406

Hey guys. I dynoed my car today and tried to dyno tune it some more (its already been tuned before), and we could only get 3 more hp so the tune was good.

But anyhow, with the mods in the sig, the car did 283.5HP at 5,000 RPM and 315 ft-lbs at 4000RPM with a very flat powerband. What more can I do to get 300-305HP at the wheels? Can it be done without changing the cam (that and heads I am doing next year)? Thanks a lot!

P.S. This is on a Mustang Dyno in Calgary, 3500 feet!

atljar

FreeMods, longtubes, ECM tune, underdrive pullies

EDIT: Just saw above about tuning it, duh!

Blue96z28

in my opinion you should be at that point already, are you sure everything on the motor is good?

IgorT.455/406

The motor is running great. Its relativley stock, I think the power is about where it should be. It's a mustang dyno as well, reads a bit lower then dynojet one.

QCKZ28

160 stat and fan switch to keep it cool. relocate IAT to air filter.
cutout. 52mm tb (your gonna need it for heads/cam anyway)
i think that would be it...

pennys58

Maybe try some longtubes, or that under car ram air mod seems pretty good http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/ramair/ramair.htm. With out the cam or heads...not sure what else you can try...besides a sneaky pete or something. I'm surprised that you're not right at 300 with your mods, plus it is an M6. Maybe a MSD ignition and wires...I don't know, thinking off the top of my head. Since you have the RR's, why not just spend a couple hundred on a cam? That may be the quickest. Do the cam now, cheaper than LT's, and put the LT''s on when you do the heads.

JOHN

Edit:how do you like those lakewood LCA's...I was thinking of getting some?

Blue96z28

not to flame, but what qckz28 said is exactly what you don't want to do, the 52mm tb will not only help, but it will probably hurt a stock cam/heads motor.....plus the relocate IAT, that dosent work unless you are a 93(i fell for this myself, search for the thread)....so those two things are the absolute last things you should do to your car.....160 stat is debateable as well, but the fan switch is a must do, i got instruction off the internet in did it in under 30 min....it actually work's just through it on the second you get in the gates at the track.....it wont run the battery down and you can leave it on between runs and in the pit...the ram air is a joke as well, meaningless at best

if i were you i would slap some hooker long tubes on there before i do anything...and as soon as possible a cam(eiher hotcam or cc305 would suit you very well, then you would be talking 330+rwhp

my .02 guys

magius231

as far as a 52MM TB goes, its not going to hurt you...this isn't a wet flow carburetor where you can go too big and kill yourself.

You already are at 300RWHP, but since you dynoed on a Mustang dyno and at 3500 feet its reading low compared to what a Dynojet at sea level would read.
I think Mustang recommends you multiply your RWHP by 1.35 to get FWHP? I don't remember...but doing it that way I come up with 385 HP at the motor, before you calculate anything for elevation!

magius231

as far as a 52MM TB goes, its not going to hurt you...this isn't a wet flow carburetor where you can go too big and kill yourself.

You already are at 300RWHP, but since you dynoed on a Mustang dyno and at 3500 feet its reading low compared to what a Dynojet at sea level would read.
I think Mustang recommends you multiply your RWHP by 1.35 to get FWHP? I don't remember...but doing it that way I come up with 385 HP at the motor, before you calculate anything for elevation!

IgorT.455/406

Well, I don't want to dig into the motor yet because I want to do heads/cam at the same time. I had a nice cam for it, a solid roller with 242/248 duration, .570/.577 lift and 112 lsa and was gonna run CNCed heads with it. BUT, I decided to run that cam with some victor junior heads in my '88 car. The LT1 is gonna get a comp cam, probably 230/236 duration xe grind with ported heads and 4.33s as soon as my 9" is done. I would like to put over 300 hp on that mustang dyno with stock internals though. LTs might be an idea if I can get a good deal on them. But gotta finish the 9" first.

Also, on the dyno it seemed to have been missfiring uptop a bit, probably my wires since the OPTI is new and that cured A LOT of the missfire problems. Gonna do plugs/wires next, pretty sure couple of them are crossfiring. The missfires were way less apparent when we did a couple of cold runs, but the power never changed. Thanks guys.

Chris'SS #2152

Long tubes will get you some more power over the shorties. You'll need the LT's after or when you do heads/cam anyway.

Definitely can those wires/plugs.

N20 will get you all the power you want.

Shon Herron

I would like to see the comparo on this from the shorties to the LTs...no other changes.

IgorT.455/406

I already have the N2O on order, but I want to hit 300 N/A first! LTs I am going to have to get, BUT, the car has to get different springs in it because I have NO ground clerance with the Edelbrock y-pipe, let alone LTs

Gripenfelter

Good numbers Igor.

Go for Hooker Long Tube headers. I have a set and I love them.

Darren info@sybersport.ca in Winnipeg can get you a good deal on a set if you want them. He's a bit cheaper than other places. Tell him Grip sent you.

IgorT.455/406

Cool, thanks. The numbers could have been worse.