I was thinking of ordering the two blockoff plates needed to blockoff my EGR Valve. I realized I could have them made at work in our machine shop for free. However I need to know the exact dimensions. I could take the valve off and get them that way, but I'd rather not remove the valve until I replace it with the block off plate. Does anyone have a drawing or know the exact dimensions that would work to machine a plate out of aluminum. I don't want to go the ghetto way and just cut something out of some thing to make it fit. I have the tools to machine a good piece so it can be done. Also there is a second plate that is included with steve's kit and I wondered what that covers up and would like to also know the dimensions on that piece as I would probably need it and make that as well. One last question, Do you use the stock gasket in between the plate and manifold or what about the second plate? Just some type of gasket material? I hope someone out there on the web or here would have this information if they have created their own before.

 

TTT- I wanna know the dimensions too

 

I don't know the dimensions, but I can tell you where the plates go... 1 for the EGR valve, 1 for the riser from the passenger side exhaust manifold (see photo below), and 1 for the manifold or header connection - if you happen to have it on your headers.

Back of Intake

I really think it would be a lot easier to just buy the parts from SJM... he makes good stuff. Alternative would be to simply buy a replacement EGR valve from GM, make a Xerox copy of the gasket that comes with it, and immediately return the valve to the dealer (assuming he doesn't have a restocking charge).

 

I know where the EGR Valve is and see that, not a problem. But this other Riser I'm not sure where that is? Is that is what is missing on that intake in your picture? Do I have to block this off as well? I have stock exhaust manifolds. This is a 94 btw so hopefullt it is the same. I can actually buy a gasket only from the dealership and have thought about that. I just had to think someone has already done all of this work for me and could give me their dimensions. Thanks for the info and pic though. Pictures are more helpful than words sometimes

 

Yes.... the EGR "riser" pipe runs from the #8 runner on the exhaust manifold, to the opening on the passenger side of the back of the intake, as shown in the picture.

What exactly are you trying to do?

You can "disable" the EGR system simply by putting a small blanking plate on the riser tube opening, sandwiching the thin plate between the flange on the pipe and the intake manifold. That effectively disables the EGR system, because although the EGR valve responds correctly to the signals from the PCM, there is no gas flowing from the exhaust manifold into the back of the intake manifold.

If its all about removing things to clear up congestion, and save a tiny amount of weight, you need to remove the riser tube, and block both the opening on the exhaust manifold, and the opening on the intake manifold. Then you need to remove the EGR valve and block that opening. then you need to remove the EGR solenoid and cap off the vacuum port on the drivers side of the intake manifold.

All of this will accomplish little if anything, since EGR does not operate at wide open throttle, and can actually help reduce the possibility of detonation when "lugging" the engine at low/medium loads. And, depending on the year of your car, you will "definitely" (96-97) get an SES light and trouble code, or you "may" (93-95) get the light and code. And, if you have emissions testing, EGR may help you pass on NOx.

 

I want to do this because I am having problems with it at idle. I have a very strong feeling it is the EGR valve. If not I'll have to start searching somewhere else. So, I am to the point where I want to take off the EGR valve and just block of the places that need to be until I evetually get some headers. I am in Michigan so that EGR thing is just a problem attached to my Engine.

 

EGR isn't active at idle. Only at part-mid throttle.

 

Just take them the gaskets for them and have them make the plates to that sizee.... of course without the hole in the middle.

 

yes it isn't active at idle, but when it gets stuck it causes a problem and same as a stumble around 2,000 rpms when light trottle. Cleaned it out once. Was filthy, now instead of replacing it with a new one I want to block it off since it is cheaper and don't or won't need it anyway when I get headers. it solved the problem though for a while, then came back, so I'm pretty sure this is a fix and it just got clogged up again or something.

 

i bought the valve and feed tube block off plates from TPiS for $12 each. Can't beat the price, and they're billet aluminum. They were almost too pretty to hide on the back of the intake: