LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Electric water pump failures...

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Old 11-14-2006, 10:20 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by JP95ZM6
The pics on that link for the LED don't work, but it sounds like the LED only tells you when the circuit has power, not necessarily when the pump is running. Big difference. If the pump motor fails but still has power, then the LED will stay lit. Hooking an LED up to the pump side of the relay (motor red wire) could, however, tell you if the relay fails.
bingo. its a waste of time, imo.
about the only REAL way of telling the pump is running is to install some sort of flow sensor. this actually reads whether or not the coolant is actually circulating.
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Old 11-15-2006, 12:00 AM
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or http://impalassforum.com/cgi-bin/ult...8;t=000106;p=4
the guy is a member here. Basically alarms you when your car reaches a certain temp with a buzzer and a red light. It's genious! I'll be definitley contacting this guy for one.
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Old 11-15-2006, 12:23 AM
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tell me how the contact goes with him
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Old 11-15-2006, 02:38 AM
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Originally Posted by DataChild
or http://impalassforum.com/cgi-bin/ult...8;t=000106;p=4
the guy is a member here. Basically alarms you when your car reaches a certain temp with a buzzer and a red light. It's genious! I'll be definitley contacting this guy for one.
I've got his setup and it works as advertised I've had it for over a yr now. Best money I've spent.
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Old 11-15-2006, 04:10 PM
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I've had one CSI pump fail out of the blue after 2 years. Ordered another one and have had no problems with it. The car used to be a daily driver, but it's been relegated to weekend duties now.
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Old 11-15-2006, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by turbo_Z
electric pumps either work or not while mechanical pumps always work even if the bearing fails.
Not always.... Mechanical pumps can seize up and not work at all. Although i'm sure it's rare, it can happen. Had a pump on my old GMC seize up while i was driving. The shaft then snapped and there wen't my fan through the radiator. That was an interesting night....

Ken R.
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Old 11-16-2006, 01:22 AM
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don't get a csr/csi, thay have a poor design which causes the force of the water to spin the impeller off of the motor shaft and wedge against the housing. A simple change in thread direction would have been due, great engineering there anyway this happened to me and i just said screw it and bought a meziere.
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Old 11-16-2006, 01:27 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by zx1216
don't get a csr/csi, thay have a poor design which causes the force of the water to spin the impeller off of the motor shaft and wedge against the housing. A simple change in thread direction would have been due, great engineering there anyway this happened to me and i just said screw it and bought a meziere.
Now that is scary! I've got a CSR (knock on wood)
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Old 11-16-2006, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by turbo_Z
Daily driver here and never had one fail yet... not completely fail anyway. The bearing on my CSI started to get some water in it and you could hear it struggling but the pump still cycled without blowing a fuse. That pump had at least 30k on it and probably well over. The new pump now has 20k and is still going strong.

I like them but they can have obvious reliability issues... electric pumps either work or not while mechanical pumps always work even if the bearing fails.

And how many times has your pump lost its connection and overheated your car? Your old pump really did sound pretty bad too but it kept on going. You should put it back in and see how many more miles you can get out of it.
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Old 11-16-2006, 10:25 PM
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I second the alarm from the impalass forum.. it is a really nice peice of security to have. No problems from the meziere here either.
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Old 11-17-2006, 12:45 AM
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Just run what you feel comfortable with. If you are one of those guys who get freaked out over little things that may happen, then stay stock. If you can handle the thought that the pump may fail without you knowing until the temp starts to rise then go electric.

Before I start my car I just turn the ignition on and listen for the hum of the pump. If for some reason I don't hear it I will actually open the hood and listen for it. I'm also constantly looking at my temp.

I look at it like this, it's a performance car and every little thing I do to it will and can make it just that much more unreliable. If I wanted full on reliable I would have left it stock. What fun is that? I'm on my 2nd Z28 and they have both had a CSI with no problems.
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Old 11-17-2006, 02:47 AM
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For those guys that think the mechanical pump is more reliable. I'm the original owner and have 140000 miles on it. I have had 2 mechanical pumps fail at 60,000 miles and 120,000. It not a problem as long as you watch your temperature guage. I will never go back to a mechanical pump. Meziere takes only 10 minutes to change if it fails. However I have not had to change it.
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Old 11-17-2006, 04:03 AM
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If your mech fails and the temps go up its because its been leaking for a while now and enough coolant has leaked out to make the coolant level low enough to overheat
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Old 11-17-2006, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 97WS6Pilot
For those guys that think the mechanical pump is more reliable. I'm the original owner and have 140000 miles on it. I have had 2 mechanical pumps fail at 60,000 miles and 120,000. It not a problem as long as you watch your temperature guage. I will never go back to a mechanical pump. Meziere takes only 10 minutes to change if it fails. However I have not had to change it.
Yes that is another advantage of the electric pump... if a guy could... all he needs is a spare pump, extra jug of coolant and wrench to change the pump out even on teh side of the road.
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Old 11-19-2006, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by turbo_Z
Yes that is another advantage of the electric pump... if a guy could... all he needs is a spare pump, extra jug of coolant and wrench to change the pump out even on teh side of the road.
Have you done this before? I'm wondering how easy it'd be because mine is really close to the fan- looks like I might have to remove the fan even to just swap the motor out.
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