WS6 TA

Is there any reason to choose one over the others? Has anyone had problems with any of them/is one more reliable? Seems like they have a whole list of different flow numbers, but all of them are about the same or higher than where the stock pump cavitates, so I don’t believe that would be a factor in choosing one over the others. I have no issue with paying more for one that will last longer/work better, but as far as I can tell the cheaper ones are the ones that fit easier and I haven’t really heard of any of them failing.

Are any of the wiring kits any better/more worthwhile than the others? Are any of them anything more than a relay/socket and wiring that I can get at a stereo shop for $9?

I guess while I’m at it, anyone have any vendor recommendations?

96capricemgr

The belief that the electrics move more water than the stocker is just sillyness. The stocker moves at least 66gpm as restricted by the system from the SAE data we have available. The elecrics are all free flow rated and seeing as they are a simple impeller the restriction of the system will drastically affect their output. Pretty well demonstrated that before 2500rpm the mechanical is already moving more than the lower flowing electrics. A few of the intellignet folks who try and understand things have noticed RAISED coolant temps at cruise if they have 4.10s or the like.

That said the electrics are adequate for most purposes. The belief they move more water with less energy though is belief in a perpetual motion machine.

The power they DO free up to the wheels is by using less energy to do less work.

Not trying to discourage you, just saying get the facts straight.

CGrant

I have the csr on my car since 2003 and am very happy with it, I have a built 355 and the car runs cool, i have the 180* therm installed.
the reason you would want to replace the cam driven water pump with the electric would be to run like a double roller timing chain for example.
I just poped a freeze plug in the timing cover and was done.
If your car is stock and you have no plans on upgrading the timing chain then i wouldnt even bother with it unless it's fried.

96capricemgr

People use "upgrading" the timing chain as a "reason" for wanting electrics too, but problems with the stock chain are exceptionally rare.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=521308

seawolf06

I went with the Mezeire for mine and it works great. There weren't any fitment issues and it came with all the necessary wiring. It gives around 10 rwhp and allows you to run a double roller timing chain. I think that recently a company made another LT1 timing chain that is cheaper than the old LT4 ED chain. The reason I went double roller was because I wanted to replace the stock one, but the LT4 chain was almost twice the cost of the Cloyes.

The ewp will move adequate water to cool the car, but not as much as the stocker. However, the ewp will move the same amount of water all the time, so that means you don't have to be at higher RPM to move more water.

Some people also believe that the added stress of driving the stock waterpump leads to excessive wear on the front cam bearing.

ulakovic22

I've run an electric for about 15K miles and haven't had any issues. There are warning kits out there you can use for extra safety if you so desire.

flyinZ

How did some of you guys, wire your EWP up? Power it off the fuse block(underhood), with an inline fuse? Or did you run some type of relay, with a power switch?

Zepher

Relay with main power fed straight from the battery and the ignition activating the relay, as well as a switch in parallel with the ignition so the pump can run with the ignition off.

WS6 TA

Well, first, I’m not upgrading. I’ve smelled coolant for a while and I was just under the hood and noticed that I’ve got the occasional coolant drip that hits the belt an sprays all over the pulleys and inner fenders (no puddles yet). The biggest reason I want to go electric is that I hate the water pump driveshaft assembly on these engines and figure that for about the same price as a replacement pump I can get rid of that, gain ~10hp… Depending on how long I can hold off the actual replacement, I may do a cam swap at the same time, you know, “while I’m at it…”


As far as what moves what, I haven’t been paying attention with the results people have been having WRT to temperatures lately, but I do remember when they first came out being surprised that people were able to maintain the same temp as with a mechanical pump on the road course and I remember seeing a test somewhere (might have been an evens cooling thing) that that showed that yes, the mechanical pumps can move more water in similar, no load conditions, but in a real world situation, by the time you are moving more water with the mechanical pump it starts cavitating and the flow falls apart. Doesn’t really matter since I know that either way an electric pump will move enough water.

WS6 TA

Back to the original question… I seem to remember something about that the later electric pumps being smaller then the originals and that trimming the shroud isn’t as big a deal anymore.

I’m not hearing anyone saying that any of the pumps were any better or any worse than the others, possibly with the exception of the Metz… coming with a complete wiring harness?

seawolf06

I'm pretty sure mine came with wiring, but now that I think about it, I may have bought the relay or stolen it from the AIR system that I deleted. It was 3 years ago.

You still have to trim the fan shroud, but it isn't much and a dremel goes through it like butter. I remember the old CSR/CSI pumps you had to trim the inside of the wp housing because of fitment issues. I didn't have any of those problems with my Mez.

ShownomercyZ28

The new ones (CSR) you still need to cut into you waterpump housing...

ulakovic22

Meziere works great for me, no clearancing and came with everything needed except the relay kit. I got that from Painless.

seawolf06

It's cheaper to just make your own, too. If you like kits, the Painless one is good quality.

96capricemgr

No, the 66gpm is at about 4800rpms. At 2500 though they are moving more than the low flow electrics.

At 2400rpms the mechanical is moving 31-32gpm RESTRICTED and again the electrics are rated free flow.

The documentation I have is done in "pump rpms" the timing to WP gearis a 2.48 overdrive and obviously the upper timing gear is spinning half engine rpms. So I worked backward off the 3000 rpms at the pump data which is just over 2400 engine rpms.

SAE published the data, so it is a bit better than the data most people trust.