Electric water pumps
07-14-2008, 09:56 PM
#16
Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 446
Relay Barry Grant 171035 22.00
Water pump Meziere WP118 216.00
Here is the water pump i installed, bought it from Jegs, you do have to clearance the shroud. I am having a hard time believing that mechanical is better, my stock motor, with the stock pump, and 160 stat would hit 200-210 in the summer with the AC on, My new highly modified motor with the electric water pump, in the summer, with the AC on, never goes above 185, even when i am romping on it. I think its true, at high rpm the stock pump flows more, but for every day driving, EWP consistantly flows more, especially when idling.
Water pump Meziere WP118 216.00
Here is the water pump i installed, bought it from Jegs, you do have to clearance the shroud. I am having a hard time believing that mechanical is better, my stock motor, with the stock pump, and 160 stat would hit 200-210 in the summer with the AC on, My new highly modified motor with the electric water pump, in the summer, with the AC on, never goes above 185, even when i am romping on it. I think its true, at high rpm the stock pump flows more, but for every day driving, EWP consistantly flows more, especially when idling.
07-14-2008, 11:11 PM
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 71
No, the 66gpm is at about 4800rpms. At 2500 though they are moving more than the low flow electrics.
At 2400rpms the mechanical is moving 31-32gpm RESTRICTED and again the electrics are rated free flow.
The documentation I have is done in "pump rpms" the timing to WP gearis a 2.48 overdrive and obviously the upper timing gear is spinning half engine rpms. So I worked backward off the 3000 rpms at the pump data which is just over 2400 engine rpms.
SAE published the data, so it is a bit better than the data most people trust.
At 2400rpms the mechanical is moving 31-32gpm RESTRICTED and again the electrics are rated free flow.
The documentation I have is done in "pump rpms" the timing to WP gearis a 2.48 overdrive and obviously the upper timing gear is spinning half engine rpms. So I worked backward off the 3000 rpms at the pump data which is just over 2400 engine rpms.
SAE published the data, so it is a bit better than the data most people trust.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...69#post4703069
07-15-2008, 06:54 PM
#18
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,800
There is a LOT more to the data than just one graph, but yes that is a piece of it. Notice it says "pump rpm". As I said before the timing set obviously reduces crank rpm to 50% to the cam gear and then I went and counted the WP drive gears and it is a 248% overdrive.
The electrics do flow more than the mechanical at idle, BUT how much heat is an engine producing at idle? In winter if you leave a car idle for 10 minutes it may not fully warm up, but in just a few minutes of driving it will even though there is then airflow. This is because at a no load idle the engine produces little heat and needs little cooling.
Those whio keep trying to argue it, just give up. Stop trying to argue all the vast benifits and admit there are basically two, one is it does less work so it frees up more power to thw wheels, and two it can be run with the engine off for cooldown between rounds. Basically all the other "reasons" are bull. The "better timing chain", the "better cooling" are just wrong, they are used as excuses for why guys dove headfirst into a mod they did not fully understand.
Again I will say they are ADEQUATE for most uses, I just want people to stop sharing bad info and to understand things. I may well put an electric on mine this fall seeking that extra tenth. I am not against them, just against the ignorance that surrounds them.
The electrics do flow more than the mechanical at idle, BUT how much heat is an engine producing at idle? In winter if you leave a car idle for 10 minutes it may not fully warm up, but in just a few minutes of driving it will even though there is then airflow. This is because at a no load idle the engine produces little heat and needs little cooling.
Those whio keep trying to argue it, just give up. Stop trying to argue all the vast benifits and admit there are basically two, one is it does less work so it frees up more power to thw wheels, and two it can be run with the engine off for cooldown between rounds. Basically all the other "reasons" are bull. The "better timing chain", the "better cooling" are just wrong, they are used as excuses for why guys dove headfirst into a mod they did not fully understand.
Again I will say they are ADEQUATE for most uses, I just want people to stop sharing bad info and to understand things. I may well put an electric on mine this fall seeking that extra tenth. I am not against them, just against the ignorance that surrounds them.
07-15-2008, 08:58 PM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Back in the US of F'in A
Posts: 325
I use the mez HD. IMHO any of the good EWPs will move enough water since its a closed system, recirculating the same couple of gallons of coolant. Ive been on a few long high speed road trips (1300-1400 miles in a single day) in my vette and I've never had high coolant temps with my MEZ HD. My engine is lightly modded (read sig) with the stock radiator. Lots of C4 Corvette owners have cooling issues with stock engines, so IMO it was a worthwhile swap and I wouldn't trust my high reving .615 lift valve train on the stock timing chain the EWP was a necessity.
Mike
Mike
07-15-2008, 10:55 PM
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 50
Meziere works great for me here also. But my Car is Drag race only.= No street time. If i ran one on the street id have something to tell if the fuse blew or if it quit working. Its scarey how fast the engine heats up if its not working. Another thing they run so quiet unless you put your hand on it you cant tell its running. Well at least mine is. Ya you will go faster though.
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