Bersaglieri

Well, I'll say one thing first, when having your friends help you put headers in, double check their work cause they dont always do what they say they are doing. I.E. All wires clear of headers

Anyways, I found that the set of wires coming down the passenger side of the engine bay were laying on the header primary. Not the set for the wheel, but the set that houses the 02 sensor, knock sensor, a ground and starter wires. It was heat wrapped and had the plastic tubing around it, but after I put new 02's in this week I found this set of wires sitting on a header primary burnt pretty badly to the bare wire. Well, it wasnt what was causing my O2 sensor problem since the code stopped after I put new ones in. But since I zip tied the wires away from the header I am still getting codes for my EVAP and Fans. Well my fans dont work at all, not even the fan switch. And even after replacing the EVAP solenoid I still get code 26. I dont think the wires in the burnt pack house fan or EVAP stuff, so those seem like a seperate problem. But what can I do about the set on the passenger side? Do I need a whole new wiring harness or can I just buy a bank 2 set or something? Also, yesterday my car started hesitating upon low thottle in 2nd and 3rd gear. And when I came to a stop sometimes, it would drop below 500rpm and almost stall, like the ABS was stalling out the car. Perhaps it was the near 0* weather or the snow we recently got, but perhaps its the wires. I also did some checking on freescan I have, I dont know much about the numbers, but I do know it never seemed to enter closed loop? Thanks.

-Dustin-

shoebox

Maybe I missed it, but I don't see where you say you checked fuses. The wiring on the PCM side of the O2 connector will just have to be spliced out with some good wire, unless you want to replace the whole harness.

Bersaglieri

Well I really dont want to do that, what gauge wire do I need? And where do you think I should get some? Will the resistance of the new wire affect anything? Its about a 4-6 inch section. I was just about to check the fuses after reading that on your site just now Thanks shoebox.

-Dustin-

shoebox

At least an 18 gauge quality wire should be used. You should be able to find some at an auto supply store.

Bersaglieri

Alright, sounds good, now is there any reason why a larger gauge would be better? I dont want to mess this up and need a new harness, is there any special way I should splice it in? Sotter only or ust trwist in and tape? Thanks a ton shoebox, I am not sure how much you weigh but I bet your worth your weight in gold

-Dustin-

shoebox

The next gauge up would not hurt, but I don't see any reason to use it. Solder and heat shrink tubing is the way I would do it. (make sure the heat shring tubing is slid on before you solder).

Bersaglieri

Thanks again shoebox, this should be fun since the space is very small where this is.

Also do you figure that the burnt wires are causing my car to never enter closed loop? My freescan never registers it in closed. I also think that the sputtering is it perhaps trying to enter closed loop.

-Dustin-

Bersaglieri

Just bringing this to the top before I attempt the wire replacement tomorrow. As of now I'll be using Automotive 18 gauge wire. I am assuming there will be no interference with the reading of the various sensors these wires attach to the PCM.

Would this be why my O2's run 450volts on both even though wire is only burnt on one side? Also why my car wont enter closed loop? Also I was trying to read about knock retard, I am guessing since the wires are burnt its messing up, my knock retard goes from 19-30...which I think is very bad, even though I dont think there are any knocks. Thanks again everyone, and especially shoebox.

-Dustin-

Injuneer

I don't think your knock retard goes from 19-30.... the stock programming limits knock retard to about 15deg, and I doubt any custom programmer would increase that limit. Sounds like you are looking at the "spark advance" not retard.

450mV is the value you will get from the O2 sensors when they are not operating. The PCM supplies a 450mV reference signal, and if the O2 sensor is not capable of adding to or subtracting from that voltage, your scanner will show 450mV (+/-). If the O2 sensors aren't working, it isn't going to go into closed loop.

One reason for the sensors to "not work" would be failure of the heater power supply circuit. If the sensors don't heat up, they don't work. With the LT's, it makes it harder to keep them hot. If the wires shorted to the header primary, even on only one side, there's a chance you blew the fuse for the 12V supply to the O2 sensor heaters. On some years, the fuse that supplies the power to the O2 sensor heater circuit is also the fuse that supplies power to the EVAP solenoid. Did you verify you had +12V to the solenoid before you went out and dropped the coin on a new one?

Not sure how all this ties into the "fans" DTC code, but it could be related via a fuse.

Bersaglieri

Yea I was thinking of spark advance, not retard. And I just found this burnt set of wires which seems to have led to many of the other problems. Had I seen it before I bought and installed the O2's I think it would have saved me some cash, but learning from my mistakes I wont do that again. I'll have to swing by Napa and get some 18 gauge wire and some fuses. I figure the fans have to do with fuses also or the manual fan switch. Thanks so much Injuneer and Shoebox for filling in the blanks, you guys always seem to have that magic missing peice to the puzzle the makes all the other parts fit together. This would also explain my terrible gas mileage. Hopefully reading the Helms manual I orderd will help me be a bit more educated, although I am sure it cant shake a stick at years of hands on experience.

-Dustin-

Bersaglieri

According to shoebox's diagram http://shbox.com/1/1995_pcm2.jpg the fuse that controls these is fuse 6 in the engine compartment which is 10 Amp right? I also found this thread in my searching which seems be a similar problem to mine: http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ht=sensor+fuse Thanks.

-Dustin-

Injuneer

Shoebox's wiring diagrams are specific to the 1995 models. Not necessarily the same for the other years.... close, but not the same. You need to look at a 1994 wiring diagram to be sure. For example, the 95 seems to be the only year that put the "PCM BAT" fuse under the hood.

Bersaglieri

Well I replaced the fuse and repaired the burnt wires, and wow, what a difference, the car runs so much better. Hell even my g/f noticed the difference. SES light is off finally, I'll reset the codes sometime soon. Thanks gentlemen for the help.

-Dustin-