LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Engine chirping.

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Old 09-02-2013, 07:47 AM
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Engine chirping.

Blown head gasket. Right before i took heads apart, I noticed it started making this chirping noise, first time I ever heard it make this. When I pulled the valve cover, one of the rockers between #6, and #8 was jammed into the piece of metal by the PCV in the valve cover. I thought this was the source of the problem.

New head gaskets, new roller lifters, new push rods, etc. Car started up fine and ran for about 5 minutes with no odd noises. Now this damn chirping is back.

I will try to post a video of it later, but since it is labor day, I don't feel like doing any WORK today!

Any suggestions on what it may be?

95LT1
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:03 AM
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Re: Engine chirping.

Sometimes a chirping or screeching can be a bearing. Be prepared for the worst, especially if you got a lot of coolant in the oil.
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:15 AM
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Re: Engine chirping.

Now which bearing. Cam or rod / main. There is no banging, just a chirp. Would removing the wire from the spark plug isolate the cylinder for trouble shooting? I am used to hearing a thud when a bearing is thrown.

I guess jacking the engine up, and removing the pan is my next step. Would hate to have to pull the motor.

Thanks Shoebox!
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:07 PM
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Re: Engine chirping.

Originally Posted by rangers458
Now which bearing........!
Makes no difference,

If you open up the engine to swap out a bad bearing, it would be silly to not swap them all.

After-all.....if one went bad due to a blown head gasket, the others are undoubtably damaged.

But.....you can mess around and just replace the one that you believe is bad. Go ahead ....

KW
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:10 PM
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Re: Engine chirping.

Mine was chirping on the dyno.. It was getting a Tune for head/cam swap they couldnt get it past 330 RWHP and noticed a slight stumble/chirp when idling.. Turned out to be rod/main bearings were toast.. holding the motor back.. I concur for the cost of bearings I would do them all provided no surface damage on rods and crank.. Not the case for me lots of surface wear.. Im collecting cans for a bottom end project..

Good luck dude..
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Old 09-08-2013, 10:11 AM
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Re: Engine chirping.

I intend to change out all the bearings, it would be foolish not to. Can the bottom end be done in the car or would it be worth it just to pull the whole motor?

If I take the intake off, I should be able to jack the motor up to pull the pan, etc. Has anyone done this any need to do's before I start? I know on older cars you are able to jack the motor up off the mounts, and place some wood blocks between the mount, but with everything so tight down there, would just like some input from someone who has done this.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-08-2013, 01:07 PM
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Re: Engine chirping.

If you are going to change all the bearings, the engine has to come out. You might be able to half-a$$ the rod and crank bearings (how are you going to accurately measure clearances?), but the cam bearings cannot be done with the engine in the car. Do it right with the engine removed. Also, easier in the long run. MHO.
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Old 09-08-2013, 06:48 PM
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Re: Engine chirping.

I am thinking that route as well, however, I just do not have the room in my garage to do the motor from the bottom technique, is it possible to pull it from the top? I know the clearance looks tight, but with the intake off, it looks like it should be able to be done. I read a lot of the old posts on here, and most deal with the bottom out procedure. I do have access to a mid 70's block that is bored .30 over, not sure if that would work with the accessories on the front end, or if that would be the easiest route for replacement. (I was planning on putting that block in my '67.)

I mean if I am going to pull the motor, and do the bearings, etc, I should have the block checked, and at the least put in new rings, with all the other work.

BTW, Shoebox, love your website, has helped me out on more than one occasion!
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Old 09-08-2013, 07:16 PM
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Re: Engine chirping.

You can't replace an LT1 block (Gen 2 SBC) with a Gen 1 SBC block. Totally different front on the block - water pump, Optspark distributor, thermostat. I guess you could replace it if you could squeeze the Gen 1 distributor under the cowl, and convert to a carb setup that would fit under the hood, instead of EFI.
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:48 PM
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Its not too bad to go out the top with the happy hooker. Ive done both within a short period of time and I preferred the bottom method. I really dont think its much more room needed to go out the bottom(given your not rolling car out as your picking the motor up and out the top as the cherry picker needs nearly as much space to get out).


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