Javier97Z28

My budget can't really handle a $2k rebuild + the tranny unfortunately. And a rebuild alone would be pointless since the tranny can't hold it.

I'm probably going to get rid of my jetski to cover the bills that this is gonna bring

I plan to build a stronger motor in the future though... I just need to get her back on the road, and if a fresh LT1 will do it, then I will.

Not sure what the services I'm looking for will cost me, so I guess we'll see.

Loadre

You don't need jetskis in TN anyway.

SStrokerAce

First off that really sucks.

#1. If the lifter bores in the block are toast, it's not very budget oriented to fix the block. That's about a $500 to do them all. Easier just to run a new block.

#2. You can get Morel's with the cross bar setup.

#3. The cam journals are going to tell you everything. If they are clean then you should be ok with the crank and rod journals.

#4. if you have to get in there, might as well do a set of rod bolts as well.

Bret

cehan

I had the exact same lifter spider failure cause the demise of my original LT1 (I now have a 383, so it worked out OK for me after all ). But I'm just wondering how common is the lifter spider failure? The spider is just a spring, and everytime the cam pushes up on the lifters, it would tend to exert upward pressure on the spider fingers, especially with a high lift cam. So even though it's a small movement, maybe over time the spring weakens and when you accidentally get an over rev condition, the spring finally fails.

Here's an idea. I can't exactly remember if it would fit, but how about doubling up on the spider. Use two of them, on on top of the other, with longer bolts. If they would nest together nice and tight, that would surely help.

Javier97Z28

Lifter bores felt nice and smooth.. I'm not really sure how to tell when they are OK.. ya know? What should I look for?

SStrokerAce

If there are no grooves or nicks in them you should be ok.

Bret

gex598

Javier about the lifters see my post in your original story! I really like this new design I have. Same story here with the metal and all... I'm thinking that it should be ok as I only ran it shortly after the failure. I'll have the cam out monday. BTW what lifter was it that failed? I lost the #7 exhaust lifter. Brett would a AFR hydra-rev kit kept the lifter in the bore even if it collapsed or the polylock backed off? Right now that 200-300 bucks looks like cheap insurance vs. all this work and parts again!

Jason

Dave89IROC

one thing about the polylock issue, are/were you running aftermarket or stock studs?

polylocks require aftermarket studs with the tops machined flat(standard on aftermarket studs) for proper torque retension, I can't remember if stock studs are flat on top, I will check tomorrow for sure

Eddie Z-28

Javier,

I'm sorry about what happened!! I saw those videos and it looked like that car was running great!

My question is what exactly happened with the lifters? Can someone better describe what happened? I just tore apart my motor today and planned on just having my lifters resurfaced. Maybe thats a bad idea?

Javier97Z28

Aftermarket comp 7/16" studs.

Eddie, when the lifter retainer spider bends up it lets the retainers themselves come off the lifters. This allows the lifters to turn in their bores and the cam just chews them up.

I've never heard of resurfacing roller lifters? Not sure what that really even means..

HardcoreRM125

Probably cleaning up the "spun" side of it, and putting a new roller bearing on it.

**** that though. Just buy a set or Morel lifters.

I think I would probably just replace the lifters for now, if the lifter bores turn out to be ok. Maybe pull the oil pan too to make sure all the **** is out of there.

I mean, it cant hurt to do the bearings, and all that. But that is that much more money that if you can get by now, you can throw at it later to make an even more solid set up.

Really though, in the end, your the one that knows how bad you beat on the car, and what kind of condition its in. I would pretty much go by whatever Bret, or someone else reputable who builds these things says you should go with. I mean, afterall it would suck to do bearings and all that if you dont have to. Especially if your building a motor for it in the summer anyways. You could always just not run it for a few weeks too and wait until you have the money to do it all right.

Its not your daily driver right? I wouldnt think so based on your set up.

And not to make your day worse, but once you get the motor and tranny going, I'd go easy on that 10 bolt for a whlie lol. I seen your video ( Its AWESOME btw) and it seems like you arent easy on the car so the rear is probly going to let loose on you some time soon too.

It sucks how everything always seems to go at once.

Good Luck with everything though. I've been following your posts for a while now, and was very impressed with the video. Hope you get her up on the road as soon as you can.

Eddie Z-28

Thanks for the follow up guys. If I could work up the extra bucks for the lifters I guess I will. I'm a little nervous now.

Dave89IROC

ok, not the problem there then

Javier97Z28

I'm not going to lie.. I beat the hell out of my car. I take care of her (maintenance) and keep her looking as good as I can, but I don't treat her nicely.

That 10 bolt has 300+ passes on it, not making any noise yet, but it will eventually go. If I don't get the tires wet enough in the waterbox I end up doing a one wheel peel with my burnouts.

Only reason I really want to do a simple rebuild is to avoid trashing yet *another* cam. Both my old 224/230 cam (I was planning on throwing that back in temporarily) and my LE2 are trashed. Once those lifters spin in the bore they start to bounce on those cam lobes. Result ain't purty.

Kevin Blown 95 TA

I was going to mention the Hydra-Rev kit. I'm putting one in my 383 and that should give better control to the lifters. Not sure how well the rev kit springs will match up to the beehives with regards to harmonics, though. Guess I'll find out this spring. The AFR rev kits are $230 or so at Flatlander Racing, although I watched a well used one sell for $250 on Ebay

I'm not sure the spider was your problem. That can't be expected to hold a heavy lifter on a bouncing cam lobe if the rocker is backed off. That spider is just to hold the lifter guides in position. The pushrod/rocker/valve spring pressure is needed to hold the lifter on the cam. A rev kit might just save a cam and lifters in the event a valve train part gives out.