toegead93

The stock valve covers just need to be moddified, I just had this done last week...http://www.hotss.com/Members/scott_vaca/pro-mag.htm
I also agree, the stock heads are fine if you get a cam that works well with it like the Hotcam, the ZZ9, and the Crane 104227 (which is going in my car now). Do a search on these cams, some guys are running low 12's/high 11's with stock heads and these small cams. Gears aren't the only thing that are going to put stress opn your rearend though, once you get into real power you can't really avoid putting stress on the rear unless you don't care about traction. Gears or a cam, both add more stress.

96trans am

I agree, the rear is going to need to be replaced, no if ands or buts. The question is when? That may be worth doing now! I replaced the rear at a rather early time due to the breaking of my 10-bolt. I dont agree with some of the cam choices, IMO they are some rather baby cams(also depending on what you want). Id like to see some low 12's to high 11's running them cams. I dont see it happening with stock heads. Id go with the Comp Cams "305" cam before the hotcam. A lot of the cam choices have to do with the tuning but even the very good tuners, I dont see anyone runnning low 12's, to high 11's with them cams, on stock heads. If they are, let me see, that sounds like some rather amazing times. You could only be so lucky running them times with much bigger cams, such as the Comp Cams "306" and the GM847 cam. For my cam choice i was leaning towards some of the Comp Cams "Extreme" cams such as the "Extreme" 230/236. the 220/224 is a nice cam as well. But in my opinion i wouldnt go with any of these cams. Im not a fan of an "off the shelf" cam. The best way to go is to custom grind a cam. Thats why i would say talk to Joe Overton, which is the route i am going. And i still dont agree with the stock heads flowing good, depending on the cam you choose. The stock heads flow terribly no matter what cam is in it. The stock heads suck, thats all their is too it. Replace the cam and the heads.

AlwaysCode390

Thanks for the cam suggestions guys!!! Even the 305 cam will be good enough for daily driving without being too radical (overheating ect?). Even the ported lt1 heads wont be good enough huh? What brand do you recommend 96'? Are you suggesting I get a 12 bolt??!! Again, any recommendations? Should I go posi or keep it limited slip?

96trans am

Yeah i definately suggest you get a 12-bolt either now or later depending how much you want to stretch your luck. If you wanted to gear it, which i beleive you said in much earlier posts, invest into a 12-bolt. I went with a Moser 12-bolt, or you could go with a strange 12-bolt. Yeah you def. want a posi. Probably want some 4:11's in their, thats what i went with. You have 6 gears so thats great, gas wont be too bad.

No, there will be no overheating problems or vacumm problems with a little "305" cam. I probably wouldnt go with that cam anyway. If you are going to do heads/cam you are going to want to match them together. Thats why i suggest going with one of Joe's or Lloyds head/cam packages. Thats probably the way you want to go. They can suite your needs and it makes thing much easier for you. Also the good thing about going with heads is you can go with a smaller cam then you would if you didnt go with heads. This way the car will be much more driveable. Besides obviously doing new heads/cam, just remember there are other things you will need to do as well. Just like toegead93 posted the rear will eventually need to be replaced. Some things to compliment the head/cam. Probably need a 52mm or 58mm throttle body, some ford 30# injectors will probably help, Longtubes and offroad y-pipe preferably, replace timing chain and gears while your in there, a tune most definately. So in the end after having all these bolt-ons you need, heads/cam, and whatever else, it comes out to be expensive. Thats why i cant afford heads right now. Which means i will have to rip the motor apart all over again at a later date.

toegead93

see this thread:
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ock+head+times

Not being capbale of ruinnng fast times with "baby cams" is the biggest general misconception I see on this site. Do a search on these cams and you will see plenty of good times. A local guy here at Moroso has run a 12.06 @ 112.81 1.66 60' with his 210/224 Crane cam and stock heads and Gregg 97z on this site has run 12.15 @115.3 & 1.81 60'. There are faster cars out there too. These cams work with the deficiencies of the stock heads to make power and yes, they will run equal to some cam/head combinations. I'm not saying their max. hp and torque numbers will be equal to a cam/head car, but their broad, flat torque curves provide a lot of torque under the curve to acclerate the car. I mention these small cams if you want a streetable car and don't want to worry about tuning and spending money on heads. Your set-up depends on what you want out of your car and how you use it, I'm just trying to show you there is more than one way to make your car fast.

AlwaysCode390

Toegead, that is actually a very interesting approach with the stock heads/mild cam!!! 96 trans....I went to the Elliot website. His packages for the lt1....are they all new heads and custom ground cam or are they a new cam and he PORTS your heads? I am sorta confused. I think they are bolt on heads and just install the cam?! That would be perfect. I think for streetablily I would get the #1 package of around 400rwhp. Thanks

96trans am

Most likely have to send him your heads, thats what i would assume. I went to the site and the majority of people on there are using cams like the GM847 cam and the Comp Cams "306" cam. These are not small cams. Other then that i see nitrous setups. Are we not talking N/A cars. Were also talking full weight as well as street/strip setups as well, not cars on slicks. I seen the Frank guy post hes never seen 11's on stock heads. I did see a few names mentioned that they ran high 11's or low 12's with small cams but they never posted any info.

AlwaysCode390

Yeah, I just saw the specs on the 306 and its definately stronger than the other comp cams I saw for the lt1....lol. I thought he custom ground them cams but I am guessing not. I think I will get a new set of heads then. I am going to go through my summit and pick out parts, youve been great 96 TA....I appreciate it. Maybe you can help me pick my parts or give me advise when I post what I think will run good, thanks---

Heatmaker

I see where you read my post wrong. I'm not talking about 4:10's are good because they spin (due to a short 1st gear) I never said that. I said traction breaks rear ends I.E. The traction you get from DRs on a typical launch. Unless he's getting some very low DR type 60 times gears won't hurt him. All they will do is get him down the track quicker. He has an M6 and I have an M6 and I do heavy abuse on the rear end with 555's on drag bags and the other traction goodies. The rear end should hold up fine. My point is a 10 bolt breaking due to the ratios of 4.10's is a false statement... this comming from someone who has raced on them for years on a 10 bolt. I don't like to see new guys getting bad info...that's a bad way to start out when modding your car.

96trans am

Ok so you are telling me that having a larger gear ratio has no more abuse on a rear then a smaller gear ratio. Yeah these rears are soo strong i made about 3 passes and a couple days later mine took a ****. Stock gears on an m6 running Nitto's.

96trans am

Breaking the POS 10-bolts are pretty much everywhere on every site. There on here, there on ls1tech.com, and there on EFA which is where i usually post. Heres a thread here about putting 4:10's in a 10bolt. http://www.fbodycentral.com/forum/sh...t&pagenumber=1