speed_demon24

I've had this cam for about a year now, and it's never done that, and the flashing light happens when I'm driving, not at idle.

speed_demon24

I dropped a plug a few times before I finally got it in, but I looked at it very close and I didn't see any cracks. And I started up my car in the pitch black, and there is no signs of arcing at at all. I don't have the ERG on anymore, and the I'm pretty sure there's no vacume leaks. It is a lot worse under load, but its starting to backfire during cruising now too. It does it at any speed, from idle to whatever, and it still does it at WOT too.

speed_demon24

OBD2

Javier97Z28

Have you checked fuel pressure under load as well as at idle?

speed_demon24

Yep, both are fine, if anything its a tad on the high side, around 45-47 at idle with the vacume line connected, and 50 with it disconnected.

Javier97Z28

I think I've asked this before, but false knock pulling timing?

speed_demon24

Sometimes it gets KR, sometimes it doesn't, missed just as bad with KR as it does without.

Javier97Z28

I guess some issue with the PCM is the last thing that can be tried really..

If all the ignition checks out
If fuel pressure at WOT, idle, and everywhere b/w is OK
If injectors check out OK
If valve lash is OK

Yeesh..

speed_demon24

Valve lash was done 2 months ago, ignition is all good, fuel pressure was tested, and the injectors were tested at a shop too. I guess I can have brian send me another pcm and see if that helps.

BA383TA

You may have marginal or faulty sensors, MAP/inlet air temp/coolant temp. Those can screw up your air/fuel ratio's.

speed_demon24

All of those look fine on the scanmaster...

1racerdude

As was said earlier gap the plugs to .035 and try it.It won't hurt a thing. Ya might want to try some plugs with no exotic metal also, as the caps tend to fall off of them and create a BIG gap. Don't cost anything but some time either.
Look at the plugs when ya got them out and check the resistor in each plug with an ohm meter.

Jon A

PCM's can and do go bad and often they display symptoms just like you're experiencing. If you follow the factory service manual for symptoms like this, in almost every section it'll say replace this, replace that, test this, test that.....and if none of that works replace the PCM.

You are likely at that point.

97FormulaWS-6

Check your sensor wiring. I has a intermittent miss for 2 seasons that was at times so bad that the car would barely run. After spending over $1200 on ignition parts and ungodly amounts of hours trying to find it; I found that someone had used an un-sealed blue-butt connector to splice the coolant temp sensor for the PCM and buried it in the wire loom. The wires were soo corroded that when I finally found it, no lie, there was one strand of wire still crimped into it.

It's little things like that, that can cause the headaches like you're dealing with.

jbsupra89t

Like was mentioned check the PCM... almost same thing occurred with my friend's car. Good luck, enjoying thsoe ZR1s?

-J