NVetro

Wanted to run a few things by you all, and see what you think. I aquired an LT1 out of a 1994 Caprice Police Car (yes its still a 2 bolt main). I just got done taking it all apart, internals and all so the machine shop can do what they have to do. I plan to run a fully forged eagle bottom end, running a set of TEA "stage 3" heads (stock lt1 casting), and a custom cam, should be running about an 11:1 compression ratio. I will also be spraying anywhere from a 50 to 150 shot of n2o from a wet NX kit. My question is about the main caps. The motor is a 2 bolt main, will it handle the NA and the n2o power it will put out? Also, obviously I will be putting in new main berrings but the machine shop said he is going to reuse the stock main caps but he will be using an ARP bolt and stud kit, I know the ARP bolts and studs will work fine but im alittle edgey about using those stock caps, I DONT want to spin a main berring? I would think the motor with 150 shot of n2o should be making about 600hp maybe more, maybe alittle less, who knows. Onto my second question. This car is not a daily driver, I will be taking it to the track, out on the weekends, and sometimes the occasional 150 mile trip. Lets say I did not want to go with a custom cam, what cam would you recomend from comp cams? Anyone running the Comp Cams TS233XR Camshaft 233/242? I want this motor to be powerfull both NA and w/ the n2o. With this cam, the heads I will be running, and the 383 stroker assembaly what do you think the motor will make N/A at the flywheel? And last but not least...I am not sure what size injectors to run, either 36lbs or 42lbs, Dave from combonation motorsports said either of those are fine, Ion from madz28.com is doing my tuning, what would you guys run? I also have a racetronix fuel pump. With this setup am i also going to need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? Thanks alot all in advance.

got_hp?

might as well spend a little extra dough and get splayed 4bolt main caps.

once you get your head flow numbers, call combo or whoever youre buying the other parts from and have them custom grind a cam. custom cams cost about the same anyway, and will make more power.

get 42lb'ers..........36 will work, but it doesnt hurt to get a little bigger than you need, that way you have headroom for upgrades down the road, and the injectors dont have to work hard.

im pretty sure you dont need an aftermarket AFPR, just use the stocker.

96m6lt1

while you are in the motor it would not hurt to splay the mains,i just hope you dont think it is something that you have to do,there have been many hi hp/tq 2-bolt main motors out there.personally i would do it!

NVetro

hmm thanks guys. I guess I am going to leave them as 2 bolt mains, it seems like it costs a HELL of alot of $$$ for new caps and the extra machine work. If other people are running 700-900 hp with a charger and n2o I think I'll be fine, just wanted your opinions. Also, if I keep the stock 2 bolt, do I HAVE to use the stock caps (new berrings obviously). Will i have more chance of spinning a main berrings with the stock iron caps?

NVetro

ALSO, I pulled up the flow numbers on my heads. They are TEA "Stage 3" heads, here are the flow numbers:

lift intake exhaust

0.100 70.2 56.8
0.200 149.7 115.0
0.300 209.5 164.4
0.400 250.9 201.5
0.500 268.1 227.5
0.550 270.4 239.8
0.600 276.1 246.0

Exhaust side was flowed with a pipe, if your wondering why the exhaust side is so high. With these flow numbers, that forged bottom end in the 383 stroker, running n2o. What cam would you recomend now that you have the flow numbers?

96m6lt1

as long as your machine work is done properly,have your crank checked and polished,use the best bearings you can find(IMO federal mogul H bearings are the best).....don't over rev the motor,which the purpose of a 383 is to have maxtq and hp at a lower rpm 5800 roughly.you will be fine.

gb95zconv

You can do 4 bolt parallel mains for about $125 that includes the caps , bolts and labor.....thats the route I went.

NVetro

gb95zconv please explain. My engine shop said it would be like $800 including the new caps becuase the caps on the motor originaly were machined with the block and those have to stay. This is a VERY repituable engine shop, maybe he doesn't know they make generic caps to replace the 5 caps on the motor and the only thing he has to do is tap a new bolt hole in the block?