Silvershark

I am in the process of removing my engine and stroking it.

I have been debating forever on which pump setup to go with. However, I think I have made a final decision. 1. is the setup I am going to go with. 2. is the setup I was debating on.

1.
GM white oil pump spring Part Number: #3848911
GM oil pump screen Part Number: #12550042
GM oil pump Part Number: #12555283
Melling Oil pump shaft w/metal collar Part Number: #IS-55E ?

2.
Melling Oil Pump, High Volume, 3/4" inlet, 1992-1997 SBC/LT1 Part Number: #156-M155HV
Melling Oil Pump Pickup, 3/4" diameter, 1993-1997 LT1 F-body Part Number: #156-155-S
GM white oil pump spring Part Number: #3848911

Please post your experience/suggestions on the HV Melling pump and the stock setup with the white spring. I want to make sure I get the correct parts and I am not missing something in the process.

Kendall

Silvershark

Oops, can you please move this to LT1 Tech.

Sorry.

AL SS590 M6

Yep no problem.

Silvershark

Any suggestions?

blown383

So which set up did you go with?

-B

Silvershark

This is an old thread, however I went with setup 2. I hold at 60 all day long.

SVThuh

What RPM's do you spin to, what was the motor built for? Road racing, drag racing, daily driving, all of the above? What Oil pan did you go with, whats the capacity? Does the High Volume pump ever suck the pan dry? I have heard of this happening with a HV/HP pump, and I am debating on what I want to do with my new 355.

(Almost leaning towards a dry sump, but I cant justify the costs!)

Thanks...

Also Bin, whats up with your motor? Last I heard you decided on the 383 and you were buying a blower, but thats the last I heard.. Any more progress?? Hit me up on AIM!

1racerdude

Is this a street engine or a trailer queen? If it's street ya don't want to fool with a dry sump,it will give ya a headache big time.

SVThuh

Its honestly more of a racecar for the street, esp with the new motor.. Im actually looking into the dry sump for weighting reasons. This car is basically built around an idea of a street car (with AC and power everything) that can hit up WSIR and whoop some *** on some exotics and then drive home and kill just about anything in the canyons or on the freeway... all while getting me to and from work in the meantime when I feel like driving it. (I have a truck that I beat on on a regular basis)

The drysump is more of a pipe dream than anything, but I would like to make it happen on one of my future projects.

1racerdude

The biggest reason is to find the room to put it and the HP it takes to drive it and the maint. It isn't a bolt on.

blown383

Welp I ended up buying a ATI D1 Procharger and now I'm gathering parts to support the blower. So far I've collected the 83# injectors, Acceleronics versafueler to run the the low impedance injectors, MSD boost-a-pump, racetronix fuel pump and harness, autometer boost guage, areomotive AFPR, and finally the BMR K-member.

Things I still need to buy/do -

BMR upper and lower front A-arms, canton pan with the right oil pump and pick up, dual keyed big block balancer, get my timing chain cover machined for the big block hub, autometer electric fuel pressure gauge, pick a blower cam, ship out my blower bracket to SDCE to get their tensioner set up, hack up the front bumper for a front mounted intercooler, and of course I still need to yank the motor and order the updated intake assembly from ATI. I also need to get my computer to MadZ28 so he can give me a rough tune to break in the motor, I'm about half way into dropping the motor as we speak. I'm hoping to have the motor in the machine shop before the end of the year.

-B

97s10ondubs

I did the same setup w/ my 383, canton pan and melling HV. I had a stock pump, but while trying to put the pickup on i broke it, dont ask me how it just broke. So i went to discount auto to get another stock one and they only carried HV. So me being impatient i put the HV in, i cant complain though i get like 40-60 at idle all the time and 60 while driving. NEVER sucked the pan dry, but the canton holds more oil and has good baffles. Trust me i look at my oil gauge when i get on it, dont want a repeat of my last motor.

rskrause

I said this here before, so for the eleventybillionth time I want to warn people: don't run a HV pump and a stock pan. Yes, I know there are people doing it with no problems. I also know of more than one motor that was destroyed that way. Bigger is not always better. An LT1 with standard clearances does not need a HV pump. But if you choose to run one, get an aftermarket pan. If you want to ignore my advice and run a HV pump with a stock pan, at least keep the oil level on the high side.

Rich

SiCk PuPpY

Rich,
Please elaborate on "standard clearances". On a hot street setup with the factory pan, would a Melling HP pump (for the aniti-cavitation feature) be best or simply check clearances on the factory unit, intall the white spring and tack the pick-up tube? I'm running the H series cam/rod/main bearings in my F.I. 355.

rskrause

A stock pump that has been checked and the white spring is a great way to go, especially with a stock pan. Besides the pump volume, bearing (especially mains) and rod side clearances are the major determinates of oil pressure. If they are set up large (loose) you need a higher volume pump to maintain pressure. If they are within the usual range, a stock volume pump is more than sufficient. It takes less hp to drive a standard volume pump and it avoids the serious risk of pumping enough oil out of the pan to drop the pressure and perhaps cause engine damage - something that I have seen happen with a HV pump and a stock pan.

If for some reason any of you have it in your heads to run a HV pump, PLEASE use a better pan than the stocker.

Rich