blitz1029

I finally get to the track and got only one run because my drive belt came off, due to my alternator bracket breaking. that run i bogged (3k rpm launch) very bad and then wheel hopped on 1st and 2nd gear. I was also running 91 octane on that run. I was going to get 112 octane on the next run. I'm not very happy about my run but i know i can do much better when i go next friday. My time was 12.65@115.11

I got all bolt-ons: pro mag 1.6 rockers, 42lb injectors pacesetter LTs, custom exhaust true dual x-pipe dynomax bullets. Electric waterpump, etc. This is on a mail order tune from pcmforless. I'm also still running stock throttle body.

Any comments or suggestions?

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/4...620166e541.htm

SS MPSTR

What was the DA?

Javier97Z28

My only comment is I hope to God I'm running 120+ traps with my LE setup.. all these posts lately are terrifying me.

Jlo

58mm TB, and work on you're 60ft all in all great numbers. I'm smelling 11's

johnny3986

I'd look into a bigger throttlebody. Lloyds website states that a 58mm TB would work best for you. I have no idea how much though....

I'd be anxious to see those times with good traction, 112, and a bigger TB.

JasonK94Z

Definetely needs a 58mm throttle body. Also, try to find a place to get a dyno tune. Just some more minor fixes and you'll have your car sorted out in no time.

What suspension mods do you have?

MeanGreen97Z

That car has more MPH in it even the way it sits now. If you threw the belt/broke the mount, bogged the launch, and wheel hopped 1st and 2nd... i'd say you got a lot more in the car the way it sits. Get the car back to running condition and get some more passes in. I bet you break 118mph. Get the TB and a dyno tune and welcome to the 120s.

Black6spdZ

120s are definately possible. I ran 122.7mph on 18" Z06 with a base tune and weak stock fuel pump in a full weight (even AC) t-top car. With a good tune and pump i think my car is definately capable of 125plus mph

Scott

speed_demon24

Make sure you get a dyno tune, these mail order tunes are killing all these setups. Theres nothing like gaining 30 ft lbs of torque down low. Hell I trapped 114.5 on my only run on motor in 85+ degree weather in a full weight car with no skinnies ect with who knows what kinda heads. If you want a dyno tune let me know I'll pm you when Jeremy formato comes back down, I'm going to get re-tuned for my intake manifold and a couple friends I know are going to get tuned. It only cost me $350 when I got tuned last time, it should be around the same for you, mabey cheaper since dyno time will be less.

blitz1029

I have stock suspension. Actually front suspension is very bad. I plan on getting a 58mm tb soon. Then after that a dyno tune. i think i get a good 2-3 more mph out of it for sure when i go next friday

Javier97Z28

I agree the mail order tunes make the car run, but nowhere near the potential they have.

I'm not sure I can dyno-tune without a tranny to hold the power on the dyno? I guess it's possible, but I'd have to have my shift point lowered again after the tune :/ ARGH

lemme know tho.

speed_demon24

The dyno's only done in 3rd gear, so if your tranny doesn't slip from a 3rd gear roll it should be fine on the dyno.

Javier97Z28

Cool.. I thought that was the case, so I guess it should be OK. Keep me up to date, if the funds are there I'll give it a shot.

NightTrain66

definitely get a bigger TB and "at least" a dyno pull with A/F and data logs showing KR, O2's, BLM's, timing curve, etc, etc. The info provided here will go ALONG way in telling the tuner what needs to be changed or what is at fault. This helps people find bad O2's, bad fuel pumps, plug wires, coil, opti, etc, etc.

The dyno run will give some great info and not just the HP/TQ #'s themselves but the "shape" of the curves and RPM that they peak at will tell you if there is a problem or not. If the #'s are not smooth and arched one way (more like a rainbow) you have some problems to sort out. If the curves have jagged, squiggly lines or S- shaped in any way or just reach a certain RPM and stay flat for no reason, you at least have an idea where to look.

This info is helpful to a dyno tuner or mail order tuner if they are gonna get you an "updated tune".

Any noise or knocking (rocker arms, lifters, LT headers, true duals, cracked alt bracket, alt bearings, low on power steering fluid, moving exhaust, solid motor mounts, etc, etc) can cause false knock and this can pull 5* of timing and KILL horse power.

There are ALOT of ways to lose horse power and the list seems endless until you get most of them squared away.

I was about "this" close to just putting a carb and dist in my LT1 after jacking with all this crap for what seemed like forever and finally got this stuff working like it should and not a second too soon.

The above part of the post was about making horse power and getting the engine ironed out. Get this ironed out and then the below part of my post is how to make the car faster at the track.

What is the cars weight, gear, stall and tire size/type? These are VERY important to track times. Let us knoiw these things and we can help diagnose whats wrong.

Every 100 lbs you remove from the car, it will be 1/10 of a second faster in the 1/8 and 1/4 mile and gain about 1/2 of a MPH. If a 3800 lb car is running 12.6 at 115 MPH and you remove 300 lbs from the car, you could be running 12.3 at 117 MPH with out making 1 more HP. Just removing weight. I have no idea about your eight but this gives youi an idea about how it hurts track performance.

Going from a 3.23/3.42 to a 3.73/4.11 can result in another 2 tenths with the same HP.

60 ft times are VERY critical to track times and every tenth removed from the 60 ft will result in 1.5-2.0 tenths in the 1/8 or 1/4. Most semi quick cars are getting a 1.6X 60 ft and your car is getting a high 2.0X 60 ft. Remove 4 tenths from your 60 ft and you will be 6 to 8 tenths faster in the 1/8 and 1/4 mile. That turns yoir 12.6 into a 12.0-11.8 with the same weight, gear and MPH.

Playing with stall, traction, gears, tires, disconnect front sway bar, etc, can help the cars track performance even with the engine running like it is.

Improve on these areas and the ET will DROP.

WS Sick

Also what gears do you have in the rear?

Going from a 3.23 to 3.73s (as an example) would give you 2-3 mph from that alone!