Finally!..My cam specs are in!...BUT, is this too big?
08-18-2006, 09:37 PM
#33
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Baton Rouge, la
Posts: 989
Re: Finally!!! I got my new cam specs...BUT is this too big?
for a weekend toy with a good tune and a vacume canister for the brakes you can get away with that ont he street. For a DD...i think your gonna get tired of it quickly. for reference ..I run a 255/263 110ls, lift..well..above 650..lol..solid in a 355. Brakes are great though suprisingly and has pretty good low end also..but..makes peak power at 6750ish and only looses 3 hp by 7400 rpm.
If you want to see what that sounds like...here ya go http://95formula.ls2.com/Video/idle.wmv
If you want to see what that sounds like...here ya go http://95formula.ls2.com/Video/idle.wmv
08-19-2006, 06:20 AM
#39
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Red Oak Texas
Posts: 1,509
Re: Finally!!! I got my new cam specs...BUT is this too big?
solid rollers are way different than a hyd roller so the @ .050 are gonna show something WAY different than most are used to as far as power band, vacuum, etc.
If you trust your cam guy and he has informed you about what to expect with this cam (what springs, how often to replace them, what lifters, how often to replace them, how often to adjust valve trane, what pushrods and rockers to use, etc, etc) and he understands what you are after (yearly mileage, RPM range, drivability, vacuum converns, gear, stall, shift RPM, etc, etc) than it IS the right cam.
Cam lift - no problem there as long as you know what springs to use, how much they are and how often to replace them. When it comes to lift, use as much lift as you can afford to keep springs on the car with and you will make more power. Lower lift = cheeper springs and replaced less often while making a lil less power. Higher lift = more expensive springs replaced more often, better valve trane (rockers, pushrods, lifters) and more power.
Solid Roller - they make more power and there is really nothing wrong with them for a track car but alot of people on this board are expecting a 40-50 HP increase from going solid roller and then have the springs last 4-5 years and 8-10 K a year of street miles. A streetable solid roller that is this easy on the valve trane will NOT get you 40-50 HP over a GOOD hyd roller if we are talking about the average build up (420-460 RWHP with LTX intake, 1 3/4 headers, full exhaust, etc) since alot of other things are restrictions. If you have never ran a solid roller, get with your cam guy on everything here and make sure both of you understand what the other is telling you. If you never have ran one, get with someone that has before you do and make sure that you are ready to run one. It is not the best choice for most people.
Duration and LSA - LSA is just something you are left with after getting the lobes you want and having them placed where you want. Nothing wrong with big @ .050 duration and a 106 LSA if the cubes, compression and DCR are taken into consideration. If not, the car might NEVER run like it should, especially when trying to run pump gas. Most would be surprised at what kinda vacuum you can get from a solid roller on a tight LSA.
The info here was meant for the average guy wanting to go solid roller and in your case, just get with the cam guy and make sure bothe of you understand what you are wanting and if you trust the guy, run it.
Lloyd
If you trust your cam guy and he has informed you about what to expect with this cam (what springs, how often to replace them, what lifters, how often to replace them, how often to adjust valve trane, what pushrods and rockers to use, etc, etc) and he understands what you are after (yearly mileage, RPM range, drivability, vacuum converns, gear, stall, shift RPM, etc, etc) than it IS the right cam.
Cam lift - no problem there as long as you know what springs to use, how much they are and how often to replace them. When it comes to lift, use as much lift as you can afford to keep springs on the car with and you will make more power. Lower lift = cheeper springs and replaced less often while making a lil less power. Higher lift = more expensive springs replaced more often, better valve trane (rockers, pushrods, lifters) and more power.
Solid Roller - they make more power and there is really nothing wrong with them for a track car but alot of people on this board are expecting a 40-50 HP increase from going solid roller and then have the springs last 4-5 years and 8-10 K a year of street miles. A streetable solid roller that is this easy on the valve trane will NOT get you 40-50 HP over a GOOD hyd roller if we are talking about the average build up (420-460 RWHP with LTX intake, 1 3/4 headers, full exhaust, etc) since alot of other things are restrictions. If you have never ran a solid roller, get with your cam guy on everything here and make sure both of you understand what the other is telling you. If you never have ran one, get with someone that has before you do and make sure that you are ready to run one. It is not the best choice for most people.
Duration and LSA - LSA is just something you are left with after getting the lobes you want and having them placed where you want. Nothing wrong with big @ .050 duration and a 106 LSA if the cubes, compression and DCR are taken into consideration. If not, the car might NEVER run like it should, especially when trying to run pump gas. Most would be surprised at what kinda vacuum you can get from a solid roller on a tight LSA.
The info here was meant for the average guy wanting to go solid roller and in your case, just get with the cam guy and make sure bothe of you understand what you are wanting and if you trust the guy, run it.
Lloyd
08-19-2006, 07:34 AM
#40
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Mobile, Ala..USA
Posts: 1,935
Re: Finally!..My cam specs are in!...BUT, is this too big?
Run that beotch BE A MAN!!!
If your engine builder/cam provider recommends it........but ya gotta be sensible..as Pops says"she gonna be a popcorn popper".....e mail my Dad with all the specifics..he might shed some light.
racerdude@comcast.net
looks ok to me, we dont know what lobe that is or the ramp rates or anything else about that cam other than posted numbers, which can be decieving sometimes, all depends on the rest of the combo.
David
If your engine builder/cam provider recommends it........but ya gotta be sensible..as Pops says"she gonna be a popcorn popper".....e mail my Dad with all the specifics..he might shed some light.
racerdude@comcast.net
looks ok to me, we dont know what lobe that is or the ramp rates or anything else about that cam other than posted numbers, which can be decieving sometimes, all depends on the rest of the combo.
David
08-19-2006, 08:24 AM
#41
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Buffalo, New York
Posts: 10,745
Re: Finally!..My cam specs are in!...BUT, is this too big?
Just to be clear, that cam is WAY too big for a car that will see any street time. The rest of the intake system will probably not support it, but if it did the combo would not start making power until at least 4,000rpm and would likely peak at over 8,000. It will need a stall in the 5,000rpm range and a CR of at least 13:1. Most likely it will simply run terrible due to component mismatch.
Good luck, I'd be curious how it works if you decide to try it.
Rich
Good luck, I'd be curious how it works if you decide to try it.
Rich
08-19-2006, 03:57 PM
#45
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Double Oak TX
Posts: 752
Re: Finally!..My cam specs are in!...BUT, is this too big?
Originally Posted by rskrause
Just to be clear, that cam is WAY too big for a car that will see any street time. The rest of the intake system will probably not support it, but if it did the combo would not start making power until at least 4,000rpm and would likely peak at over 8,000. It will need a stall in the 5,000rpm range and a CR of at least 13:1. Most likely it will simply run terrible due to component mismatch.
Good luck, I'd be curious how it works if you decide to try it.
Rich
Good luck, I'd be curious how it works if you decide to try it.
Rich
Also it was a solid roller and broke a lifter after only about a months worth of street use. Cost me another engine. Hydraulics may make less power, but I've not had problem one since going from solids to hydraulic and I'm making OK power.......plus sleeping at night cause it ain't broke.
On top of that, I'd like to see some verifible information that equal duration solid rollers make more power than hydrualics with the newer lifters like the Morels. So far no one has proved it to me.