LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Finally...track times

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Old 11-03-2007, 11:36 PM
  #121  
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i had a similar situation when my motor was installed,they moved my fuse box and they seemed to have pinched the PINK wire on the metal tray and as i was driving i hit a bump
and it finally grounded then KAAABOOOM!!!!!!would not start again so i did some searching and that is what i found! eventhough the problem was the short i still replaced the opti the crank position sensor and the icm
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Old 11-04-2007, 12:08 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by 96m6lt1
i had a similar situation when my motor was installed,they moved my fuse box and they seemed to have pinched the PINK wire on the metal tray and as i was driving i hit a bump
and it finally grounded then KAAABOOOM!!!!!!would not start again so i did some searching and that is what i found! eventhough the problem was the short i still replaced the opti the crank position sensor and the icm
Hmmm...I moved my fuse box when I re-painted under the hood.....

I'm gonna go check for pinched wires, BRB
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Old 11-04-2007, 12:22 AM
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I think its fixed

I couldn't see any wires pinched from the top, so I just unsnapped the fuse box from it's base and looked under it. It appeared that a couple of wires (one of them being pink, what are the odds?) had been pinched so I re-positioned everything, and snapped it back down. Confident that none of them are pinched any longer I figured "what the heck" and put a 10amp fuse in and cranked the car over....well now I have spark and the fuse didn't blow!
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Old 11-04-2007, 08:29 AM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by Colin91Z
I think its fixed

I couldn't see any wires pinched from the top, so I just unsnapped the fuse box from it's base and looked under it. It appeared that a couple of wires (one of them being pink, what are the odds?) had been pinched so I re-positioned everything, and snapped it back down. Confident that none of them are pinched any longer I figured "what the heck" and put a 10amp fuse in and cranked the car over....well now I have spark and the fuse didn't blow!
That's awesome man, glad it was something simple. I hate to say it but a lot of people jump to much more expensive parts instead of looking at the simple things first. I figured you checked the fuses but sometimes it slips your mind when something seems "severe" like your case.
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Old 11-05-2007, 09:32 AM
  #125  
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I got it all put back together yesterday morning and headed for the track...I got there, teched in, made one pass.....

Shifted @ 6700 rpm on this pass by the way....



I know that pic is hard to read so here's what it said:
60'----1.89
1/8----8.01@90.95mph
1/4----12.32@115.86

The launch wasn't very good (it spun pretty bad coming out of the hole, and spun in 2nd a little too) so I was confident that if I let it cool for a while and lowered my tire pressure a few psi, and did a longer burnout that I could better the first pass by a couple of tenths for sure

...and then when I went to make my second pass it wouldn't start

Now I have a no crank, no start situation. I even tried push starting it, it would fire that way for about 1 second and then die again like something killed the ignition.

I was so pissed last night when I got it home that I didn't even bother trying to find the problem. I guess I'll take a look tonight and see what I can find

I guess there's always next sunday.....

Last edited by Colin91Z; 11-05-2007 at 10:04 AM.
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Old 11-05-2007, 10:32 AM
  #126  
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check the fuse again, check any wires near the headers like the O2 wires
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Old 11-05-2007, 10:56 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by 97s10ondubs
check the fuse again, check any wires near the headers like the O2 wires
First thig I did was check that fuse again, it's fine. In fact, I checked ALL the fuses just to be sure, they all were good. And I made sure that no wires of any sort were burned or too close to the headers the other night when I was trying to diagnose my other problem.

This is a totally different problem than I was having previously, before it would crank but had no spark...and now it won't even crank. I'm suspecting a VATS problem seeing how it has killed the ignition system too (won't allow it to be push started)
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Old 11-05-2007, 11:21 AM
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Does the security light come one? When my VATS went bad it would eventually start once the security light would go off.
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Old 11-05-2007, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by speed_demon24
Does the security light come one? When my VATS went bad it would eventually start once the security light would go off.
Yeah comes on and flashes, but no amount of time affect it. I tried to start it this morning before I went to work and it did the same thing as yesterday.

I've been using the search funtion though, and I'm pretty sure that I had Bryan @ pcmforless diable the VATS in my PCM, I'm waiting on a email back from him to confirm this. If so, then if I were to permantly ground the yellow and black wire that goes to the TDR...It should start.
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Old 11-06-2007, 01:44 PM
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How long was the car down before the new motor? Did you have to jump the battery when you got it running for first time? I had a battery that hadnt been used for like 8 months, when I went to start the car I had to jump it... slowly lost charge after that. Probably lasted another few weeks/months, but what does the voltmeter say in the car?

Sounds like the starter is doing the work, but no spark or fuel? Sounds like it might be back to the spark issue.. just later in the chain? By adding a larger amp fuse, you may have shorted something out. I would check what else is run through that fuse you where having problems with and see what else is run through it. Once you find out what is running through it, try and see that they are all getting enough voltage (especially the starter if this is run through same wire).

Good times to see! I am running 12.5s@110 out here, so there is an 11 in it I would almost guarantee! Goodluck, I will keep reading and hoping I can help... glad to see another LE car running good
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Old 11-06-2007, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 96LT1TX
How long was the car down before the new motor? Did you have to jump the battery when you got it running for first time? I had a battery that hadnt been used for like 8 months, when I went to start the car I had to jump it... slowly lost charge after that. Probably lasted another few weeks/months, but what does the voltmeter say in the car?
Almost 2 years to the day. But I bought a brand new delco battery for it two days before I started it, and it's got a full charge still.
Originally Posted by 96LT1TX
Sounds like the starter is doing the work, but no spark or fuel? Sounds like it might be back to the spark issue.. just later in the chain? By adding a larger amp fuse, you may have shorted something out. I would check what else is run through that fuse you where having problems with and see what else is run through it. Once you find out what is running through it, try and see that they are all getting enough voltage (especially the starter if this is run through same wire).
Thanks for the ideas but this problem is unrelated to my earlier no spark problem. This is for sure a VATS problem. It's in the lock cylinder. My key works fine, just the lock cylinder won't read it. It'll be fixed tonight though
Originally Posted by 96LT1TX
Good times to see! I am running 12.5s@110 out here, so there is an 11 in it I would almost guarantee! Goodluck, I will keep reading and hoping I can help... glad to see another LE car running good
I'm pretty confident that I could have got a 12.0x or at least 12.1x's if I had got one more pass, so I think with a little more practice and some good air, it'll break 11s for sure as it sits.

Oh...I wouldn't classify my car as an LE car...Lloyd ported my intake...but Chris Bernd at Cylinder Head Specialties in Wellington, KS gets the credit for the heads

Thanks again for all the suggestions, and stay tuned cause I'll be going back to the track this sunday to try again

Last edited by Colin91Z; 11-06-2007 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 11-07-2007, 01:29 AM
  #132  
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After mucho use of the "search" function, I determined that I must have a bad ignition lock cylinder causing my no crank, no start situation. Aparently it's pretty common for the little wires from the lock cylinder for the VATS to break. When they do, it causes the exact syptoms that my car had. Sure enough, I pulled my column apart and found that one of the wires had broken in two. So I replaced my lock cylinder and key tonight, and she fired right up!



Assuming nothing else goes wrong...I'll once again be headed to the track this Sunday to try for 11's
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Old 11-07-2007, 05:42 AM
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keep us posted!
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Old 11-07-2007, 09:17 AM
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Rock on!
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Old 11-07-2007, 09:56 AM
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Well you learn something every day. I did not know it was "common" for the wires to break. Anyway good info! Good luck on your hunt for the 11's N/A. I wish I was at that level. Come spring I hope to be there.
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